Another Hood Bracket Problem

FLYTYER · 05-22-2007, 07:33 AM

I discovered that one of the brackets on the hood is loose. It looks like the epoxy did not hold due to the bracket not being properly prepped, that is removing the paint and scuffing the surface. The other bracket is also loose but still attached.

I did a search on this problem and there have been a number of these problems reported.

I spoke with Winnebago Customer Service and they will authorize an out of warranty good will repair using a "new glue."

There may be applications where an epoxy glue has merit, but with the hood assembly to rely on glue for attachment is a stretch of my mind to accept it.

Has anyone found a better way?

I am ready to drill some holes !!

FLYTYER · 05-22-2007, 07:33 AM

I discovered that one of the brackets on the hood is loose. It looks like the epoxy did not hold due to the bracket not being properly prepped, that is removing the paint and scuffing the surface. The other bracket is also loose but still attached.

I did a search on this problem and there have been a number of these problems reported.

I spoke with Winnebago Customer Service and they will authorize an out of warranty good will repair using a "new glue."

There may be applications where an epoxy glue has merit, but with the hood assembly to rely on glue for attachment is a stretch of my mind to accept it.

Has anyone found a better way?

I am ready to drill some holes !!

Y-Guy · 05-22-2007, 08:32 AM

My grill came loose, same thing the glue didn't hold. I was none to thrilled to find this so when I took it in I encouraged the dealer to not just use more glue. The used the glue and added 2 screws as I recall to hold the grill in place as well. If you have an idea of how to do it better talk with the dealer, time involved really shouldn't be enough that they or Winnebago will squabble over it I'd think

FLYTYER · 05-22-2007, 09:44 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by FLYTYER:
I discovered that one of the brackets on the hood is loose. It looks like the epoxy did not hold due to the bracket not being properly prepped, that is removing the paint and scuffing the surface. The other bracket is also loose but still attached.

I did a search on this problem and there have been a number of these problems reported.

I spoke with Winnebago Customer Service and they will authorize an out of warranty good will repair using a "new glue."

There may be applications where an epoxy glue has merit, but with the hood assembly to rely on glue for attachment is a stretch of my mind to accept it.

Has anyone found a better way?

I am ready to drill some holes !! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I have an inside contact at Winnebago who sent me the following info...

"Secondary mechanical fasteners were added to all of our hood designs in the Spring of 2005 for implementation in 2006 model year coaches. Our pull testing indicates that the epoxy works well if the process is followed. However, due to sporadic failures we have taken the position that a mechanical fastener is necessary"

My dealer and I are going to have a interesting discussion...and yes I have a plan to add 2 1/4 inch SS bolts and hardware on both brackets. I have made a template for hole locations.

CC38EL · 05-22-2007, 10:56 AM

FLYTYER....here's a link to another thread concerning my door coming off. I did indeed use bolts and lock washers when I put it back together.

http://irv2.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/2486094452/m/...071006561#7071006561

skigramp · 05-22-2007, 11:43 AM

My front hood and rear hood have both come loose ...

The rear is fastened with stainless steel carriage bolts (by the dealer) ... I "secured" the front myself ... I found 3/16" stainless round headed steel bolts (with hex indentations) ... I put a nylon washer under the head ... the paint shows no signs of cracking or chipping after more than a year

fun time · 05-22-2007, 03:53 PM

skigramp, any chance of posting some pics of what you did? I like what you said and sounds like a great solution. Thanks in advance.

Petro · 05-22-2007, 05:24 PM

FLYTYER;
I had the same problem. I used JB Weld and made a brace to hold the bracket tight until it set and dried. It has held so far. I am careful with it though.

Don

skigramp · 05-22-2007, 06:43 PM

My rig is in the storage garage ... it will be a couple of days before I go out there again ... but I will take some pictures and post them ...

FLYTYER · 05-23-2007, 07:39 AM

Since we are about to leave on 5 day trout fishing trip here in the mountains of PA, I could not wait for my dealer to respond to a phone call. So I used my little template and C clamp to hold the brackets. marked the holes and drilled. I put 2 bolts in each bracket. Now the hood is secure and will not fall off.

As an additional note I found that the hood latches were installed 180 degrees out of the correct position. This leads me to think that maybe this allowed the hood to be not as secure and the extra vibration is what broke the bracket loose.

skigramp · 06-22-2007, 11:27 AM

Sorry that it took so long to get these pictures ... I had a little problem with the photos on my computer ... finally got things straightened out ...

picture of front

close up

Mutha · 06-22-2007, 12:51 PM

Skigramp, nice job on the hood bolt modification.

Not only did you solve the problem, but the bolts look as though they could have been installed during the manufacture of the coach.

Glenn

vicsryd · 06-22-2007, 02:32 PM

Remember the panel itself is 'glued' on. Same goes for rear engine access panel. I recently saw two Jourey's (one '04 and one '05) where both front and back came apart. They now have 8 bolts each front and rear both in the body and in the panels themselves

Dave from MN · 06-23-2007, 05:14 PM

I had a body shop fix mine. He glued & riveted the bracket. Also he riveted the other side. The heads on the rivets are black & look like they were made to be there. The glue Winnebago used was more like a caulk than a glue! Total price to fix mine was $50.

SCVJeff · 06-23-2007, 09:10 PM

In preparation for mine falling off..... I used to have a couple of cans of an Epoxy called Metalox (I think) that is an industrial Epoxy that's so hard it can be drilled and tapped. My dad turned me onto it in the early 80's. He said the guys in Palmdale used to make shims out of it in the Shuttle assembly plant to level 100T presses, etc. We've used it at work as well on prettymuch everything and I can't think of a failure in 15+ years.

If that stuff will bond to the fiberglass it'll never come loose.

Mikeso · 11-13-2007, 06:37 AM

I'm having the same issue with the rear cover. The factory epoxy came loose. Took the cover off and tried a different type but that didn't hold either. Right now it's being secured in place with zip ties until I find a better method. Really don't wanto drill holes to fix it.

Hikerdogs · 11-13-2007, 09:46 AM

The grill on our Adventurer is held in place by 2 latches and a bracket behind each headlight assembly. Several years ago the right side bracket came unglued. We carried it in a storage compatrment until early this year when I heard about an adhesive others have used with success.
I bought a kit of SEM brand #39537 Weld-Bond Adhesive at a local body shop supply house and reattached the bracket. So far all is well. This summer we went over 12,000 miles through Canada and Alaska and it's still holding fine.

Some may say 12,000 miles isn't enough of a test but on the roads we were driving I would compare it to 30,000 miles in the lower 48. It got a real test on the Top of The World Highway. It was 110 miles of bone jaring, teeth rattling gravel washboard.

The kit consists of 2 tubes (hooked together to fit into a special applicator gun) of mixible adhesive and 2 mixing tips. It sells for about $47.00. The "special applicator" costs another $95.00 but you can easily adapt a standard caulking gun to do the job.

I unscrewed the round plunger plate from my caulking gun, made a flat plate with 2 holes (I believe 1 1/2" on center) and a third hole directly on center (where the original plunger plate attached). I screwed 2 carriage bolts in the outer holes with the heads facing towards the tube openings. Then assembeled the plate to the plunger, slid the adhesive tube in place and went to work. The special tip assures both adhesives sre well mixed as they are applied.

The product is meant to be used by body shops when they need to glue plastic outer panels to metal framework. The most common applications are for door skins and fenders. It's easy to work with and has a working time of 60 minutes in 70*F weather.

The whole process took only a couple hours including removing and preparing the grill, fabricating the bracket, and applying the adhesive. I let the glued assembly sit in the garage over night just to be sure there wouldn't be any problems.

JC2 · 04-24-2008, 09:47 AM

When checking the MH today for an upcoming weekender, I discovered the drivers side bracket on the hood latch is loose and separating from the infamous epoxy glue. Talked with Winnebago today and they agreed to foot the bill for having it fixed at our dealer next Wed. I'm going to request that additional screws/rivets be installed along with new epoxy. How can I secure the hood so if it finally breaks/separates, it won't fall on the ground. Could be interesting if one was moving if it happened.

Beabop · 04-24-2008, 05:54 PM

Right now our rear panel is being held on with gorilla glue, we hope it holds until we get to the factory in June. Maybe they will do a good will for us.

Carnles · 04-24-2008, 06:20 PM

I had the same problem...maybe not as drastic as some noted here because my hood didn't fall completely off. It was repaired at Camping World under warranty with just the fiberglass epoxy and so far is as good as new. Hopefully I won't have to go the stainless steel bolts in the future.