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Old 11-27-2007, 05:02 PM   #1
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I will be installing a Winegard crank up satellite dish in my 2003 Sightseer and will need to drill a 1 1/4" hole in the fiberglass roof. Anyone know what kind of hole saw bit I should use? Meaning how many teeth per inch is best for our type of roof.
Thanks, Greg
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Old 11-27-2007, 05:02 PM   #2
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I will be installing a Winegard crank up satellite dish in my 2003 Sightseer and will need to drill a 1 1/4" hole in the fiberglass roof. Anyone know what kind of hole saw bit I should use? Meaning how many teeth per inch is best for our type of roof.
Thanks, Greg
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Old 11-27-2007, 05:22 PM   #3
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I'm no expert, but as fiberglass turned to powder when drilled rather than makes shavings, I would think a fine tooth would work best.
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Old 11-27-2007, 06:15 PM   #4
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I've not drilled the f/glass roof on the moho but have drilled several boat hulls. I've always used the same hole saw as used for cutting wood. Never had any problems.
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Old 11-27-2007, 06:26 PM   #5
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Most any hole saw will work. I have used DeWalt. I always drill a pilot hole with an 1/8" bit and drill half way thru from top with hole saw and then finish from the bottom. Make sure you drill the hole perpendicular to the roof.
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Old 11-27-2007, 06:56 PM   #6
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I would think a fine tooth saw would give a smoother cut.
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Old 11-28-2007, 12:14 AM   #7
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Quote:
I will be installing a Winegard crank up satellite dish in my 2003 Sightseer and will need to drill a 1 1/4" hole in the fiberglass roof. Anyone know what kind of hole saw bit I should use? Meaning how many teeth per inch is best for our type of roof.
Thanks, Greg
Any hole saw with a 3 inch depth of cut should do. Just call Winnebago first and verify the location. Cut the headliner with a sharp knife first and be careful not to snag it. You will most likely have to drill from both sides and need to put a pilot hole all the way through first to help make sure everthing will line up.
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Old 11-28-2007, 02:28 AM   #8
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Hmmm. I'm getting ready to do this exact thing, I was going to use a paddle bit. Your idea might be better.

Let us know how you make out and any tips. My 2008 has a sticker on the roof indicating the exact place to drill. I was wondering about the elevation box and how to install it.

I assume we'll find the RG6 that they ran...I'm going with dual RG6 since we use a DVR.

Keep us posted. Steve
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Old 11-28-2007, 03:34 AM   #9
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A flat bit wouldn't work well, they are meant for boring wood. A quality hole saw is best. The cheap ones meant to do a variety of diameters are probably the worst. The ones with the built in mandrel are best.
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Old 11-28-2007, 04:15 AM   #10
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On my 2003 Suncruiser I did that. Your basic fine tooth holes saw works best. There was a decal on the roof marking the location with a "drill here" type label. Note that there is RG6 coax as well as a power and ground wire in there. Be careful to adjust your hole saw's centering bit so that it doesn't protrude excessively from the saw or it may snag the wires. Push very carefully near the end of the drilling (Winnebago fiberglass is very thin so it happens FAST) so that you don't punch through at the end and damage anything underneath.
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Old 11-28-2007, 04:30 AM   #11
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Belgique:

SNIP

I was wondering about the elevation box and how to install it.

Keep us posted. Steve </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Regarding the elevation display box.
The dealer that installed mine installed it on the ceiling between the elevation crank stuff and the TV.
I understand there is also a box that fits in a rectangle cut into a cabinet sort of like a wall outlet.

The elevation box circuit box can operate from an internal nine volt battery or can be wired to a 12 volt dc supply.
For ease of installation the dealer chose to use a nine volt battery. The problem with that is the battery doesn't last long - maybe a couple of months. It uses some power even when not turned on.
Winegard says to use a clean source of dc voltage without transients.
I am not sure exactly what "clean" means to them.
From a conversation with a Winegard customer service guy, apparently the circuitry is not designed to handle the nasty automotive electrical environment.

Being a cautious sort I built a small nine volt regulator circuit using an LM7809 regulator IC and a couple of capacitors. It will regulate the 12 volts dc down to nine volts and provide transient protection.

I plan to create a tunnel through the foam in the ceiling from the display box to above the TV and run a wire over to the Winegard amplifier panel in the cabinet above the passenger to pick up the 12 volt dc there. The tunnel will only have to be about six inches long so I don't think it will be too tough to make.
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Old 11-28-2007, 05:34 AM   #12
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Did the exact same thing on my previous coach. As others have indicated a fine tooth bit with mandrel will easily drill through the fiberglass. Be advised , the fiberglass is very thin (maybe 1/8"-3/16") and you will punch through very quickly so go slowly and do not try to go all the way through the ceiling. A pilot hole to start would be best with someone inside to let you know when you have punched through.

On my RV there was a decal indicating where to drill and there was supposed to be a coax cable with groung wire coiled up but it wasn't there. Had to remove front most ceiling panel to run the wiring but it really wasn't any hassle.

All in all a easy job, just go slowly and use a pilot bit. Good luck.
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Old 11-28-2007, 08:26 PM   #13
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I wonder if you have the measurements for the
installation hole. My marking is not on the roof and got no help from Winnabago.

Thanks, Jim
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Old 11-29-2007, 02:22 AM   #14
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by locoengr:
I wonder if you have the measurements for the
installation hole. My marking is not on the roof and got no help from Winnabago. Thanks, Jim </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Jim, I THINK the measurements are in one of the drawings in the collection that are sticky's at the top of the forum (maybe the one on antenna wiring?). I'm sure I saw it as being referenced to the back side of the nose cap and center line. I don't have time to look now but will later. Steve
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Old 11-29-2007, 02:36 PM   #15
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Thank you the reply, but I still can't find that
measurement. I have looked through all the files, checking to see.

Jim
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Old 11-30-2007, 05:04 AM   #16
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by locoengr:
Thank you the reply, but I still can't find that
measurement. I have looked through all the files, checking to see. Jim </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Jim, weather permitting, I'll measure mine since the decal of the drill point is new. The challenge will be figuring out the center line. I assume yours has a rubber ducky FM antenna which is on the center line so I'll measure from there....Again, weather permitting. Steve
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