Protect- a Tow

jerboy · 03-09-2016, 02:20 PM

Is it possible to run the protect-a-tow above the tow bar instead of underneath? I have a 6 inch drop hitch with a roller on it to prevent tail drag in deep curbs. That would completely destroy to screen if it was under there.

Easyrider · 03-09-2016, 04:25 PM

It's probably do-able, but not sure how well it would work. I'd take a blanket and some clothes pins out to your rv and toad and clip the blanket on both units the way you want and see if you think it would work ok or not. We have the protect a tow and like the fact that it protects all the cables and wires between the 2 units from sagging and dragging on the ground.

JohnBoyToo · 03-09-2016, 05:43 PM

I've seen them split and seamed to allow that sort of thing, but like easy, I too sleep a little easier knowing the protect-a-tow keeps cables, etc... off the ground.

jerboy · 03-09-2016, 05:53 PM

Thanks for the replies. I guess the obvious answer is just don't drag the hitch.

dennis45 · 03-09-2016, 05:54 PM

I tried a Protec A Tow on top because of my rear exhaust. Not a great idea. It causes all the road debris to collect on the tow bar and accessories.
Then, I tried the other roll up Road Master screen below the tow bar. Another bad idea as it tended to drag on the ground. Then I Tried a Rock Guard which mounts to the top of the tow bar.
Then, I removed the rear flap completely and now don't use either device.

The rear flap was causing more problems than anything.

1ciderdog · 03-09-2016, 08:39 PM

I use the protect a tow above the tow bar and yes the tow bar gets dirty as mentioned above but wouldn't it anyway? I've used it for many make that MANY miles. Certainly much better than nothing, in my opinion.

JohnBoyToo · 03-09-2016, 08:42 PM

I've heard the rear rock guard/stone guard/whatever was actually the culprit in a lot of issues, and given what I saw today while driving in the rain, I might agree!
the dead air space behind the coach, was NOT dead air, it was swirling in all directions like it didn't know WHERE to go !

need to remember back to my old ChemE training about flow dynamics and boundary layer theorem to calculate what is happening

Sue46 · 03-10-2016, 03:39 AM

We just pull the PAT by the hitch so it is not under the hitch. If we drag the PAT doesn't get damaged. We have an 8" drop hitch and it works great.

dpinvidic · 03-10-2016, 10:30 AM

I have one, and this is what I would suggest.

You probably have the eyes mounted on the bottom of the rear cap.
I would try a bungee cord or re-position the eyes closer so that there is enough slack in the leading edge of the PAT to pull it up and around your hitch wheel.
Heck, there may be enough stretch in the PAT elastic cord to do that now and you would not need a bungee. (I think this is what SUE46 meant in the above post)

Another option is to use a soldering iron and cut the required clearance hole.
Melt the edges of the hole to create a solid strip around the hole for the wheel.
This plastic based material will melt easily.

Regards,

Dan

jerboy · 03-10-2016, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dpinvidic

I have one, and this is what I would suggest.

You probably have the eyes mounted on the bottom of the rear cap.
I would try a bungee cord or re-position the eyes closer so that there is enough slack in the leading edge of the PAT to pull it up and around your hitch wheel.
Heck, there may be enough stretch in the PAT elastic cord to do that now and you would not need a bungee. (I think this is what SUE46 meant in the above post)

Another option is to use a soldering iron and cut the required clearance hole.
Melt the edges of the hole to create a solid strip around the hole for the wheel.
This plastic based material will melt easily.

Regards,

Dan

I like the idea of cutting the hole for the wheel. That way there is less gap between the PAT and the rear of the coach.

Thanks

Americanrascal · 03-12-2016, 06:38 AM

This may not be directly on point but I offer it anyway in hopes it helps. I ran mine over the hitch and the top of our tow dolly all the way to Alaska and back from GA. I have a 6 inch drop down.

With the center bow stretch I had zero problems and it worked very well with no snagging, even though I had several protrusions above the frame between the hitch and the car on the dolly. I made my attachments in a drop down set up about 4 inches below the bumper where I connected it in 4 points. On the dolly I attached 2 eye's as far back as I could from the motor-home.

dpinvidic · 03-12-2016, 08:01 AM

The secondary reason I like the PAT,is that if my electrical cable or air line become disconnected, they wont get ruined be dragging on the ground.

Dan

jerboy · 03-12-2016, 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dpinvidic

The secondary reason I like the PAT,is that if my electrical cable or air line become disconnected, they wont get ruined be dragging on the ground.

Dan

It would make a nice catch basket for all those. And the hole for the drop down hitch seems like a simple thing to do.