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Old 07-07-2009, 06:01 PM   #1
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Towing

I Have a 1999 Winne with the ISB 5.9( turbo 275 hp) and would like to tow a trailer of 23 ft and 5000lbs. How do you think it would do. I know it won't be fast but I stay around 55 to 60.
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Old 07-07-2009, 08:28 PM   #2
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Anyone???
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Old 07-07-2009, 08:36 PM   #3
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Before any of us offer comments -thoughts, etc. it would help to know what your hitch rating is. Also what are your GVWR and GCWR. I had a 275 ISB on a '99 Discovery and towed a '99 Blazer 4 down. I know have a370 pusher with a 10,000 #hitch and tow a 20' enclosed trailer. However, my past exoeriences may be for naught if your numbers above do not match up. Helo=p us help you, regards, Ken...
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Old 07-07-2009, 09:08 PM   #4
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Ok the hitch rating is 5000 lbs the GVRW Is 23,600 The GCWR Rating is 28,690
The motorhome weigh,s 22,600 as is now.
It looks good to me but I would like to know from others who have pulled this weight.

Thanks Don and Barb
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Old 07-07-2009, 09:58 PM   #5
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Tcloud7......

Sounds like you are pushing the limits of your towing vehicle. Without additional information, such as GCWR of the towing vehicle and the weight of the toad, etc., one cannot venture an opinion one way or the other. You have some homework to do. I might suggest what a person has done and what is legal is two different things. With the liability factor in mind I would sure stay legal. With the monetary issue in mind be sure to stay within your equipment limitations.

Having said all of that, and I am no means an expert, the decision is yours. Here is a website that can answer just about 100% of your questions:

http://www.rversonline.org/ArtWtandBal.html

I might suggest you put this website in you "favorites" folder for future reference. I know it has been a great help to me. Scroll down to paragraphs 11 and 12.

Good luck and let us know what you decide.

Becker
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Old 07-08-2009, 09:03 AM   #6
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Thanks Becker. As for the GCWR its 28,690.
As for the tires The motorhome came with load range F and I replaced them with load range G.
It looks to be legal to me. With the weight at 22,600 now full of water food and fuel both diesel and propane. The trailer is 5000lbs and that is what the limit is. It will be balanced.
I still would like to know if anyone has pulled this weight with this motorhome or the ISB5.9 motor.
I also have a class A lic. and have driven many kind of trucks over the years.

Thanks Don and Barb
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Old 07-08-2009, 11:50 AM   #7
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Tcloud7......

If all the weights check out it looks like you are good to go......

With your experience (class A license) you should have no problem. The only other thing I can think of is trailer brakes. 5,000 lbs (is that the total loaded weight?) I don't know what state you live in, whether they require brakes are not. That 5000 lbs might push pretty good going down hill.

Good luck!

Becker
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Old 07-08-2009, 01:34 PM   #8
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Thanks Becker.
Now about the brakes. Im just now checking that part out. I do want the brakes to work on the trailer. The trailer has electric brakes and the motorhome has air, Just called one place and they want 80.00 for the controller plus 250.00 to install if the motorhome is prewired and 450.00 if its not. This is plus the cost of the controller.
Have you ever installed one??

Thanks Don and Barb
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Old 07-08-2009, 03:27 PM   #9
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I can reply to a similar weight being towed - my Liberty is 4,500. Not a rocket off the line, but once rolling does alright.
Regarding brakes - I put auxillary brake actuator on the Jeep. Just for piece of mind.
On the trailer, I would think a standard brake contoller would work, IIRC they work off the brake light circuit. A 12ga wire down the length of the MH to the trailer connector should be enough. Seems that I used a Prodigy Brake Controller when I towed a trailer with Pickup.
Might check here for more information - http://www.etrailer.com/faq-brakecontroller.aspx
Seems that $450 to install is high, but the Brake Controller will probably be $100 or more.
If you go this route, the Brake Switch is under the motorhome. If you connect to the switch you should have no problems with the "Jake" brake or Emergency Flashers interfering with the operation of the trailer brakes.
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Old 07-08-2009, 04:59 PM   #10
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Thanks Michael. Thats what I was looking for. Slow off the line but it will roll ok.
I will get the controller and install it for the trailer brakes. Better to have them then not.( 4 wires.I will do this myself and save the 450.00 what a rip off) The controller is 80.00.
How did your ISB5,9 do on hills?? We are going from Calif. to Sturgis and I know we will be hitting some hills or mountains.

Thanks Don and Barb
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Old 07-08-2009, 08:38 PM   #11
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Tcloud7......

No..... I have never installed one.

What is the length of your mh? I am a little concerned about the 23 ft trailer. Is the total weight of the trailer 5000 lbs including the load. Is the load static all of the time like a transporting vehicle, or do you carry different items at different times. You don't want the tail wagging the dog.

I have probably voiced more of an opinion on this subject than I should have, and it sounds like you've got a handle on all of it, so I am going to bow out. Here is another thread on the toad/weight situation that might that might be of some interest.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f85/the-p...ing-19087.html

Good luck.

Becker
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Old 07-09-2009, 06:59 AM   #12
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The important thing to remember on the hills is to watch your RPMs. I will manually down shift when I hit about 1500 - 1600 RPM. Another thing I learned (but sometimes forget) after you stop for the day, wait 30 - 45 minutes and hose out your radiator (if you have water availabel and not at the Wal-Mart). This will help keep the junk out of it and help you run cooler. I do it with a garden hose and a nozzle. Takes about 10 minutes, I think it helps.
When you do the Brake Controller, here is a picture of the brake switch on your Motorhome http://www.grossie.net/Michael/Photo...e%20Switch.jpg The white wire goes to the brake lights. I would connect to the switch that has the arrow pointing to it. This is the "first" switch in the series.

Good Luck.
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Old 07-09-2009, 09:00 AM   #13
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Becker. Thanks so mush for all your help. Yes the trailer will be at 5000lbs and no more. It will have 2 to 3 bikes in it depending on what the CVRW is for the trailer is and what the scale says. We are I'm going to weight the whole thing before we leave. I'm also going to weight the motorhome before we add the trailer.I,m aware of the weight distribution to avoid fishtailing.Again thanks for all your help.

Don and Barb
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Old 07-09-2009, 09:16 AM   #14
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Michael. I want to thank you also for all your help and the pic of the brake switch. I will be getting one and hooking it up next week.
As for the radiator yes I know about the heating issue with the rear radiator but I'am going to try your way from now on. I usually clean it a few times a year but like I said I,am going to do as you said just to keep the dust out..
On the hills I shift down about the same as you to where I can keep the RPMs at about 2200 to 2300 with the fuel about half way down. This has always helped with the heat issue just like it does with the big trucks. You can't lug most of them on big hills when its hot outside
Again thanks for the photo and all your help.

Don and Barb
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Old 07-11-2009, 02:28 PM   #15
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Michael. Did you ever hook up a brake controller to the motorhome. I need to know the color codes freightliner uses. Pics would be nice.

Thanks Don and Barb
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Old 07-12-2009, 07:51 AM   #16
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We towed a 5000 pound 20 foot enclosed Haulmark trailer with an 05 Journey with the 300 hp 5.9. Expect to see speeds down to 30-35 mph on 6 % grades. Over heating was never an issue, milage was still around 8-11 mpg. Like others have said keep an eye on your engine rpms.

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Old 07-12-2009, 10:44 AM   #17
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Thanks Jinandsue Yes I keep the rpms up to about 2500 going up hills pulling my Toyota P/U but it oney weights about 3200lbs
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Old 07-14-2009, 06:15 AM   #18
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Tcloud7 - I never hooked up a trailer brake controller. Have installed the UTB-1000 brake actuator for the Jeep. With that it was just a connection to the brake light switch. I'll try and load a section of the schematic that shows the wire colors later today. Will post here when complete.
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Old 07-14-2009, 07:48 AM   #19
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Here is a copy of the tail light wiring of the FL Schematic. You can enlarge it to read the wire colors. Hope this helps.
http://www.grossie.net/Michael/Photo...L_T_Lights.jpg
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Old 07-14-2009, 08:19 AM   #20
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Thanks Mike. I can make out Black(A)White(D)Yellow(E) and Red(C). Can you tell me the other 2?

Thanks Don and Barb
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