WDH or Airbags or Both For Boondocking With Micro Minnie

[Ret.LEO]

Seriously considering a new Micro Minnie 2100BH for boondocking. Of course a WDH and anti sway is a necessity. Probably will be the Equalizer for all highway travel and some travel on BLM ground. The question I have if in rougher country and going through washes and what not which could put the truck/trailer at strange angles such as: the front of the truck going over the high spot and the trailer tongue in the low spot with the arse end of the trailer still being higher than the tongue. Wouldn't that put the WDH and it's tension bars at some incredible pressure? Would it be better to take the bars off resulting in the rear of the truck too low? Or would it be best to have airbags to air up to level truck & trailer and take the WDH torsion bars off when going into rougher areas?
Thanks!

[chrishBC]

what do you tow with? I have towed a 3000 lb 18 ft trailer, (21 ft hitch to bumper) palomino Gazzelle 178 QB for past 12 years, and tow with both a Toyota FJ Cruiser and a newer F150...Never needed WD hitch or sway control on any trips with either vehicle. We just upgraded to a Minnie 2201 DS and will be looking at a WD hitch, likely Anderson, but that trailer is now 2000 lb heavier. If your trailer is level and weighs a good bit less than tow vehicle you dont need WD,

[Ret.LEO]

Originally Posted by chrishBC

what do you tow with? I have towed a 3000 lb 18 ft trailer, (21 ft hitch to bumper) palomino Gazzelle 178 QB for past 12 years, and tow with both a Toyota FJ Cruiser and a newer F150...Never needed WD hitch or sway control on any trips with either vehicle. We just upgraded to a Minnie 2201 DS and will be looking at a WD hitch, likely Anderson, but that trailer is now 2000 lb heavier. If your trailer is level and weighs a good bit less than tow vehicle you dont need WD,

Hi, I have a 7300 tow capacity and 1300lb CCC on my Toyota Tundra. General rule of thumb is if the total towed vehicle weight is 50% or less of tow capacity of TV you need a WDH. I will possibly be towing a Micro Minnie 2100BH with a "dry weight" of 3860 Lbs which puts me over 50% right there. Then figure between the real dry weight and aprox. 800 Lbs of contents I'm more like 64% of my tow capacity w/out adding in water.
A WDH/Anti Sway hitch is in my future for sure.
Your "FJ" is one cool ride! What a awesome Toyota

[MicroMinnie]

Yes, the concept of moving weight (few hundred pounds) from hitch to front axle requires tremendous amount of force. one reason it’s not recommended on certain vehicles or suv’s as it may cause damage. (owners manual would state that)

The angle between TV and trailer up or down would change that force.

Most pickup trucks won’t require wdh with the the trailer you’ll be towing (benefit of moving 150lbs to the front is marginal)

My truck is well within loading specs but added firestone airbags to make up for the 1” drop at the back. looks cooler

[backtrack15]

I can definitely see the rationale for removing the spring bars when traveling off road. That seems like a good idea.

[Marine359]

My Husky Centerline WDH is noisier in slow speed turns, I believe because I didn’t remove torsion bars on challenging terrain. I live up a long steep and winding road that is uneven. After leaving them on a few times, the trunnion bar swivel points became very tight and difficult to rotate. So, I’ve started taking them off when not on the freeway. They’re really only needed at speeds above 50mph. Leaving them on when driving on unpaved and rutted blm roads, I believe could damage the hitch system.

[McTrailer]

I have a 2100bh and towed with a 2002 chevy 1500 and a 2020 chevy 3500

The 1500 setup used a equalizer e2 wdh. It put a noticeable amount of pressure on the bars to keep the squat off, liked it alot.

The 3500 uses same e2 setup but with significant more drop. After setting up the hitch exactly as per the manual asks, it uses just a little pressure on the bars when loaded, nowhere near as much as the 1500. It does still maintain some friction sway control which I like.

As far as boondocking with a 2100bh on rough terrain, I would be concerned the 2100bh structure will not take the beating on bumps well, especially the slideout portion of the camper. I would not take the 2100bh on rough terrain and if I did I would go incredibly slow.

Its not the frame and axles, its everything else. Once that camper bounces up and bounces back down, the wood frame, the thin plywood, everything will stress considerably and begin crushing in certain areas. Trim will start to pop and areas near the slideout will start to move out of alignment. When you look in the cabinets and see how light duty the structure is, you will know what Im talking about.

I am happy with the 2100bh, but in no ways is it built to handle off road.

[McTrailer]

Also most wdh hitch manuals will address your concerns. This is an excerpt from the e2 fastway hitch. (Not sure how to address format errors)[Staff Edit: I corrected them]

"Do not tow with your hitch engaged on rough roads, through profound ditches, dips, or swales, or while launching a boat if you need more rear wheel traction. Excessive strain on the spring bars and hitch head may cause hitch fatigue or failure.

If your dealer installed your hitch, verify that it is still adjusted correctly after loading your trailer and tow vehicle for your trip.

Replace worn, faded, or unreadable warning stickers on the hitch.

Do not transfer hitch to a different tow vehicle or trailer without adjusting the hitch for proper setup and weight distribution.

CAUTION
Do not loosen or remove any part of the hitch while the hitch is underload.
Use the tongue jack to take the tension off the weight distribution bars before removing the L-pins.

Always secure the tow vehicle and trailer with the parking brake and wheel chocks before setting up or adjusting the hitch.

Disengage weight distribution before towing or backing the trailer where there is a significant transition in grade which puts excessive strain on the hitch, e.g. backing from a flat street to a steep uphill driveway."

[Ret.LEO]

Originally Posted by McTrailer

I have a 2100bh and towed with a 2002 chevy 1500 and a 2020 chevy 3500

The 1500 setup used a equalizer e2 wdh. It put a noticeable amount of pressure on the bars to keep the squat off, liked it alot.

The 3500 uses same e2 setup but with significant more drop. After setting up the hitch exactly as per the manual asks, it uses just a little pressure on the bars when loaded, nowhere near as much as the 1500. It does still maintain some friction sway control which I like.

As far as boondocking with a 2100bh on rough terrain, I would be concerned the 2100bh structure will not take the beating on bumps well, especially the slideout portion of the camper. I would not take the 2100bh on rough terrain and if I did I would go incredibly slow.

Its not the frame and axles, its everything else. Once that camper bounces up and bounces back down, the wood frame, the thin plywood, everything will stress considerably and begin crushing in certain areas. Trim will start to pop and areas near the slideout will start to move out of alignment. When you look in the cabinets and see how light duty the structure is, you will know what Im talking about.

I am happy with the 2100bh, but in no ways is it built to handle off road.

I sent a letter off to Adam Christofferson at Winn to find out where they are using aluminum in the structure. I feel much better about a Micro Minnie than I would with say a Rockwood Geo Pro or similar. I really think Winn. is more of a premium material and build quality than the vast majority of the small trailer market.
Josh Winters from Haylett's RV in MI recently did a video on the different build methods: stick & tin, aluminum fiberglass laminates and the last type is what he called a "hybrid" which is a fiberglass over wood frame laminate. He was actually very fond of the hybrid idea. So whether the Micro Minnie is alum framed on all 4 sides or two it might not make too much difference? I have also considered the 1800BH because it doesn't have a slide, one less potential problem and more weather proof.
I'm just a old farm boy, drove semi's for 20 years before going to the Sheriff's Dept for 17 years before "stroking out" My wild days have been over for quite a few years LOL
I would be incredibly careful in unimproved areas. Not a wild and crazy driver by any means....face it..........how much rougher could it get than Western Illinois roads where I live LoL
At worst maybe the Hike might be the way to go? Otherwise the only other brand that looks well built is the Grand Design Imagine XLS

[backtrack15]

The floor, side walls, and rear wall are aluminum framed. The roof and front wall are wood framed. This applies for 2021 anyway. The 1800BH is a nice option. You get simplicity and extra storage as well.

[McTrailer]

Originally Posted by Ret.LEO

I sent a letter off to Adam Christofferson at Winn to find out where they are using aluminum in the structure. I feel much better about a Micro Minnie than I would with say a Rockwood Geo Pro or similar. I really think Winn. is more of a premium material and build quality than the vast majority of the small trailer market.
Josh Winters from Haylett's RV in MI recently did a video on the different build methods: stick & tin, aluminum fiberglass laminates and the last type is what he called a "hybrid" which is a fiberglass over wood frame laminate. He was actually very fond of the hybrid idea. So whether the Micro Minnie is alum framed on all 4 sides or two it might not make too much difference? I have also considered the 1800BH because it doesn't have a slide, one less potential problem and more weather proof.
I'm just a old farm boy, drove semi's for 20 years before going to the Sheriff's Dept for 17 years before "stroking out" My wild days have been over for quite a few years LOL
I would be incredibly careful in unimproved areas. Not a wild and crazy driver by any means....face it..........how much rougher could it get than Western Illinois roads where I live LoL
At worst maybe the Hike might be the way to go? Otherwise the only other brand that looks well built is the Grand Design Imagine XLS

Oh If you boondock on paved'sh areas you will be totally fine. The winnebago brand drew me in because it looked like much better quality at the time then the competitors. Lo and behold they are pretty much all the same unless you are shopping for the really cheapo models. Winnebago Micro Minnies seem to be like mid-tier compared to competition. I just had so much problems with my 2019 it made me mad and think twice about their name recognition.

The floorplan was great for us and our kid. I recently removed the bottom bunk and now he has a little quiet play area where he has some privacy.

I think there is a similar floorplan with a murpby bed? I would absolutely take that one over the fixed queen if there is.

[backtrack15]

Originally Posted by Ret.LEO

I sent a letter off to Adam Christofferson at Winn to find out where they are using aluminum in the structure. I feel much better about a Micro Minnie than I would with say a Rockwood Geo Pro or similar. I really think Winn. is more of a premium material and build quality than the vast majority of the small trailer market.
Josh Winters from Haylett's RV in MI recently did a video on the different build methods: stick & tin, aluminum fiberglass laminates and the last type is what he called a "hybrid" which is a fiberglass over wood frame laminate. He was actually very fond of the hybrid idea. So whether the Micro Minnie is alum framed on all 4 sides or two it might not make too much difference? I have also considered the 1800BH because it doesn't have a slide, one less potential problem and more weather proof.
I'm just a old farm boy, drove semi's for 20 years before going to the Sheriff's Dept for 17 years before "stroking out" My wild days have been over for quite a few years LOL
I would be incredibly careful in unimproved areas. Not a wild and crazy driver by any means....face it..........how much rougher could it get than Western Illinois roads where I live LoL
At worst maybe the Hike might be the way to go? Otherwise the only other brand that looks well built is the Grand Design Imagine XLS

I can't quite tell what your needs are. If you're traveling alone, I think the 1708FB is nearly the perfect trailer (short/narrow/dual-axles/no-slide/dinette with window on the curb side). If you need bunks, the 1800BH is the obvious analog (provided the interior space is okay for your family). I've got older kids and needed a touch more room and a dinette big enough for all, so I went with the 2100BH. I love the width/length/simplicity of the Micro Minnies. We have had much smaller and much bigger trailers before. This one is just right.

[Ret.LEO]

Thanks to all who have responded.....many great thoughts and personal experience with different models.
I compared the construction of the Micro Minnie to the Hike. Looks like identical construction except for the obvious exoskeleton which I think is more of a brush guard and hitching point for accessories.
To clarify better I don't intend to climb the highest mountain or find the roughest trail to bump across. Guess I'll be looking more at "dispersed" camping sites along streams, forests and grasslands. I can check aerial maps ahead of time to find the easier to get to spots.
I'm limited on truck capacity with a 7,100 lb tow rating and 1,300 lb CCC. In reality it will be just a Golden Retriever and myself. A much more realistic 6,300 lb tow rating max and a 730 total hitch weight (counting anything behind the back axle of my truck) max.
Seems that most of all Micro Minnies will be in my limits. I really like the 2225RL with the large rear window but having just one heat outlet I'm afraid it could make for a cold bed and bath LOL I'm not sure if it even has a AC outlet in the bath. The Murphy Beds don't appeal much to me as they switched to split mattresses this year. I need a good quality mattress: spinal stenosis, spinal scoliosis
The bunk houses appeal to me as I intend to put in a large solar/Li battery/ hybrid Victron Multiplus inverter/charger. I'll take out the lower bunk in the lower bunk area to put the batteries up against the forward wall so they sit right above/behind the rear axle. The inverter/charger can be mounted on the wall above them. I'll use the area behind that for very light storage.......extra clothes, paper products etc. The upper bunk will be used for a Grand child when they go with Grandad Of course weight placement will depend on what a CAT Scale dictates.

Here is the info. I got from Adam Christofferson today......good guy!
Micro Minnie is equipped for non-traditional campgrounds. We use Dexter Torsion axles, which are lifted 4” for more ground clearance. We use a larger 15” off-road tire. Overall, the Micro Minnie sits about 4 ½” taller than traditional trailers. It being 7’ wide makes it narrower to tighter paths. The width also makes it lighter of dry weights compared to traditional 8’ models. We offer dual LP tanks for extended use while dry camping. We also now offer (1) 100-watt solar panel and a charge controller from the factory. You can add more solar if desired. If adding more than an additional 100 watts, you’ll have the upgrade the charge controller to accommodate more than 200 watts total. We also offer heated enclosed underbelly as well as 12v tank pad heaters for extended season camping. This is in addition to our Comfort Tech package which is added insulation in the underbelly and reflective material in the roof.
For construction, the Micro Minnie is has aluminum sidewalls in which the aluminum tubs are laminated/integrated into our fully laminated sidewalls. We stuff the aluminum tubes with pine wood for better security of interior items. The roof is a wood truss system. This is actually proven to be stronger and more durable than aluminum.

Sorry for being so long winded folks!

[Ret.LEO]

Here is additional information I got from Adam last evening (good guy) ref. the Micro Minnie:
The front radius wall is wooden but the back wall is aluminum. There is residential type insulation in the rear wall, roof, front radius wall and floors. The 2 sidewalls are the only two with high-density block foam insulation.

Between the Hike and Micro Minnie. Floors and sidewalls are constructed the same. The roof on the hike is aluminum frame, including the front and rear radius walls. The Hike is a seamless one-piece fiberglass wrap start in the rear and covering the entire roof and front radius area. The Hike is not a walkable roof like the Micro Minnie.
The nerf bars integrated info the frame as well as the exo-skeleton on the top/outside can be used as brush guards. We were also strategic in the size of the aluminum tubes. They are sized so aftermarket equipment such as Yakima and Thule accessories can be secured directly to it. We have Thule bike racks (used in the 2” receiver), Thule kayak rack and Thule luggage rack that we show and display at larger events. A regular ladder would be difficult because of the rear radius profile. The cross members of the exoskeleton are rated for 350lbs. and can be used to help secure gear or climb up and check roof caulks/seals.
There's a good description of construction of the Micro and the Minnie. Thanks to Adam for clarification on construction methods. I think the Minnie will fill my needs perfectly.