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Old 06-17-2008, 01:07 PM   #1
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Location: Fresno, CA
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Update on our basement AC problem. No books or manuals in the coach (we bought it used). So obtained the model/seriel # of the heat pump from Winnebago and contacted RVP from your suggestions. Also downloaded all the manuals, wiring diagrams, etc. from the site. They have been very helpful and we're trouble shoot 1 item at a time. So first question, I went home at lunch to take off the outside cover to to the access panel. RVP said it would be a louvered door on the passenger side. Absolutely there is a louvered door at the last panel to the coach. You can see a metal cover screen through the louvers. How to you get the panel open? No locked key hole, no toggles to turn and don't feel any screw heads when I run my hands around the bottom of the panel. Any ideas? Am I on the wrong side? Oh, the reason he wants me to take the panel off is because when Gen on and thermostat in cool position, he wants to know if there is a green light on the PC board. DiAnna
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Old 06-17-2008, 01:07 PM   #2
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Update on our basement AC problem. No books or manuals in the coach (we bought it used). So obtained the model/seriel # of the heat pump from Winnebago and contacted RVP from your suggestions. Also downloaded all the manuals, wiring diagrams, etc. from the site. They have been very helpful and we're trouble shoot 1 item at a time. So first question, I went home at lunch to take off the outside cover to to the access panel. RVP said it would be a louvered door on the passenger side. Absolutely there is a louvered door at the last panel to the coach. You can see a metal cover screen through the louvers. How to you get the panel open? No locked key hole, no toggles to turn and don't feel any screw heads when I run my hands around the bottom of the panel. Any ideas? Am I on the wrong side? Oh, the reason he wants me to take the panel off is because when Gen on and thermostat in cool position, he wants to know if there is a green light on the PC board. DiAnna
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Old 06-17-2008, 03:30 PM   #3
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You will have to crawl underneath and look up on the front and rear flange of the louvered panel. You will then see the screws, the panel should hinge up after removing the screws. Then you will see some panels on top of the ac where all the good stuff is.

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Old 06-17-2008, 03:39 PM   #4
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Not sure if yours is the same, but one my Adventurer there is one screw underneath on the back edge and the other screw is accessed by opening the propane door.
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Old 06-17-2008, 11:53 PM   #5
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DiAnna-Jeff:
Update on our basement AC problem. No books or manuals in the coach (we bought it used). So obtained the model/seriel # of the heat pump from Winnebago and contacted RVP from your suggestions. Also downloaded all the manuals, wiring diagrams, etc. from the site. They have been very helpful and we're trouble shoot 1 item at a time. So first question, I went home at lunch to take off the outside cover to to the access panel. RVP said it would be a louvered door on the passenger side. Absolutely there is a louvered door at the last panel to the coach. You can see a metal cover screen through the louvers. How to you get the panel open? No locked key hole, no toggles to turn and don't feel any screw heads when I run my hands around the bottom of the panel. Any ideas? Am I on the wrong side? Oh, the reason he wants me to take the panel off is because when Gen on and thermostat in cool position, he wants to know if there is a green light on the PC board. DiAnna </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

DiAnna,

That is the beauty of owning a Winnebago go to the online manual at:

http://www.winnebagoind.com/service/submenu/2002.htm

The page with the breakdown on the AC louver shows it on the right rear. You will have to lie on your back and you will find a metal plate with a phillips screw on each end of the panel attached to the steel bin frames. The front one may require the compartment door next to it to be opened to access the screw. You will have to prop the louvered panel up as it has no support rod.

The Access Panel will be about 8 to 10 inches wide toward the back just like it shows in your manual.
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Old 06-18-2008, 08:09 AM   #6
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NeilV. Thanks. exactly what I needed. Printed off all the information re: AC and if we can't trouble shoot then my maintenance AC person at my office will need the info when he looks at it.
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Old 06-19-2008, 12:51 PM   #7
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My '02 Itasca has had the habit of occasionally blowing the second compressor 20A breaker for 3 years now. I was in the midwest and ran into some low voltage AC condx and thats when it began.

I figured the popping of the breaker under the low AC weakened the breaker. I bought a new breaker 20A-50A-50A-20A for the panel and finally got around to installing it.

The incentive for this was the fat that the outside blower fan began making noise. Well, anyway, I replaced the breaker but NO JOY. The unit cools and heats as it should but after about 15-20 minutes, the breaker still pops.

I have an appointment with a dealer next week and hope it is nothing serious.

But, any suggestions would be muchly appreciated.
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Old 06-21-2008, 04:38 AM   #8
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hamguy,
If my understanding of the wiring diagram is correct, there are only two components on the 20 amp breaker for the second circuit. The #2 compressor and the outdoor blower HI Speed circuit.

Since you have been having a noise issue with the outdoor blower that would be my first suspect if the blower bearing is going bad.

Another culprit could be the #2 compressor run capacitor. You could try swapping out the run caps & see if the breaker still pops.
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Old 06-22-2008, 03:56 AM   #9
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I had a similar problem on my 02 Brave. Turned out that the generator outputs were reversed (I guess at the factory) where connected to the coach. Thus the 20 amp side wasn't just running the second AC - it was running the main AC and the rest of the coach (30A load) and popping the breaker. Fix was simple, swapped the connections. Might be the same problem? - Tony

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by hamguy:
My '02 Itasca has had the habit of occasionally blowing the second compressor 20A breaker for 3 years now. I was in the midwest and ran into some low voltage AC condx and thats when it began.

I figured the popping of the breaker under the low AC weakened the breaker. I bought a new breaker 20A-50A-50A-20A for the panel and finally got around to installing it.

The incentive for this was the fat that the outside blower fan began making noise. Well, anyway, I replaced the breaker but NO JOY. The unit cools and heats as it should but after about 15-20 minutes, the breaker still pops.

I have an appointment with a dealer next week and hope it is nothing serious.

But, any suggestions would be muchly appreciated. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
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Old 06-22-2008, 01:24 PM   #10
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Thanks for the info. Helps me analyse. We are now setting in Idaho Falls with the AC running full blast, both compressors, hi speed fans and nary a hiccup. Air input to the AC is ~83 and outlet is 58/9!

I am baffled. Of course, so is the AC.
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Old 06-23-2008, 05:28 PM   #11
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">My '02 Itasca has had the habit of occasionally blowing the second compressor 20A breaker for 3 years now. I was in the midwest and ran into some low voltage AC condx and thats when it began. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Low voltage to any AC unit is hard on the AC, the wiring, ... That's one reason we have a SurgeGuard which throws us offline if the shorepower voltage drops too far. AC is the biggest reason why. It also 'looks' for shorepower wiring errors. (No, I don't work for them)
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