Carpet dents - can you tell me what this means about the slide?

[Wetstuff]

One of our principal goals is to replace the carpet and linoleum and this is the first chance I have had to open the slide to take the measure of the job ahead... Hmmm. I cannot get my hands under the slide to feel what's there.. 'can't see either. Rollers or ____?

Hopefully, someone had plowed this field before and save me from doing something stupid. I would like to use that 'woven vinyl' marine carpeting by Infinity ..as I have all the tools and sewing machines to do the job.

https://infinitylwv.com

Thanks. Jim

2002, Sightseer 27

[ziaptrn]

The slide moves on what is generally called something like "glide strips". In short - smooth, plastic pieces that are slightly curved and convex-shape towards the carpet. In your photo, you can see the impressions in the carpet where they rest when the slide room is in.

If you go outside and look up from underneath the slide room while it is extended, sometimes you can see them - but it does depend somewhat on the particular slide that you have.

Most folks will likely say go right ahead with your planned carpet replacement. The slides work great over carpet, but many times when folks replace the carpet with vinyl or other solid floor covering, the 'glides' scratch/scrape/damage the new flooring.

We just replaced the carpet in ours with carpet tile (squares of carpet) and everything works fine. On the other hand, my brother just had his rig flooring re-done with vinyl planks. The installer who did the work made sure that my brother knows to place some carpet remnants under the glide path every time that the slide comes in to decrease the risk of scraping across the new flooring.

Not sure that I answered your question, but I do hope that this helps. I'm finishing up our carpet (binding the edges) today.

[Wetstuff]

'Did. I'm taking a miner's light underground to see. .Thanks, Zia. Do us all a favor and show how you are doing the binding. This kinda stuff is more fun for me than 'driving down a road'.

Jim

[ziaptrn]

Here is what I did....I can't claim originality, but I did a test piece first before the real thing. It worked great, but the hot glue really hurts if you get it on your hands. I'd recommend gloves for anyone else who may decide to try.

Here is the link for the Youtube where I learned about it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dLdESLLbu6k

I used binding from the sewing area at Walmart.

Here is a pic of the final result. Turned out nice, although the picture looks better than the real thing.

[Wetstuff]

That's pretty creative, John. (..he left the TV on?!) Next time —if you only need a little— take it to an automotive trim shop or marine canvas place. They can do it in minutes. We use a variety of 'folders' that feed walking foot machines. Sometimes carpets can be too thick, so call a carpet dealer and see if he has an installer that has a binding machine - theirs are portable.

Jim

[ziaptrn]

One of the down-sides to living 2 hours from pretty much anywhere is the absence of things like...automotive trim shops or marine service :-/ We love living in a rural area, but services can be lacking.
This is one of the reasons that we end up having service work done while 'on the road' for things that I can't do at home.
That being said - your suggestion is excellent and something of which I was unaware. We have had carpet remnants turned in to matching rugs by having them bound, but it was pricey and in a big city.
Thanks for the suggestion though- we may look in to that next time we travel!

[BobC]

If your rig is like my 2002 Itasca Suncruiser 35U, there will be a full-length plywood "ramp" about 4" deep under the slide at the wall (see link below). It's purpose is to raise the inboard edge of the slide when it is extended, "cocking" the slide so the weather strip is compressed at the top more than lower down. If you have this, you may be able to see it by looking from the outside underneath the extended slide by pulling back the bottom seal. It also may be visible as a hump in your old carpet inside your coach at the ends of your slide against the wall (ends are clearly visible when carpet and pad are removed).

My suggestion is that you not try to remove the carpet on top of this ramp but leave it in place. Just remove the carpet and pad up to the inboard edge of the extended slide (or slightly underneath the slide by angling your knife). Then butt your new floor up to the old carpet and cover the joint with an appropriately colored metal transition strip to keep the glide from messing up the edge of your new flooring.

My reasons for doing this are:

1. It preserves the pre-existing height of the lift provided by the carpet covered ramp so the top weather seal is appropriately compressed when the slide is extended. Your new floor will not be as thick as the old carpet and pad.

2. Removing the old carpet and pad from the top of the ramp is difficult at best since it's under the ramp and is stapled to the ramp. It's also easy to damage the plastic part of your glide (don't ask how I know this). If you do so, the glide could damage your new floor.

3. Your new floor will be thinner and leaving the carpet and pad in place on top of the ramp will mitigate the chances of depressions from the glide strip on your new flooring.

See this link for some photos (glide strip is on pg 2, ramp is on pg 3):

https://winnebagoind.com/resources/s...ut%20Rooms.pdf

[Wetstuff]

Big thanks, Bob. ...for the info and an important bookmark. I wonder if: you had a section of heavy sheet plastic you could place on the carpet just before bringing the slide in — could it provide a large, sacrificial bearing plate so the dents would not be visible?

I am dealing (externally) with the leaks and am on my fourth chemical to tackle the mold in the gel coat. Once I change the look from Orphan to Favorite Son, I am headed inside.

Jim

[BobC]

That would work for long-term storage but too inconvenient for camping. I'm probably going to insert another layer of carpet tile (or even another piece of 1/4" plywood between my first layer of carpet tile and the ramp from the outside. My new carpet is commercial grade carpet tile so it's pretty tough and only about 1/4" thick.

These older rigs need a lot of work to bring them up to Favorite Son status. Mold in the gelcoat doesn't sound like fun. But after we're done it's going to be fun to show off our work (at least I keep telling myself that).

I know what you mean about dealing with leaks. I had a leaky skylight to replace and which required me to repair the bathroom ceiling. I had to replace much of the plywood plus I replaced the fabric headliner with an FRP (fiberglass) panel from Lowes. I'm also using Eternabond to seal the roof fixtures, roof to sidewalls, front and back end-caps and over the windshield. You might want to check out my posting on IRV2 about caulking:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f84/caulk...nt-376721.html

Check your hydraulic hoses for leaks around the ferrules where the fittings are swaged on to the hoses. HWH had a problem with defective hoses in the early 2000s and I had to replace all of mine on the front slide out.