Atwood HWH removal

lthrnk · 11-15-2008, 02:08 PM

I have tried, unsuccessfully, to get to the check valves on the back of the HWH. I thought that I had seen a post, with pictures, by someone who had pulled their unit, but can't find it.

Any help greatly appreciated.

lthrnk · 11-15-2008, 02:08 PM

I have tried, unsuccessfully, to get to the check valves on the back of the HWH. I thought that I had seen a post, with pictures, by someone who had pulled their unit, but can't find it.

Any help greatly appreciated.

skigramp · 11-15-2008, 03:54 PM

I am not sure if we have the same hot water heater ... I have an '04 39W Journey ...

The check valve on my hot water heater malfunctioned in Jan '08. There is a "door" that allows access for the removal replacement without removing the hot water heater.

As I recall you remove a couple of screws and the metal door / cover allows access ..

John_Canfield · 11-15-2008, 04:21 PM

We had two bad check valves on our water heater. Winnie factory service replaced them last summer and I was curious about access to these. The tech said there is a door under the water heater that allows access the the rear where the plumbing is located.

lthrnk · 11-16-2008, 02:50 AM

The door is actually a steel plate on the bottom, held by four screws. There is also a plastic hatch cover that unscrews on the back, about 6" in diameter. The motoraid hoses and fittings are below the check valves and need to be moved to get access and it is still a PITA to try and reach the check valves. The upper check valve is really a reach, with no room to work on it.

Maybe an Elf with a little wrench could get it.

jdsr · 11-16-2008, 03:18 PM

I believe the one your looking for is troth. If you do a search on troth and email him I believe he will email you the pic. He sent them to me. Good pic to

MaverickBBD · 11-17-2008, 02:58 AM

The plate on the bottom let's you see them and disconnect the motoraid hoses. I seem to get the best access through the plastic hatch while looking in from down below. I totally agree with lthrnk that it is a real pain. I am chasing a drip from the fittings and it is driving me nuts trying to tighten it. I am thinking of taking out the whole HWH and starting over.

Cousin Ed · 11-17-2008, 05:14 AM

I gave up trying to change mine. I tried from the bottom access and from the side. I saw myself not having any water 3K miles from home. It was the best $100 I have spent in a while. The repairman (Lance's RV Repair, Newport, OR) just reached around the side of the WH and did it by feel. It took him about 1/2 hour. If I did it, I would have taken 5 or 8 hours and might have broken everything. It is a tight spot!

stearn · 11-17-2008, 02:56 PM

I had to call for help !! I did watch the service person change my check valve. He did pull the tank, sad to watch, he never did get the tank pulled (he tried)!! The faulty check valve was at the top of the tank. He finally after alot of grunting ,and growning got it changed. When he tried to put things back together I could not take any more ! I said good enough, I will finish later! When going over what needed to be done to get things back to normal, I found an access plate to the rear of the HWT. Take 5 and check it out, then decide if you want a stranger to change the $10.00 VALVE for $166.78. Another lesson learned!

NeilV · 11-18-2008, 12:10 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by lthrnk:
I have tried, unsuccessfully, to get to the check valves on the back of the HWH. I thought that I had seen a post, with pictures, by someone who had pulled their unit, but can't find it.

Any help greatly appreciated. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I looked into pulling mine but with the way it was caulked in with a highly adheasive caulk along with the thin sheet metal of the mount it would have been harder than lying on my back and working with mirrors. I really didn't want to make my 5 cent problem into a $500 one.

troth · 11-18-2008, 11:23 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I believe the one your looking for is troth. If you do a search on troth and email him I believe he will email you the pic. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I could be wrong, but Journeys & Horizons already have an access panel beneath the water heater... -Others like Suncruisers, Adventurers, Braves, Voyages, etc. do not have an access panel and it's a bit tough to get the water heater out. But it's certainly a D.I.Y. project that will take you 3 hours max. to pull it, switch/remove the check valves, replace electric element, and put it all back together again. I have pics of what I did; it wasn't hard, just a bit time-consuming.
If you're interested, send me a PM with your regular e-mail so I can reply with a Word doc attachment.

Jackm · 11-18-2008, 08:22 PM

As I recall from another thread, most people don't replace the check valve for two reasons. 1) The system works fine without them and 2) It's a real hassle to replace them when they fail (again). Therefore, you may want to research this issue before you install another valve.

Jack

lthrnk · 11-19-2008, 02:37 AM

If and when I get these check valves out, they are going back without their guts. I am in Floria, and even though we travel quite a bit, this coach will never be winterized.

stearn · 11-19-2008, 04:10 AM

When my check valve went bad the water from the hot side quit flowing we tried all fausets. I think taking the plastic guts out would be the way to go,so it can't plug the flow.
We were on a "shakedown" vacation with our new to us MH when this happened.

Jeeperrmartin · 11-19-2008, 06:04 AM

I had no choice but to replace mine. The water had slowed to a pace that it would take many minutes to fill a sink, a shower was out of the question.

Don't over tighten when you put it back together. It will leak. Voice of experience.

jdsr · 11-19-2008, 08:28 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by troth:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I believe the one your looking for is troth. If you do a search on troth and email him I believe he will email you the pic. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I could be wrong, but Journeys & Horizons already have an access panel beneath the water heater... -Others like Suncruisers, Adventurers, Braves, Voyages, etc. do not have an access panel and it's a bit tough to get the water heater out. But it's certainly a D.I.Y. project that will take you 3 hours max. to pull it, switch/remove the check valves, replace electric element, and put it all back together again. I have pics of what I did; it wasn't hard, just a bit time-consuming.
If you're interested, send me a PM with your regular e-mail so I can reply with a Word doc attachment.

</div></BLOCKQUOTE> BTW good pic, thanks

wagonmaster2 · 11-19-2008, 07:51 PM

The statement that the valves are there to keep anti-freeze from filling the WH during winterizing puzzels me. Isn't this the purpose of the by-pass valve? I'm really confused as to the purpose of having these flimsy valves and why they can't just be taken out.
Wagonmaster2
2004 Meridian 36G

troth · 11-20-2008, 03:55 AM

Wagonmaster, Winnebago has created a plumbing system which requires the use of only one manually operated valve, your "Bypass" valve in the water heater or utility compartment. This in theory will always work fine as long as the check valves on the backside of the water heater are functional. But therein lies the problem: the check valves seem to fail (lock open, lock close, or somewhere in between restricting flow) and then the "system" will not allow you to winterize properly. If a check valve becomes nonfunctional, it can let pink get into the water heater and you'll soon be wondering "where is all the pink going to" while you're watching the pump suck it out of gallon jugs during winterizing.
So there's a lot to be said for the "peace of mind" eliminating the check valves and installing the good 'ol two-valve bypass hose system on the back of the water heater.

My 2 cents.

Izzyblueye · 11-20-2008, 04:06 AM

Good Advice!

Pubtym · 11-20-2008, 05:38 AM

I have a 2006 Suncruiser 35U with a hotwater check valve that is stuck in the restricted flow positio (30-40 %). I have an oval acces plastic panel where I can access the valve..it's a reach up for short arms...but workable. Using a 10 inch crecent wrench..I was unable to get enough torque leverage to unscrew the brass check valve.

Questions: First, what tool is best for that upward reach to lever the valve loose?
Second, I read where this valve was common plumbing stock ($7-10) at most hardware stores. Just returned from Home Depot in Ft Pierce, FL. No luck. Other check valves in brass...no 5/8 inch with double male screw ends. What is the technical nomenclature I need to ask for in hardware store to get the right type-size valve.

Thanks,

Pubtym