2020 micro minnie 2108DS grey valve stuck open

[outthere]

I made the cut in the underbelly to access my grey valve. It's like Matt said. Valve to frame hole is two feet give or take. Mine is almost a straight line two foot path.
I had a 6' plus inch cable looped to operate my grey valve. It was always stiff but I could tell like everyone else when it reached closed position. I knew I was working too hard to open and shut this valve....every time. The last time near Cade's Cove I thought I should use my foot to close it proper. I bent the male part that you can barley see in the threaded housing in Matt's cable picture. Ok, so this prevented me from fully closing my stiff grey valve. Now that I have removed the entire cable assembly from the valve and frame I find that the valve works well and pretty smoothly.
The male part that I bent will only travel in the threaded assembly a few inches until it
reaches my bent spot. This cable works well when I hold it and push/pull the inner wire. It's not lube dry it's just working against itself.
I have a new cable assembly coming that I plan to cut to length and fit to the grey valve in a straight path. My valve is a Bristol valve and my cable wire is held in place by an allen screw on the valve shaft. I'll post back as I get the parts and work done.

[Nmscuba]

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

Have you lubed the cables/rods? Have you used any valve lube in the tanks?

Im new to all this. Just bought a 2024 2108 fbs and want to avoid as much as possible

Did you mention valve lube, what is it, where do you get it, and how do you use it?

[creativepart]

I had two Arctic Fox Travel trailers that used remote hidden valves. It was a selling point because it kept the valves from being exposed to cold temps and weather.

But... the valves work with bowden cables that need the outer sheath to be firmly affixed at both ends. And, by firmly I mean rigidly affixed, no bending or movement. With the outer sheath solidly affixed then the only thing that can move is the inner cable that operates the gate valve.

But anyone that uses one of these on their TT can see that this external plate where the handle is mounted has some bending capable. So, when you push on the handle some of the force is transferred to the external mount. and that inner cable doesn't have full effect on the gate valve. I assume there is a similar lack of solid connection at the cable's end under the RV, too. But that's hidden from view.

Unfortunately, my experience with this type of set up over time was 100% failure on both valves on the two travel trailers I owned with this type of operation. I ended up removing the cables, opening fully the two gate valves tucked up in the underbelly and adding new direct pull gate valves on the pipping externally on each side adjacent to the main dump opening.

Manufacturers would be much better off using a solid rod to operate the valve rather than a bowden cable. Or at least strengthen the mounts on each end of the cable to allow zero movement when the handle is pushed or pulled.