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Old 09-17-2020, 10:41 PM   #21
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Made it through the day and I am going to look into changing the fuel filter tomorrow and see how that goes.

Sputtering happens and cuts out power for just moments - maybe ~1 to 6 seconds at a time, enough time to make me a hazard to the rest of the lane. Then if I cool it on any quick acceleration and chill around 40/50 for a couple minutes then I’ll be up a going. At around 70% tank it happens and happens more as I use more gas.
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Old 09-18-2020, 07:52 AM   #22
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Assuming a mechanical fuel pump it's a lot easier/cheaper to change the filter and then monitor to see if the issue returns whether it heat related. I'm not sure how you test mechanical fuel pumps. The fuel tank level relationship could relate to any of the three conditions, but note filling the tank would also be lowering the temp of the gasoline and helping with a vapor lock issue.
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Old 09-18-2020, 08:47 AM   #23
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Assuming a mechanical fuel pump it's a lot easier/cheaper to change the filter and then monitor to see if the issue returns whether it heat related. I'm not sure how you test mechanical fuel pumps. The fuel tank level relationship could relate to any of the three conditions, but note filling the tank would also be lowering the temp of the gasoline and helping with a vapor lock issue.
Usually a pump will leak around the diaphragm before it gives out completely. That's been my experience with the sole exception of a 79' 6 cyl. Malibu. A new mechanical pump is relatively inexpensive and might give you added piece of mind as you try to narrow down this problem.

The connection I was trying to make is kinda a guess... Could it be the fuel pump is getting weak and/or could Phillipsac be draining the fuel in the carb bowl too fast for it to be replaced by the pump?

I would be pretty sure that its a fuel issue if he lets off on the accelerator and the power comes right back.
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Old 09-18-2020, 09:20 AM   #24
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Okay so I replaced the fuel filter this morning and it feels a lot smoother and didn’t sputter at all this morning... until about 45% tank, then it started doing the same thing unfortunately.

Also, it has been quite fair weather this morning, around 50s/60s, so nothing around the engine has been that hot yet unlike the previous day.

Thoughts?
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Old 09-18-2020, 10:19 AM   #25
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Well you've done the easy thing, and probably ruled out the the vapor lock theory.

So that leaves fuel pump or something with the carb itself (e.g. water in the carb, bad floats, etc.)

As mentioned, I don't know how you test a mechanical fuel up, so I'm sort of out of advice at this point. Throwing money at a fuel filter isn't a bad thing to do since that's a regular maintenance item anyway. Throwing money at fuel pumps and carbs is an entirely different order of magnitude. I do think it is likely a fuel issue though.
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Old 09-18-2020, 10:54 AM   #26
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Okay so I replaced the fuel filter this morning and it feels a lot smoother and didn’t sputter at all this morning... until about 45% tank, then it started doing the same thing unfortunately.

Also, it has been quite fair weather this morning, around 50s/60s, so nothing around the engine has been that hot yet unlike the previous day.

Thoughts?
Don't rule out the possibility that if you have crud in your tank you may be plugging the new filter. Did you tear the old one apart to examine the paper element? If you did, was it just discolored paper or did you see sand, dirt, rust or sediment? If so, how much?

If the filter was good maybe go for the next cheapest thing to replace, the fuel pump. $20 to $30 was what I paid three years ago at O'Reilly's.

That would be what I would do. If the filter is fine and the pump is new my next shot would be to have an old school mechanic check/adjust or tune your carb to make sure its within specs.
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Old 09-18-2020, 11:00 AM   #27
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That would be what I would do. If the filter is fine and the pump is new my next shot would be to have an old school mechanic check/adjust or tune your carb to make sure its within specs.
If the OP can do the pump themselves for only a few bucks that would make sense.

As to the carb, I don't think there's any adjustment of the high speed settings. But floats could be off or it could be crapped up with water or other gunk, including possibly the effects of old fuel sitting.
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Old 09-18-2020, 12:35 PM   #28
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If the OP can do the pump themselves for only a few bucks that would make sense.

As to the carb, I don't think there's any adjustment of the high speed settings. But floats could be off or it could be crapped up with water or other gunk, including possibly the effects of old fuel sitting.
Phillipsac,
How far along are you on your trip? How many tankfulls have you went through?

I'm thinking he should have went through several tankfulls by now. Mine had a 36 gallon tank and I'd for sure be stopping before I'd have put 300 miles on the last thankful. Thirsty devil.

He should have idle control screws on the base of the carb facing towards the radiator as well as a screw on the driver's side to set the high idle.
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Old 09-18-2020, 03:09 PM   #29
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He should have idle control screws on the base of the carb facing towards the radiator as well as a screw on the driver's side to set the high idle.
But the problem isn't at idle.
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Old 09-18-2020, 03:21 PM   #30
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But the problem isn't at idle.
Nope, it isn't. Your prior post read to me like you thought the carb wasn't adjustable.
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Old 09-18-2020, 03:25 PM   #31
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Nope, it isn't. Your prior post read to me like you thought the carb wasn't adjustable.
I meant the high speed jets. By "high speed settings" I didn't mean high idle, although I can see that was ambiguous.
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Old 09-19-2020, 07:35 AM   #32
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Okay so I can’t really get going on the highway much at all now. So, my next two moves are fuel pump and possibly a “float adjustment?”

The previous owner did a bunch of carb work and he said it could need a float adjustment.

any of you know if either of those are doable on my own? Any resources for doing so?

Unfortunately it’s Saturday morning in Kansas...so a lot isn’t open till Monday morning.
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Old 09-19-2020, 07:51 AM   #33
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The previous owner did a bunch of carb work and he said it could need a float adjustment.

any of you know if either of those are doable on my own? Any resources for doing so?
That maybe would have been good information to have earlier. Just kidding because I don't think your intermittent problems are likely floats, as opposed so maybe other carb issues like water, gunked up jets, etc. I think float level adjustment would be a constant situation

I've never had good results doing my own carb work that wasn't simply screwing something out to remove it and then screwing something back in to replace it. As a general rule if I even saw part of a float the carb would not function thereafter. If I were thinking of taking this on I'd be looking for a rebuilt carb, particularly knowing that the prior owner had worked on it.

My concern though is that you're just throwing money at a problem without proper diagnosis. I don't have a problem with doing that with a fuel filter that is cheap and easy to replace. Unfortunately taking it to a mechanic the same thing may happen. Hopefully you do know a good mechanic.
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Old 09-19-2020, 07:54 AM   #34
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Did you ever do anything to check out the old filter? Empty it and look for water? Open it up to look to see how bad it was? Some people try blowing through it in the direction of fuel flow, but I'm not sure that works.
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Old 09-19-2020, 08:24 AM   #35
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Okay so I can’t really get going on the highway much at all now. So, my next two moves are fuel pump and possibly a “float adjustment?”

The previous owner did a bunch of carb work and he said it could need a float adjustment.

any of you know if either of those are doable on my own? Any resources for doing so?

Unfortunately it’s Saturday morning in Kansas...so a lot isn’t open till Monday morning.
Oh boy. I've rebuilt several over the years. Lotta small parts and tiny passages. Its doable for a person with medium mechanical skills and a regular set of tools. The float adjustment requires you to open up the bowl and set the floats by bending the tang. Not at all difficult if you've been there before and know what your looking at.

I don't know if YouTube will help, if you have the tools and gumption or if your able to find a rebuild kit. They usually don't include new floats now I think. A torch tip cleaner is handy for clearing small passages. Your carb is/was common and I'm betting someone has it nearby or can get it handily enough.

If your going to tackle this take pics or make a diagram of the carb as you pull it off and disassemble it. Work on a wide and level work surface. Stay/keep it low in relation to your workspace because when your turn things over they tend to have pieces that fall out. In your frustrated state its going to be easy enough to happen.

Your only other option would be to pay someone to rebuild it or replace it. I can't tell you what to do but I'm hoping you keep us posted and wish you good luck.

Guaranteed Carbuerator and Fuel Injection (www.guaranteedcarburetor.com) sells "bench tested" ready to slap on carbs. I think they are out of Florida and I don't know what the delivery time would be. A rebuild kit will be in the neighborhood of forty dollars. A rebuilt off Ebay or wherever will be about $200.00. New from a parts store will be north of $400.00 to start maybe.

Let us know what you are thinking.

Note: Helpful hint. If you decide rebuild it yourself and your removing the idle screws, count and track the number of turns it takes to remove them. Then if your idle was correct to begin with you will have a pretty close approximation when you put them back in.
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Old 09-19-2020, 08:29 AM   #36
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I've never had good results doing my own carb work that wasn't simply screwing something out to remove it and then screwing something back in to replace it. As a general rule if I even saw part of a float the carb would not function thereafter.
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Oh boy. I've rebuilt several over the years. Lotta small parts and tiny passages. Its doable for a person with medium mechanical skills and a regular set of tools.
Hey! As Garfield would say: I resemble that remark!

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Old 09-19-2020, 08:30 AM   #37
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Ya know... Replace that pump 1st maybe? Just a thought.
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Old 09-19-2020, 08:32 AM   #38
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Yeah I’m definitely not going to try the carb on my own.

Do you all think fuel pump is the next move tho? I’m mainly hearing talk about the carb.
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Old 09-19-2020, 08:42 AM   #39
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Do you all think fuel pump is the next move tho? I’m mainly hearing talk about the carb.
That's because you mentioned the carb!

As I mentioned, I don't think it's the float level, but it could be some other carb issue, such as water, which is why I asked if you'd checked the old fuel filter. It's possible your tank has a bunch of water in it. The filter would be catching some of that, but at some point it gets overwhelmed. It's only so big. And the thing about water is it does get sucked out of the carb too, which is why it causes performance issues, so water would be an intermittent problem. Probably not dependent on fuel level though at the levels you've been mentioning. But you could remove the new fuel filter and drain it out to look for water just as a cheap easy test.

But it could also be some other carb issue, but on a 2 barrel maybe that's less likely than a 4. But maybe the choke is closing for some reason, as an example. The fact the prior owner thought it needed some carb work may mean he worked on it, and he may have messed something up.

But if you're more comfortable replacing a fuel pump than doing carb work and if that doesn't cost a lot of money, that would be a thing to try.
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