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Old 03-19-2008, 03:36 AM   #41
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I turn the volume up on the rear camera. I can clearly hear when each arm locks as I pull forward. If I don't hear two clicks I stop and check the tow bar.
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Old 03-19-2008, 04:15 AM   #42
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by BCook57:
I hook up and then pull forward, with my DW watching to confirm everything locks into place and the toad is freewheeling.

Then I slow down enough to give her a chance to jump into an open storage bay and let her out at the next fuel stop.

Results in a safe towing situation and an unusually quiet ride. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

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Old 03-19-2008, 05:06 AM   #43
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I also use a Sterling bar and a few times I have pushed my car back by hand to lock the bars, but mostly my wife watches and confirms the bars are locked while I pull the coach forward.

-Tom
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Old 03-19-2008, 05:13 AM   #44
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I believe the damage had nothing to do with backing the toad up to lock the arms, or pulling forward with the motorhome to lock the arms, or driving forward with one arm locked and turning. After hearing about how bent the V-portion was, this was clearly caused by something else...maybe backing up the toad with the motorhome which generally causes this portion of the tow bar to bend and stress.
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Old 03-19-2008, 05:47 AM   #45
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Like Fred, I too use the toad brakes to hold back the car until I can see both arms fully extended in the monitor. This especially important when you're taking off on a down slope. It also confirms that toad brakes are operating correctly and you're good to go.
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Old 03-19-2008, 06:27 AM   #46
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by FrontRangeRVer:
I believe the damage had nothing to do with backing the toad up to lock the arms, or pulling forward with the motorhome to lock the arms, or driving forward with one arm locked and turning. After hearing about how bent the V-portion was, this was clearly caused by something else...maybe backing up the toad with the motorhome which generally causes this portion of the tow bar to bend and stress. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I agree. There is more involved here than a fraction of a mile an hour 6 inch movement.

-Tom
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Old 03-19-2008, 06:29 AM   #47
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by BCook57:
I hook up and then pull forward, with my DW watching to confirm everything locks into place and the toad is freewheeling.

Then I slow down enough to give her a chance to jump into an open storage bay and let her out at the next fuel stop.

Results in a safe towing situation and an unusually quiet ride. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>



I usually, let my Darling Bride jump in the open entry door. The journey's not as quiet, but the next stop sure is!

All kidding aside, That is what her half of the start-up job is about. After light checks, she verifies that the arms are locked as I pull the MH forward (Blue OX Aventa) Then re-verifies that the Toad is in Nuetral, Brakes off, steering unlocked, and that the toad brakes are working (I hit the manual lever to activate them). This works every time. I also monitor the toad in my "scan" using the rear view monitor as I drive along.

Anal retentive? Maybe, but I have seen some Toads completely destroyed by not paying attention (2 with my own eyes).

Just my $0.02 worth.
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Old 03-19-2008, 06:32 AM   #48
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by N8XV:
I turn the volume up on the rear camera. I can clearly hear when each arm locks as I pull forward. If I don't hear two clicks I stop and check the tow bar. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Probably over cautious but I like to visually confirm that my Sterling is locked.

-Tom
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Old 03-19-2008, 07:35 AM   #49
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by BCook57:
I hook up and then pull forward, with my DW watching to confirm everything locks into place and the toad is freewheeling.

Then I slow down enough to give her a chance to jump into an open storage bay and let her out at the next fuel stop.

Results in a safe towing situation and an unusually quiet ride. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Occasionally I do things a little differently. I let my wife ride IN the toad.

-Tom
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Old 03-19-2008, 12:59 PM   #50
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OK Here's My $.02.

I puul the Jeep up to where i can hook up the Arms. Connect arms,safety cables, light chord and Breakaway.
Then Back up Jeep until at least one arm locks.
Then Transfer case in Neutral and Trnsmission in Park.
Then with DW watching I pull the C0ach ahead in a big 'S' until the other arm locks, DW also confirms wheels rolling and steering turning,
Then Brake Buddy install and Light Check.

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Old 03-19-2008, 04:54 PM   #51
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Next time I'll get the SMI so that I can activate the brakes also and pull forward and lock the arms. For now I'll back up very slowly and carefully until they CLICK. I've seen people pull out so fast that they just about pull the front end of their toad right off the car. Then there is the time when the toad is running down hill and wants to hit the MH bumper because the arms are not locked and the toad is free wheeling into the rear end of the coach. NOT FUN. Been there done that. Great fourm, we all learn as we, and others go, and post. More than 1 way to do things right.
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Old 03-19-2008, 06:56 PM   #52
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I agree with park ridge dave. The BH does a visual check of MH and toad lights as I operate them from the drivers seat and then watches to insure both pins on the towbar snap in to the up and locked position as I move the coach forward.
The only time I back the toad to lock the pins is when I am performing the operation without her assistance (supervision dear !! )
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Old 03-20-2008, 02:05 AM   #53
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I read my manual (roadmaster sterling) last night and it mentioned a few things to watch for. Make sure tow bar is level, not more than 3 inches high or 4 inches low at the towed end. Make sure your safety cables/chains are long enough when turning. Some motor homes have a turning radius that is too tight for the tow bar. They recommend testing your turning with vehicle in tow in a parking lot to see what your max turn radius would be and not go beyond that when towing. They say that damage to tow bar caused by these conditions would not be covered under warranty.
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Old 03-20-2008, 04:09 AM   #54
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Don, I'm not sure what Roadmaster would consider to be too tight a radius. I've had to turn in tight spaces with the toad attached and I took it around as tight as I could because of the surroundings. I admit that it was at a very slow speed and that may have helped. When we first started towing, I did exactly what was recommended - took the rig to an empty mall lot, had DW drive through several turns and watched what was happening to the safety cables and other connections. I put electrical cable ties loosely on one of the bars after that to help hold those connection cables up through turns. I have the light cable, an air line for the toad brake and the breakaway cable run through those loops. In 30k miles of towing since then, we've not had any problems.

Mine is a Falcon2 and I frequently inspect it and the base plate for any signs of wear, damage or looseness. The only thing that I worry about more than a blowout on the MH is a problem with the tow setup and my attention is devoted accordingly.
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Old 03-21-2008, 06:20 AM   #55
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Don G:
Some motor homes have a turning radius that is too tight for the tow bar. They recommend testing your turning with vehicle in tow in a parking lot to see what your max turn radius would be and not go beyond that when towing. They say that damage to tow bar caused by these conditions would not be covered under warranty. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Maybe you could expand on this. I have never heard or read of this.

We turn our motorhome as tight as we can sometimes, and we have clearance, and there isn't any damage to the towbar.
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Old 03-21-2008, 07:05 AM   #56
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Old 03-21-2008, 07:37 AM   #57
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Don G:
&lt;snip&gt; Some motor homes have a turning radius that is too tight for the tow bar. They recommend testing your turning with vehicle in tow in a parking lot to see what your max turn radius would be and not go beyond that when towing. They say that damage to tow bar caused by these conditions would not be covered under warranty. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>


Yeah, I just got to thinking about this advice.

How would you do this!!? If you were to test your turning radius in a parking lot to see just how much of a turning radius your tow bar could take, wouldn't you be ruining your tow bar in the process?????
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Old 03-21-2008, 07:42 AM   #58
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">If you were to test your turning radius in a parking lot to see just how much of a turning radius your tow bar could take, wouldn't you be ruining your tow bar in the process????? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

IMHO, you need someone to walk along, watching the tow bar to see if it hits any built in stops to it's movement, and also to see if the toad hits the MH or the ladder.
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Old 03-21-2008, 08:20 AM   #59
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*laughs* Once again my naivete shines through!

Ah, ok, I see what we're talking about ...thanks for clarifying that, Dirk.

Yeah, I could just see myself getting in a parking lot to test the turning radius of the coach with the toad attached and turning to the point where I'd bend the tow bar in the process and then saying to myself "yep, I can't go past THAT point when turning or I'll ruin another tow bar."
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Old 03-21-2008, 08:29 AM   #60
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