Toad braking

roaminhome · 12-16-2006, 02:01 PM

Hey folks - we just got a new toad and never had a braking system with the old one. I'm confused with all the different systems out there, and want to add one now (this toad is about 1,000 pounds more than the old). I like MSI, but would like some input from experienced RV'ers on their suggestions. If you have MSI, who installed the system. Thanks

roaminhome · 12-16-2006, 02:01 PM

Hey folks - we just got a new toad and never had a braking system with the old one. I'm confused with all the different systems out there, and want to add one now (this toad is about 1,000 pounds more than the old). I like MSI, but would like some input from experienced RV'ers on their suggestions. If you have MSI, who installed the system. Thanks

ron1492 · 12-16-2006, 02:54 PM

Hi,
check out this brake system. This is the one I'm ordering this spring. Looks very good to me.

http://vasebrake.com/

Mooneypaul · 12-16-2006, 04:32 PM

I have used the "Brake Buddy" for several years and it has performed well. However on long trips I have used a separate power source since I found it will run the car battery down.

John_Canfield · 12-17-2006, 03:17 AM

I'm a fan of SMI Stay-N-Play Silent Partner

. We have had great luck with it for 15,000+ miles in almost every possible road condition.

The 'brake in a box' system didn't appeal to me whatsoever - I wanted a permanent system with minimum set up time. Didn't want the hassle of what to do with the box when you don't need it - that's just one more thing to deal with in our limited storage lives.

My model of the SMI is wireless so installation time was greatly reduced. Being wireless means even if there is a wiring failure between the coach and car, the toad brakes will still operate. I can also select two different modes of operation: First mode is every time coach brakes are activated, toad brakes go on, second mode is when coach brakes are operated AND when deceleration reaches a user-defined setting toad brakes are activated.

The factory was very helpful when I had a question about the color of the brake lead in the Jeep - there must have been half a dozen wires on that brake switch.

roaminhome · 12-17-2006, 08:50 AM

Thanks for the input folks. I too wonder about what to do with the brake in a box - the vasebrake looks interesting - ron1492. What kind of separate power source did you use Moneypaul? John - did you install the SMI yourself and was it difficult? Thanks again folks - my dealer recommended the Brake Buddy.

Fred and Bonnie · 12-17-2006, 09:23 AM

Rob, check with your Honda dealers' service departament and see if they have had a bad experiences with certain brands, our Saturn dealer was happy to share their experiences.

Fred

Mutha · 12-17-2006, 01:14 PM

Rob, I highly recommend the M&G braking system. It is very simple. There is NO electric hook-up required. It has a small air cylinder that permantly mounts between the power brake booster and the master cylinder under the hood of the car (NOTHING is mounted inside the passenger compartment of the car);it has no effect on the car during normal operation, when not attached to the RV. There is a Air (or Air over Hydralic) proportioning valve that mounts into the Coach's rear brake line. You need the Small Aux. Air Compressor & Tank (sold separately) if you do not have air brakes on your coach. I have a W-20 with the Hydralic Brakes on my coach, so I have the Air Compressor & Tank installed on the rear of my coach frame. It is a very simple installation. Just ask ANYONE that has or uses a M&G and see what they tell you. My system was originally installed on my 2000 2830 TREK and I moved it to my new 2004 TREK with out any problem. It is the best system out there - BAR NONE, in my opinion.
Here is a link to their site:
http://www.m-gengineering.com/index.html

Good luck with your rig!

Glenn

John_Canfield · 12-17-2006, 01:50 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rob and lynn:
--snip-- John - did you install the SMI yourself and was it difficult?--snip-- </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Yes I did and I thought it was fairly simple and straightforward but I'm fairly handy with that sort of stuff.

One nice feature of the SMI (and also the US Gear product) I forgot to mention is it has a vacuum pump so light pressure/force is required to effectively brake. The brakes-in-a-box solutions must use quite a bit of pressure because the vacuum the brake booster needs disappears without the engine running after a couple of brake applications.

There have been problems (as I have heard) with some toad seats and brake-box designs where the box tends to jump up or work up to where it is out of position after a certain number of breaking operations.

NASAGuy · 12-17-2006, 02:02 PM

I have used the Brake Buddy for about four years now and have been very satisfied with it. It is relatively inexpensive,is easily installed, and can be transferred to other vehicles. Follow the pre-departure instuctions exactly-especially the part about cycling the unit 4-5 times to bleed off the vehicle's power brake system. If you don't the result may be four toad tires with giant flat spots.
The batteries in many toad vehicles can be drained while towing but in most cases it is not from using the Brake Buddy, but is due to some vehicle subsystems being active when the key is in the accessory position. On some long days our Brake Buddy comes on just a few times or not at all. Even so, I often hook a 10 amp battery charger to the battery at the end of the day and it takes and hour or so for the battery to reach full charge. There are workarounds on some vehicles such as pulling one or more specified fuses. But that is a pain plus you lose the radio settings every time you do it.
The best workaround is the one mentioned earlier that suggested running a charging line to the toad. I would do this myself if I was a little smarter about doing this type of thing.

NASAGuy in Titusville,FL

Gary the Wombat · 12-17-2006, 03:33 PM

We did a six week, 6K mile, trip this year using the Roadmaster EvenBrake system with great success. It never ran the battery down, and the wireless monitor in the coach would tell you if it was getting low anyway. I had the levels set at the lowest setting, so it only came on in "town" scenarios, but I could really feel it kick in.

Storing the box was never a problem--it either sat in a basement, or in the back of the toad, and setup was easy each time we had to install it.

zertrider · 12-17-2006, 05:39 PM

Any of the above systems work well, but the only question I have about the Vasebrake is how does it modulate brakeforce when on an incline? If pulling out of downhill driveway, it looks as though the brakes on the toad would still be actuated seeing as the actuator looks to be mounted on a set of linear bearings.

cookie monster · 12-17-2006, 07:01 PM

I realized very quickly after using a system similar to the brake buddy that messing around on my knees trying to get the sily thing hooked up wasn,t for me. I bought a M and G. Its so quick and easy and has worked flawlessly for several years. Most owners of M and G have graduated from other lesser systems and are very loyal owners.- John

Mooneypaul · 12-18-2006, 02:28 AM

Rob and Lynn - Honda is one of the vehicles that has trouble with the cig lighter as the power source. Brake Buddy supplied at no charge a cig lighter "female" that connects directly to the battery. I then can use the new adapter or plug the Brake Buddy into one of those portable jump start devices that has a cig lighter input. After we stop, I just charge that unit. But it lasts a couple of days without charging.

I guess the issue is Budget. I am sure the other systems mentioned work great and are much easier to use, but to they fit your budget?

John_Canfield · 12-18-2006, 04:15 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Gary the Wombat:
...snip... and setup was easy each time we had to install it. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I like my setup - I reach under the seat and flip the switch to the ON position

Hikerdogs · 12-18-2006, 04:26 AM

We've been using the RoadMaster BrakeMaster 9000 on our 01 Winnebago Adventurer for the last couple of years. It's a proportional braking system that works well and only takes a couple minutes to hook up once it's installed. I prefer it over a wireless system in that there is no possibility for communication interference.

I would have thought wireless would be an easier choice but for some reason there's a lot of interference (don't know if it's electrical, radio or what) in our neighborhood. It's so bad that sometimes the remotes for the car doors & garage door opener have trouble communicating.

The BrakeMaster 9000 uses an air cylinder to activate the brake pedal in the toad. It hooks to a bracket permanently mounted to the floor under the drivers seat and clamps over the pedal pad on the other end.

There is a compressor, reservoir, and proportioning valve mounted in the coach. The system can be installed in about a day. I installed ours but took a little longer because I'm a stickler for a professional looking job. I also added a manifold & quick connector so the compressor can be used to inflate tires or blow dirt off just about anything.

We've used it to tow our 04 Jeep Wrangler about 10,000 miles. (We were towing a Buick LeSabre on a dolly prior to buying the Jeep.) The nice thing about it is the ease of hookup and the fact that the air cylinder in the Jeep can be removed and stored in the back in less than a minute.