Towing Jeep for first time Advice

GaryT · 10-01-2021, 02:15 PM

We have a Outlook 22c - Ford 350 Class C RV
Have been considering towing a vehicle and recently found one which was used as a toad on a class A motorhome and going over all the parts and connections that need to be done to use it.
I believe I should be OK with the GCVWR for the Jeep.

It is a: 2008 Jeep Wrangler HK Unlimited X
Has Tow Bar installed and wiring receptacle (although seems like a lot of extra tow connections to front). I don't know if maybe it originally had a Road Master tow bar and that is why, and they adapted it for the Blue Ox Aladin tow bar.

Included:
1. Blue Ox Tow bar for RV. It was a little stiff, so I took the boots off, cleaned and they move much easier now.
Only issue I see with it is that it looks like it might have come off the holding pin when they had it on the RV and dragged it. One of the knuckles that attaches to the towed tow bar is worn a bit at an angle. I cleaned up all the quick release tow bar parts of some rust and they look in good shape.

2. All connecting cables - Electric, and safety cables

3. An Even Brake - Jeep has transmitter installed and it seems to work on my inital test of it.
Seems like a complicated procedure to setup everything but I guess after you do it a few times it will become natural.

To TOW:
The Battery has a disconnect leaver on the Ground side. I was told to disconnect the battery when towing.
Connect tow bar, Electric, Safety Cables, and Break-A-Way cable.
Put Trans alxe in Neutral and Transmission in gear (I assume 1st gear).
Ignition should be in ACC mode.
Connect and setup the Even Brake system.
Check lights are working, and should be good to go.

We have towed a U-Haul trailer fully loaded before with RV without any difficulties.
Plan on doing a hookup and test run with it soon. Is there anything else I should be looking at or checking?

be happy · 10-02-2021, 04:40 AM

When I towed a jeep the owners manual had a page dedicated to how to and in what order to get the jeep ready to tow.
I do not understand the battery disconnect maybe thats something new. I do however remember make sure the steering wheel in NOT locked. My first tow I keep the steering wheel locked and blew out both front tires.

GaryT · 10-02-2021, 06:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by be happy

When I towed a jeep the owners manual had a page dedicated to how to and in what order to get the jeep ready to tow.
I do not understand the battery disconnect maybe thats something new. I do however remember make sure the steering wheel in NOT locked. My first tow I keep the steering wheel locked and blew out both front tires.

Ouch! Thank you for the info. I did check manual on procedure.

I believe disabling the battery from vehicle is to extend time and reduce draw on it.
The Even Brake has a direct line to the battery via a cigarette/accessory plug.

JLUSoCal · 10-02-2021, 08:51 AM

Double-check the key in the ACC position. A fellow camper tows a 2015 wrangler and when the key was in that position it seemed to activate the traction control and locked up the brakes from time to time around corners. He didn't notice but I did when following him.

The manual will say the correct procedure. Without the battery though that might or rather should kill that system IF they had in 2008.

JLUSoCal · 10-02-2021, 08:56 AM

Whoops, just found the manual - you are correct, ACC position for that year. Wonder if it has a steering wheel lock?

Enjoy - I tow a 2018 and while I know it's behind my 30-foot motorhome, having it at our destination is great. It's the easiest car I've dighy'd.

Morich · 10-02-2021, 09:29 AM

You may have already done it or thought of it, but a good idea is to always assume something will come loose, even though we really hope it's all secure.
One of the small points to avoid a repair is to always look at how you have connected the cables and what may happen if one does come loose. Crossing the safety cables from left to right and doing it on TOP of the tow bar is one way to help save the ends from dragging if they do come loose.
I worked in industry where red/right was a standard and we have marked the safety cable ends with red and green plastic ties to make it easy to get the mined correctly as I hook up. When facing the RV, the red hook goes right and when facing the car it is true in that direction as well. That saves having to trace out the cables each time and also guards against getting distracted and doing it wrong.

Last step before towing is to do a full lights and brake check!
Also if you have slack in the wiring tether, look at folding it loosely in such a way that it has plenty of slack to allow for the sharpest corner but not enough to let the end drag if it comes loose?
We had coiled cables that made a nice "pocket" for the excess wiring to fold into and ride where they would pull out if the corner required more but stay for most of the time.

For any new setup, we have found it worthwhile to really read the manual for ourselves as it is too easy to get bad info or do it from what we have always done before. Newer electronics on newer cars are making it far more difficult for some cars.
We now try it on a corner to make certain the wheels are clear to track without dragging. We drive to the corner and while one is driving the other watching the front wheels before we trust it as okay!
I also recommend each person has a definite set of things to do when hooking up and doing the setup. I do the mechanicals of attaching while she does the set up for the car as that does give each of us more chance of watching a more limited amount.

JLUSoCal · 10-02-2021, 09:42 AM

Morich,

"Crossing the safety cables from left to right and doing it on TOP of the tow bar is one way to help save the ends from dragging if they do come loose."

Good points all - hmm on the safety cables, I was taught to cross but under to keep the bar / hitch of a trailer from hitting the ground, but you're stating the opposite for a tow bar. I guess you do want it to contact the ground?

Morich · 10-02-2021, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JLUSoCal

Morich,

"Crossing the safety cables from left to right and doing it on TOP of the tow bar is one way to help save the ends from dragging if they do come loose."

Good points all - hmm on the safety cables, I was taught to cross but under to keep the bar / hitch of a trailer from hitting the ground, but you're stating the opposite for a tow bar. I guess you do want it to contact the ground?

No t that I would want it to do that but more looking at how often the one happens versus the other. Part of that has to be how well I trust the tow bar connection versus how little I trust the wires and cables?

What I "feel" without really having either happen often is that I do find the plugs can come out and the smaller cables come loose more often than the bigger items like the bar itself. And that can get back to how well fastened each might be. In our case with the Blue Ox bar, the pins and snaprings to hold them in are secure enough that I do not look at them as a hazard for coming loose except in really big time events where the tow bar dragging is not going to make enough difference to worry!

If it were a different type hitch, possibly a 2" inch ball at the RV, I might feel different as those can pop up and off, but with a 2" receiver and a big locking pin to hold it, I do not worry the tow bar dropping.
Boat and utility trailers, I do go under but with the Rv and car, I like over as I have found the cord can drop out fairly easy if I drive through rough ground where there may be some limbs, etc. to snag.

JLUSoCal · 10-02-2021, 12:15 PM

Got it - agree - not likely to drop - my coiled cables have "clips" on both ends to make sure they don't fall off. My setup also has cables to attach the baseplate to the frame in the event the baseplate bolts fail I guess.

You're right in a catastrophic event all things that are working to keep from having your tow vehicle separating are well... good things. Might not be pretty when the event is over, but at least you're trying to keep your dighy close by and take on the damage yourself and being behind you MUCH safer for you.

GaryT · 10-02-2021, 05:07 PM

Thanks for the info. I will definitely check sterring lock.
All great thimgs to consider.

Keith H · 10-06-2021, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaryT

Ouch! Thank you for the info. I did check manual on procedure.

I believe disabling the battery from vehicle is to extend time and reduce draw on it.
The Even Brake has a direct line to the battery via a cigarette/accessory plug.

If you disconnect the battery there is no power to the accessory plug to power the Even Brake. I would leave the battery connected and run a power line from the MH to Jeep.

68SILVER · 10-06-2021, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaryT

We have a Outlook 22c - Ford 350 Class C RV
Have been considering towing a vehicle and recently found one which was used as a toad on a class A motorhome and going over all the parts and connections that need to be done to use it.
I believe I should be OK with the GCVWR for the Jeep.

It is a: 2008 Jeep Wrangler HK Unlimited X
Has Tow Bar installed and wiring receptacle (although seems like a lot of extra tow connections to front). I don't know if maybe it originally had a Road Master tow bar and that is why, and they adapted it for the Blue Ox Aladin tow bar.

Included:
1. Blue Ox Tow bar for RV. It was a little stiff, so I took the boots off, cleaned and they move much easier now.
Only issue I see with it is that it looks like it might have come off the holding pin when they had it on the RV and dragged it. One of the knuckles that attaches to the towed tow bar is worn a bit at an angle. I cleaned up all the quick release tow bar parts of some rust and they look in good shape.

2. All connecting cables - Electric, and safety cables

3. An Even Brake - Jeep has transmitter installed and it seems to work on my inital test of it.
Seems like a complicated procedure to setup everything but I guess after you do it a few times it will become natural.

To TOW:
The Battery has a disconnect leaver on the Ground side. I was told to disconnect the battery when towing.
Connect tow bar, Electric, Safety Cables, and Break-A-Way cable.
Put Trans alxe in Neutral and Transmission in gear (I assume 1st gear).
Ignition should be in ACC mode.
Connect and setup the Even Brake system.
Check lights are working, and should be good to go.

We have towed a U-Haul trailer fully loaded before with RV without any difficulties.
Plan on doing a hookup and test run with it soon. Is there anything else I should be looking at or checking?

. I have toed a 2010 wrangler and a 2016 wrangler unlimited The owners manual will give you towing instructions. The steering column did not lock on rather contrary to what the is manual said. Transfer case in mitral tranny in park pull the key and go. I think you are pissing the limit with a 350 but that's just my idea. Don't forget your auxiliary brake. You need it.

GaryT · 10-06-2021, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keith H

If you disconnect the battery there is no power to the accessory plug to power the Even Brake. I would leave the battery connected and run a power line from the MH to Jeep.

Thanks,

They had a connected to one of the accessory plugs, I used those wires to put in a plug that is a direct connect to the battery for the Even Brake to connect to.

GaryT · 10-06-2021, 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 68SILVER

. I have toed a 2010 wrangler and a 2016 wrangler unlimited The owners manual will give you towing instructions. The steering column did not lock on rather contrary to what the is manual said. Transfer case in mitral tranny in park pull the key and go. I think you are pissing the limit with a 350 but that's just my idea. Don't forget your auxiliary brake. You need it.

Thanks, looks like I will need to check that. The wrangler is manual 6 speed.

I am planning on getting the Jeep weighed and calculate from there. Yes I know I will probably feel it, will see if I think it is safe. I have the Even Brake for the Jeep and plan on a short test run to the scales. We will see.

FIRE UP · 10-06-2021, 07:25 PM

GaryT,
I browsed through most of the answers but may have missed someone providing VITAL information pertaining to an '08 Wrangler. What I didn't see in the answers was, there are TWO variations of the '08 Wrangler. In the first part of production, the Wrangler DID need the battery disconnected for towing due to the fact that certain parts of the electrical system are energized when the key is used to UNLOCK the steering, in order to tow the Jeep.

But, the second part of the production year, Jeep discontinued the steering lock and therefore, there was/is no longer a need to disconnect the battery. Now what this means is, you'll have to determine, through your VIN, just when in the production cycle of 2008, your particular Jeep was manufactured. If your Jeep was second half production, you don't need to disconnect the battery when towing. But, if it's a first half, then you will.

Orrrrrrr, you can do what many, many folks on here and other RV forums have and that is, with about a hour or two worth of work, you can DISCONNECT that steering lock PERMENANTLY! Youtube is your friend here. There are plenty of videos showing EXACTLY how to disconnect that steering lock. Our Jeep is a '15 JKUR and there is no need for battery disconnect and no steering lock. We hook the Jeep to the tow bar, do all the steps necessary for towing which, for us takes about 20-30 seconds and, we're done. The key is removed and the door closed, and, we're off and traveling.

Jeep, has not been without issues in creating some of its owners manuals. They have put steps in the towing procedure that are not needed and they know it. They have sent corrections to the manuals to some folks but, not all. But, for all intent and purpose, since the second of half production year of '08, NO WRANLGER has a steering lock, period. We've owned, modified, towed and used 9 different Jeep Wranglers in the past 36+ years. Some folks make this (towing them) harder than it is. Good luck on yours.
Scott

Fox · 10-07-2021, 04:45 AM

My procedure is different. Always check your manual and check you tube for hints!

GaryT · 10-07-2021, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FIRE UP

GaryT,
I browsed through most of the answers but may have missed someone providing VITAL information pertaining to an '08 Wrangler. What I didn't see in the answers was, there are TWO variations of the '08 Wrangler. In the first part of production, the Wrangler DID need the battery disconnected for towing due to the fact that certain parts of the electrical system are energized when the key is used to UNLOCK the steering, in order to tow the Jeep.

But, the second part of the production year, Jeep discontinued the steering lock and therefore, there was/is no longer a need to disconnect the battery. Now what this means is, you'll have to determine, through your VIN, just when in the production cycle of 2008, your particular Jeep was manufactured. If your Jeep was second half production, you don't need to disconnect the battery when towing. But, if it's a first half, then you will.

Orrrrrrr, you can do what many, many folks on here and other RV forums have and that is, with about a hour or two worth of work, you can DISCONNECT that steering lock PERMENANTLY! Youtube is your friend here. There are plenty of videos showing EXACTLY how to disconnect that steering lock. Our Jeep is a '15 JKUR and there is no need for battery disconnect and no steering lock. We hook the Jeep to the tow bar, do all the steps necessary for towing which, for us takes about 20-30 seconds and, we're done. The key is removed and the door closed, and, we're off and traveling.

Jeep, has not been without issues in creating some of its owners manuals. They have put steps in the towing procedure that are not needed and they know it. They have sent corrections to the manuals to some folks but, not all. But, for all intent and purpose, since the second of half production year of '08, NO WRANLGER has a steering lock, period. We've owned, modified, towed and used 9 different Jeep Wranglers in the past 36+ years. Some folks make this (towing them) harder than it is. Good luck on yours.
Scott

Thank you for your comments. Through all my checking via VIN I am unable to figure when in 2008 it was built. I will just make sure I have followed the owners manual steps and check to make sure wheels definitely do not lock. Unless I find something contrary to this.
The jeep was towed by the previous owner (so I am told) and he installed a Ground disconnect switch on the battery for be switched off when towed. The manual does state to disconnect the Negative battery cable from the battery.

It is also wired for connection to RV to control rear Brake/Turning Lights.

I just want to be safe out there, for me and others sake.

AZ Okies · 10-07-2021, 02:10 PM

We just had this 4 dr Wrangler fitted to tow behind our View class C with our Blue Ox. If your cigarette lighter isn’t hot when acc is off, there’s a little device you can attach to make it hot so nothing else is pulling battery. I’ll get the link and post it.

GaryT · 10-08-2021, 04:08 AM

Nice Looking. I have a 12v accessory receptacle. It is directly run from the battery, even when Neg ground wire is disconnected. Still interested in seeing what the device is if you find the link.

AZ Okies · 10-08-2021, 07:51 AM

Here’s the info on the little hookup item to make the cig lighter hot. It’s from CooltechLLC. Someone on View/Navion Facebook page recommended it. 3 minute install for my husband to do. It was $35.00 total, shipped in 2 days. Btw, we weighed this beast yesterday with bikes on it. Came in at 4860. Means we’ll be unhooking this baby going through mountains! We towed a packed Honda Pilot for a long time though with our Navion 14J, and never had a problem.