Quote:
Originally Posted by Tdin
Brand new to this group, but have same problem in my '96 Brave.
Can you clarify how you replaced the 1/8" roof plywood?
Did you cut strips approximating the damaged laminate you removed and glue to the underlying foam around the opening edges, or what? Am assuming that still leaves a bit of structural weakness at the repair, but gives one something to screw the new skylight to.
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Around the skylight, the water-damaged top pieces (between the foam and fiberglass) pulled out and only extended five or six inches beyond the cut-out (there was probably a joint there between two sheets of plywood). I cut matching pieces, slathered them with water-proof glue (I can't remember what I used) and clamped everything together. Most of the damage was at the forward edge and there's an aluminum structural member close by so I don't think there was much structural weakening. You can pretty much tell by grabbing it and testing it's strength. If you were really concerned about structural integrity, you could through-bolt the skylight and, hopefully, the inner skylight would hide the extra hardware.
The rest of the damage was pretty much confined to the bottom layer of plywood, which was completely accessible once the headliner was removed. For that I used a spray contact cement which I also used for the new fiberglass panel ceiling. I installed the new ceiling in two pieces with the joint above the edge of the shower, using a 1/8" Masonite pattern that I made. I did this alone but it will be much easier to do with a helper. You can get plastic corner moulding and joint moulding to match the panels at Lowes. I believe Home Depot carries similar products. I also used the fiberglass paneling on the walls above the shower. I thought about doing the bathroom walls as well but didn't do it.
I also used Eternabond tape to cover the flange of the new skylight with Winnebago's specified sealant (not Dicor) under the flange. The current commercial name for the specified sealant is Manus Bond 75 AM.