attaching moulding to corian

unclescratch · 08-26-2021, 01:33 PM

I acquired some wood molding to match what is used between some of the cabinets on my Class A. Basically a top and bottom piece with small wooden pedestals space 4-inches apart between the two major rails. The older (LOL, my age !) dudes @Home Depot suggested I attach it to the (Corian ?) countertop using Liquid Nails. Any thoughts pro/con on attempting this??

**Eagle5** · 08-26-2021, 02:27 PM

Hi Uncle Scratch,
I believe Liquid Nails will work just fine. Another product which I also like is JB Weld, and I believe it might be just a touch stronger. I guess the big issue is keeping it clamped in-place for a day while things cure.
Eagle5

unclescratch · 08-29-2021, 04:57 AM

After reading the labels I dismissed the liquid nails because it was not recommended for glass, ceramics, etc. I opted instead for a Loctite epoxy. It sets-up in a minute so you don't need to clamp for a long time. Smells some for a day or so. Seems to hold well. Time will tell.

BobC · 08-29-2021, 02:33 PM

Good choice. Epoxy is what's use when installing and joining pieces of Corian and other composite countertops.

Bumps · 09-01-2021, 04:41 PM

Use super glue and clamps. /ken

NeilV · 09-01-2021, 08:18 PM

I would stay clear of dark colored adhesives and anything with a chemical base identified by Corian as causing lightening or darkening issues. A clear epoxy rated for plastics may be a good choice. I would not be inclined to use a JB Weld Product rated for metal unless the gray color actually works for you.

If its something that you may need to remove for maintenance then you would not want anything that would create a strong chemical or physical bond.

In 2003 on a Gas Chassis there is a likelihood that it won't be Corian but Formica Surell and it may likely be the 1/8" thick materiel over a foam core on the counters to keep the weight down so anything you permanently affix should be done so it won't be able to torque the top material causing a blowout. Only the outside edging will be solid with the rest of the countertop being 1/8" Surell over foam board with some form of backer board behind it to make up a stress skin panel. The dinette table top and seat bottoms are also usually constructed the same way but using regular Formica (or similar laminate) with a brown backer underneath to form the stress skin panels.

unclescratch · 09-02-2021, 06:49 AM

Neilv, Thank You for that informative comment. After a few days the smell of that Loctite epoxy has gone away and there seems to be a good bond. Wife is happy w/the railing.

Rick 99037 · 09-03-2021, 07:17 AM

Just my opinion. I hate Super Glue. When it works, it's great, but sometimes, for no apparent reason it just doesn't. Then you need to get it cleaned up, to glue with something else.
I've never had that happen with epoxy's. So that's my go-to adhesive for non-wood products. And there are some pretty quick brands for their initial setup.