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Old 06-23-2012, 03:01 PM   #1
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another basement air problem

Howdy all. New to RVing and loving it. Wife and I bought a class a last November. It is a 2001 Winnebago Adventurer 37g. She discovered iRV2 forums a few months ago and I have learned a lot from everyone.Thank you all for advice and nifty tricks. I have the coleman mach basement air. The second compressor will not kick in, although it tries, it only pulls 16-18 amps on generator. I have checked #2 comp. relay and it works fine. The run capacitor however is showing 240v. the run capacitor for #1 comp. is showing 110v.Turned system off and tried again. #2 cap. shows 110v before it tries to kick in, afterward it shows 240v. Does this mean a bad run capacitor or a bad compressor. Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Old 06-23-2012, 03:37 PM   #2
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you say 16-18 on generator. what about when you are plugged in to shore power? my 2002 35u does that on the gen, but when plugged in both comp. kick in an pulls 25-27 amps. have been going to research if that is how it is supposed to work, but have not had the time. my shore power is 30 amp and gen is a 5500.
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Old 06-23-2012, 04:27 PM   #3
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nope. not on shore power either. somewhere in the paper work i found in the sachel it says it will work on generator. It tries to kick in, you can here here it bog down then a click like a selenoid then outside fan comes back and indoor fan speeds back up. have a free standing ac from sam's club i tried. venting is a problem especially if i were going down the road. would rather have ac work as designed so started testing. generator is also 5500. generator showed 16-18 amps with basement air, 29-30 with free standing added.
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Old 06-23-2012, 04:41 PM   #4
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since you hear it try to start tells me there is power there, so maybe a hard start capacitor would help you. I do not have one but I read about them either on this forim or else the coleman site. they are easy to replace.
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Old 06-23-2012, 07:40 PM   #5
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yes there is power. how do i check start capacitor without just replacing it and see if that fixes it?
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Old 06-23-2012, 08:19 PM   #6
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read this thread http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/base...s-94144-2.html also check out this site Airxcel | RV Products Tech Info they are not that expensive and worth the gamble. keep us posted.
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Old 06-25-2012, 03:58 AM   #7
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well with no way to get start capacitor on a sunday i swapped #1 and #2 start capacitors with each other and the results did not change. #2 comp still not kicking in. correction in what i stated earlier though-running volt meter leads on line in (live wire) and #2 capacitor (as ground) shows 110v before trying to start. after trying to start it shows 240v, even with ground lead on ground block and live lead on one side of run capacitor ( purple wire that goes to comp,red wire that goes to start cap). did not have time to switch run cap.to see if that would start #2 comp.,had to get rv back in storage so will have to try again next weekend.
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:55 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dammitsass View Post
well with no way to get start capacitor on a sunday i swapped #1 and #2 start capacitors with each other and the results did not change. #2 comp still not kicking in. correction in what i stated earlier though-running volt meter leads on line in (live wire) and #2 capacitor (as ground) shows 110v before trying to start. after trying to start it shows 240v, even with ground lead on ground block and live lead on one side of run capacitor ( purple wire that goes to comp,red wire that goes to start cap). did not have time to switch run cap.to see if that would start #2 comp.,had to get rv back in storage so will have to try again next weekend.
the ac logic system requires the #1 system to be running normally before the #2 system will start.
my ac failed on a 100+ degree holiday weekend day.
as a trouble shooting procedure, i turned off the #2 system cb and my #1 system still would not start. the #2 would not start because of the logic system.
i then turned both cb's off and opened the ac compartment door. it hinges up after removing 2 screws.
then i removed the electric cover plate on the upper aft of the ac unit. there are red and green lights on the panel to aid in trouble shooting.
i then switched all the wiring so that the #1 system actually runs off of the #2 cb and electrical components. be careful here as the capacitors store a lot of power and can bite you.
my #1 system operated normally off of the #2 cb with the #1 cb turned off. so i had 1/2 of my system operating for the weekend.
i found that my #1 start relay had failed. the jumper wire on the relay was burned in half too. i also installed a new #1 hard start capacitor. the relay and capacitor are not expensive. i made a new jumper wire from #10 awg primary wire and connectors. i kept the old capacitor as a spare.
one reason that you should not leave your system configured bass ackwards is that the actual #1 compressor system has freeze protection thermistor while the #2 compressor system does not.
clear as mud huh? i THINK i have my #1's and #2's straight.
the bottom line is that you are fooling the ac logic system into believing that the #1 system is working normally, but it is actually using the #2 system components to operate the #1 system BY ITSELF. (important)
both of my systems have been working normally for 3+ years.
the relay is pn 1460-1131. the hard start capacitor is pn 8333a9021.

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Old 07-03-2012, 03:05 AM   #9
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The little hard start discs on top of the capacitors are generally what goes. When they do it is best to replace the entire capacitor set. About $50 the last time I did it. Swung by a dealer that my wife called that was on the way to our next campground stop and had them replaced in less than 30 minutes well before she had supper ready.

It is a 110 volt system so the 240 volt reading is a bit off. Are you sure you shore power is wired correctly or the transfer switch is not defective?
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Old 07-03-2012, 04:00 PM   #10
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bought a run capacitor at grainger for $13 but did not make it to storage last weekend so i have not replaced run cap. yet.

neil- the 240 volts threw me for loop. that was with generator on ,no shore power. i guess this weekend when i replace run cap if that does not fix it i will check transfer switch.
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Old 07-04-2012, 02:25 PM   #11
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bought a run capacitor at grainger for $13 but did not make it to storage last weekend so i have not replaced run cap. yet.

neil- the 240 volts threw me for loop. that was with generator on ,no shore power. i guess this weekend when i replace run cap if that does not fix it i will check transfer switch.
You have to replace the entire setup of the capacitor including the hard start device mounted on top of the capacitor. Most times it is just the A1 Components WSX-5ACM Motor Starter (P.T.C.R. Start Device) that fails first and not the run capacitor itself however you are supposed to replace them as a set.

Sometimes the Motor Starter will fail just from the act of trying to unplug it as they loose internal adhesion over time and all the parts may just slide out and get lost in the grass.

Brown outs do seem to be a major cause of these failing. Since I installed a Hughs Autoformer voltage booster on my shore line I have not had another motor starter fail in the past 4/5 years. I lost quite a few the first year I owned my coach before installing the Autoformer. I am sitting here at my desk going though a bag of spares that will still be good in an emergency which I keep just in case.
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Old 07-06-2012, 04:16 AM   #12
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correct me if i am wrong but i thought the start cap had the hard start disk attached to the top of it and the run cap did not. i physically removed and swapped #1 and #2 start cap and #1 came on but #2 still would not run. i assumed that meant start cap and disk were ok. did not get around to swapping #1 and #2 run cap with each other before taking rv back to storage.hopefully today i will get rv out of storage and replace run cap.
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Old 07-09-2012, 03:46 AM   #13
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made it to storage to get get rv this past weekend. replaced run cap on #2 side, no change. swapped relays and now #1 comp not running. run cap on #1 side showing 240v. got info on relay and will get replacement from grainger and hopefully that will be it.
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