basement heat pump problem

[Fossilhog]

If you do a search on my screen name I've had numerous failures with my basement A/C all requiring new components, all caused by low voltage. My latest failure was caused buy a loose burnt wire going into the transfer switch. Just found it on a whim. Also I added the Hughes transformer as a booster to help out.

[AFChap]

Don't know how recent the previous postings are

Feb 2007 ...

When we turn it on you can hear the outside blower come on, then the first compressor, a few seconds pass and it sounds as if the second one starts and then it all shuts down

I would suspect the start capacitor/wiring on the first stage compressor. You could open the hinged door on the side of the coach, then remove the cover over the electrical connections toward the rear of the unit, and check for burned wiring, etc.

[simbil]

Originally Posted by Fossilhog

If you do a search on my screen name I've had numerous failures with my basement A/C all requiring new components, all caused by low voltage. My latest failure was caused buy a loose burnt wire going into the transfer switch. Just found it on a whim. Also I added the Hughes transformer as a booster to help out.

Is your autoformer 30A or 50A?

[Fossilhog]

Originally Posted by simbil

Is your autoformer 30A or 50A?

30 Amp

[ernied7]

My unit did burn up the board due to low voltage. Dealer replaced PC board and re-installed the unit. Now have noise. Dealer says it is all OK. Wife and he don't agree!!!
You can see the cage under unit. Has anyone ever taken off the screen and tightened the cage?
Unit does not appear level, as water comes out under fan, not through the rubber spout forward of squirrel cage. Could this be causing the noise?
All help is appreciated.

[Fossilhog]

And I presume the rig is level? There shouldn't be noise like that.

[KIX]

The rattling noise may be the squirrel cage blower (not the motor). the newer squirrel cage blower is plastic. the older metal ones eventually loosen and cause rattling.

Compressor relays may be the cause of a non-starting compressor. Open the electrical panel at the unit and look in the top RH corner for the two rectangular modules. They each will have several wires attached via spade connectors. The top one is #1 and the next one down is the #2 compressor.

If you are not familiar with working around capacitors be aware that they store electricity and can shock you even if the power is disconnected. Learn how to discharge before you get "bit".

A contributor to this forum wrote a very good article with pictures about removal and repair of the Coleman-Mack unit. Search for "Dunner".

[slick60]

Wooooo...to much info for me. Call Apalachee RV in Auburn Georgia. 770-868-0999
These folks do service only and have a great reputation. Speak to Tracey.