1999 Slide Out leaking hydraulic fluid

[Sk8Surfr]

This is very helpful. Thank you.

Mine is not currently extneded.

I am able (while losing a BUNCH of fluid). To extend the bad side all the way. But the other is only extended 75%. Which I can’t imagine is good for the slide!

I’ll see if I can extend it a little to access the end of the ram.

I hate to bring it to a shop. But might have to.

Will continue to google

[Chuckmor]

It would seem the bad side would not extend as far as the good side. And operating it unevenly should not be good for it. I hope you have the HWH manual for your setup. I don't think it covers detailed removal, but it should help some. Have you found anything about removing the cylinder/ram? You should also try to contact HWH (not easy) because you will have to order a new assembly. (Don't know if it could be rebuilt locally.) Good luck

[Sk8Surfr]

Originally Posted by Chuckmor

It would seem the bad side would not extend as far as the good side. And operating it unevenly should not be good for it. I hope you have the HWH manual for your setup. I don't think it covers detailed removal, but it should help some. Have you found anything about removing the cylinder/ram? You should also try to contact HWH (not easy) because you will have to order a new assembly. (Don't know if it could be rebuilt locally.) Good luck

Ya I have a manual. It helps some.

And correct. It’s very odd that that bad side extends better than the good side.

Sometimes when I hit the switch the good size doesn’t want to move. At all. So I retract- extend. Retract- Extend. Til the both move. But even then - they are not in sync and the bad side moves faster.

Very odd.

[Chuckmor]

Originally Posted by Sk8Surfr

Ya I have a manual. It helps some.

And correct. It’s very odd that that bad side extends better than the good side.

Sometimes when I hit the switch the good size doesn’t want to move. At all. So I retract- extend. Retract- Extend. Til the both move. But even then - they are not in sync and the bad side moves faster.

Very odd.

Keep us posted on your progress.

[Sk8Surfr]

I feel like I know what I need to do - but I don’t have the tools.

I feel like I need to disconnect the sync cylinder. And somehow get a spare hydraulic line - and push fluid independent to each ram. So I can get the thing extended fully in sync. Then remove the bad ram.

I just don’t have extra hose. Maybe I’ll look into it

[BobC]

First, I wouldn't give up on azpete. His recent post says to follow up via text if he's not getting back to you.

Secondly, if the leak is coming from your slide and not the jacks, I looked up your slide model AP13510 and it's listed as a:

DUAL CYLINDER ROOM EXTENSION – 20.0” STROKE (WITH SYNCHRONIZING CYLINDER)

http://www.hwh-europe.com/download/mr401050.pdf

This means you should have three cylinders, two extension cylinders and one synchronizing cylinder that goes between the two extension cylinders to balance the pressures. Mine is similar and there are three hoses connected to the synchronizing cylinder, the main hose from the pump and the two hoses, one to each of the two extension cylinders. The extension cylinders don't get pressure directly from the pump, just via the synchronizing cylinder. Therefore, there are three potential leaking points on the synchronizing cylinder:

https://www.hwhcorp.com/mr412020.html

I couldn't find a complete diagram, showing the orientation of the parts for your's but here's one for mine which should be pretty much the same (except mine has a Room 2, which is a bedroom slide):

https://www.hwhcorp.com/mp69411.pdf

On mine, the synchronizing cylinder is mounted to the frame under the slide, between the two extension rams and is easily visible, especially with the slide extended. If you're lucky, it's a loose connection, otherwise it could be a leaking hose ferrule.

Note that, if you have to replace a hose, the lengths are critical so don't be tempted to shorten what may seem to be an overly long hose. They're matched pairs and the lengths are what they are to balance pressures.

I hope this helps. I had to replace three hoses on mine.

[Sk8Surfr]

Originally Posted by BobC

First, I wouldn't give up on azpete. His recent post says to follow up via text if he's not getting back to you.

Secondly, if the leak is coming from your slide and not the jacks, I looked up your slide model AP13510 and it's listed as a:

DUAL CYLINDER ROOM EXTENSION – 20.0” STROKE (WITH SYNCHRONIZING CYLINDER)

http://www.hwh-europe.com/download/mr401050.pdf

This means you should have three cylinders, two extension cylinders and one synchronizing cylinder that goes between the two extension cylinders to balance the pressures. Mine is similar and there are three hoses connected to the synchronizing cylinder, the main hose from the pump and the two hoses, one to each of the two extension cylinders. The extension cylinders don't get pressure directly from the pump, just via the synchronizing cylinder. Therefore, there are three potential leaking points on the synchronizing cylinder:

https://www.hwhcorp.com/mr412020.html

I couldn't find a complete diagram, showing the orientation of the parts for your's but here's one for mine which should be pretty much the same (except mine has a Room 2, which is a bedroom slide):

https://www.hwhcorp.com/mp69411.pdf

On mine, the synchronizing cylinder is mounted to the frame under the slide, between the two extension rams and is easily visible, especially with the slide extended. If you're lucky, it's a loose connection, otherwise it could be a leaking hose ferrule.

Note that, if you have to replace a hose, the lengths are critical so don't be tempted to shorten what may seem to be an overly long hose. They're matched pairs and the lengths are what they are to balance pressures.

I hope this helps. I had to replace three hoses on mine.

Thanks for these links. Yes - found my sync cylinder - it's not leaking from anywhere around the sync cylinder. The leak is coming from inside the slide square black extension bracket - So I'm assuming it's the ram - I guess maybe it could be a fitting on the ram...

The odd part - is why the leaking side - is extending better (faster) than the non leaking side. It's so out of alignment. I need to figure out if there is a way to manually extend the slide... If I disconnect the hoses - I'll still have the ram nut attached - so don't think I'd be able to push it manually

Maybe I introduced air into the system somewhere... ?

I would like to

I will keep trying AZpete.

[BobC]

1. I know you're having trouble extending your slide, but, if you do get there, this video describes how to disconnect the cylinders. The system in the video is the same as mine, which is similar to your's. Note that it doesn't have to be all the way out to get access to the retaining nut:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBDZmsi4DRA

2. You shouldn't need a separate hose to put pressure into each side separately. The extend hose attachments are all accessible at the synchronizing cylinder. If you get an appropriately sized male-to-male brass fitting you could attach the line from the pump directly to the line connecting to the cylinder you want to extend. If you just bump the pump so each cylinder only moves an inch or so at a time, you should be OK. You only need to extend far enough to reach the access holes. I thought about just disconnecting one hose at a time from the synchronizing cylinder, capping the fitting on the synchronizing cylinder and bumping the pump. However, this keeps the synchronizing cylinder in the circuit and I'm not sure what it's going to do in terms of trying to balance pressures. CAVEAT: I've never done this and am no expert, so this may or may not be a good idea.

I suspect the leaking side might be extending further because the synchronizing cylinder is unsuccessfully trying to equalize the pressure to the two cylinders, and, in some counterintuitive way, is making the leaking cylinder extend faster.

[Sk8Surfr]

This is super helpful. I’m going to see what I can do to get access shortly. Thanks.

[Sk8Surfr]

About to try and take stuff apart - thinking ahead.... I believe I will be able to get the bad ram extended 100% and the good ram extended 75%. So the slide will be totally out of alignment (but it is now).

That would give me access to the nut on the end of the ram.

If I can remove that nut on BOTH rams... I should then be able to manually slide the slide out? All the way?

Then I can disconnect the lines on the bad ram - get it rebuilt...

Then I should be able to do the sync method - and get them to line back up correctly. Then reconnect the nut - and retract the slide.

Do these steps sound... accurate?

[BobC]

So, you're not going to try to pressurize each one separately?

[Sk8Surfr]

Originally Posted by BobC

So, you're not going to try to pressurize each one separately?

I might - but like you said originally since I don't need to extend the slide totally to access the nut - I figured if I can get it extended enough as is - once I remove the nuts - I should be able to manually (maybe with a friend of two) pull (or push) the slide open the remainder of the way?

[BobC]

Originally Posted by Sk8Surfr

I might - but like you said originally since I don't need to extend the slide totally to access the nut - I figured if I can get it extended enough as is - once I remove the nuts - I should be able to manually (maybe with a friend of two) pull (or push) the slide open the remainder of the way?

I guess it all depends on how significant the difference is. I wouldn't want it to wrack too much in terms of inches difference. I'd want to keep it to 3" - 4". I wonder what would happen if someone were to lean with their body weight against the leaking side as you extended the slide so there was more resistance to it's extending. It might be enough to mitigate the difference.

Since all you need to do is remove the cylinder on the leaking side, you shouldn't have to extend it all the way to do so once the nut is off. Once the leak is fixed, you'll install it at the same position since the ram will be somewhat extended. Alternatively, you could manually retract the slide, compress the ram and re-install in the closed position.

Before re-operating you'll want to bleed the system. I realize the system is self-bleeding/adjusting but, when I had to replace my hoses, azpete advised me to bleed the slide's hydraulic lines. It's not unlike bleeding brake lines.

[Sk8Surfr]

Got it removed - looks like it’s the o-ring at the end of the cap.

Rebuild at a shop? Or can you buy new end caps and orings?

[BobC]

Good work. Personally, I'd take it to a hydraulic shop. Then you'll know it's done right.

[tim myers]

Great work indeed and Bob thanks for jumping in on this one to help. It had grown beyond my expertise. Looking forward to this being fully resolved.

HWH has a bulletin on synchronizing the rams once all the repairs have been made. The out of sync issue is likely due to the OP having to stop the extend or retract because of the major leaks. HWH does not react well to partial extensions or retractions.

[BobC]

Originally Posted by tim myers

The out of sync issue is likely due to the OP having to stop the extend or retract because of the major leaks. HWH does not react well to partial extensions or retractions.

Yes. Azpete advised me to always fully extend before retracting. Here's what he had to say:

"it will not hurt to do it occasionally, but don't make a habit of it. you will cause the room to go out of sync. the best thing to do is extend the room, and hold the switch 5 seconds + or -, and you should not have a problem. holding the switch lets the piston inside the sync cylinder to center itself.
paul"

Also, with respect to O-ring replacement, this azpete's advice to me. This is in regard to the synchronizing cylinder but it should apply to the ram as well:

"If it is leaking at the end of the cylinder that has a rod that moves in and out, you may be able to unscrew the end and replace the o'ring. some are made that way, some are not.
i do not know the number or size of the o'ring, but I'm sure it can be found at ace hdwe. just make sure its neoprene.
hwh does not sell the oring, because when this area leaks, the leak is a symptom of a problem, not the cause.
its not the worn oring most of the time. either the rod is bent slightly, or it is covered with tar or some other substance that has worn the ring out, and likely scored the rod. at any rate, its worth trying. let me know what happens."

[tim myers]

Well, I think that is good news. Maybe you could try replacing the o-ring and maybe order a new RAM. I know they are many weeks out. If there are no issues with the o-ring replacement, either cancel the RAM or let is arrive to be a spare.


Fingers crossed now that you have it out and know how to change it. I am going to give mine another healthy look to see how hard it would be to R&R.


My system is working great at the moment but as we know things change LOL.


Good luck, take lots of pictures if you think of it.

[BobC]

If your cylinder isn't rebuildable, Stuart's Service in Elkhart, IN, may have one even if HWH doesn't:

HWH Replacement Parts - Stuart's Services

[Sk8Surfr]

Local rebuild shop was $175 to replace all seals/polish/ test to 1,000 psi. Which I think is reasonable.

I put the rebuilt cylinder in... and guess what - the other side started to leak! ha...

I tore that side out - brought it in - awaiting rebuild.

At least now I will have two good rebuilt cylinders!

I need to re-read the sync procedure - my slide is currently fully extended. The 'good' cylinder is fully retracted. Maybe I'll just fully extend each side manually to get all the air out... then connect and retract/extend and make sure they are in sync.