Big Bend/Carlsbad/Palo Duro Canyon trip

[Trout One]

So after a couple of years of building up to a month on the road in the desert southwest, we laid plans in early 2021 to visit our eldest and her husband in Dallas over Christmas and then make a big loop from there to Big Bend NP, Davis Mountains SP in Fort Davis, TX, Carlsbad Caverns NP (can't skip the alien museum in Roswell), and Palo Duro Canyon SP near Amarillo. I'd been to Big Bend with a retired geologist friend ten years ago in a pair of Miatas in early spring and wanted Pat to see just how much nothing was in this part of the country.

We spent four nights in Terlingua as the National Park campgrounds were all booked up six months out but had much better luck with the state parks in Texas, Arkansas, and Tennessee. Stayed at a KOA outside of Carlsbad as New Mexico's state parks weren't open when we were making reservations. Spent four days in Big Bend (should have spent a couple more), three days in Fort Davis, two days in Carlsbad and Roswell, and four days at Palo Duro Canyon SP and could have stayed another couple of days hiking there, as well. We found the shuttle stops at San Angelo State Park, White Oak Lake and Lake Catherine SPs in Arkansas, and Cedar Hill SP outside of Dallas were all excellent campgrounds. We spent four days at Christmas in Dallas, plus two days at Hot Springs NP in Arkansas and another night in Dallas on the return loop.


For all the nothing, we saw a lot. Learned a lot. Got to see some tremendously cool art around Fort Davis and Marfa and at the Cadillac Ranch outside of Amarillo. Got to step outside the trailer and see the Milky Way in Big Bend and Fort Davis and learned about dark sky parks and the efforts underway at the NPS to bring dark skies to more of their parks. Dealt with 14 degree nights and 50 mph winds in Fort Davis and Carlsbad, learned that the smoke outside the KOA wasn't smoke - it was dust from the pecan harvesting, and that propane lines can freeze up in the middle of the night, especially if you have cheap brass gauges on them. Met wonderful people in the most unexpected places, like the owners of 6 Whiskey and Cactus Liquors in Marfa.

Most of all, we got to be back out west again after our last trip 25 years ago with the kids when they were in high school.

Here's a couple of photos from Santa Elena in the western end of Big Bend National Park, on the Rio Grande.

[Eagle5]

Great report. I always enjoy seeing information of these areas which are relatively remote for me. One of these days, I must tour a little Texas, New Mexico, etc.
Thanks, Eagle5

[rprochnow]

We're staying outside of Fort Davis now for a dark skies event and spent several days last week by Big Bend National Park at the Maverick Ranch RV Resort, playing golf on a great course in the hills and along the border.

Last summer we also visited Big Bend, staying at the same resort, playing golf and hiking in the national park.

Temperatures can be high - last week we had high temps around 104 for several days - like it was hot last June when we visited. But the mornings were pleasant for hiking and golf.

Last summer we also stopped at Carlsbad on our way back from the Rocky Mountain National Park - and also visited the Capulin Volcano National Monument. Since our 2021 View 24D is only 25' long, we were able to drive up to the top and hike around the top of the volcano rim - great view up there.

While there are a lot of wide open spaces in west Texas - there are also a number of interesting places to stop - along with Carlsbad, just over the border in New Mexico.

[Eagle5]

You might be able to see Mercury just after the sun sets:
Mercury at night: Greatest elongation is April 29
Eagle5

[rprochnow]

We're actually at the Texas Star Party right now - with a couple hundred amateur astronomers up most of the night...

Without any major cities (or anything) nearby - skies are very, very dark and great for stargazing!

[Eagle5]

That sounds wonderful.
With as much rain as South Bend gets, many nights I have to make due with this web site:
The Astronomy Pic of the Day
Thanks, Eagle5

[rprochnow]

Fort Davis is in a drought - only had a threat of rain one night - and that passed quickly. Otherwise, clear skies most of the time.

Probably why they're holding the star party here - and at this time of year - when the temps have been ranging from 70-80s daytime to upper 40-50s nighttime.

[SeeTheUSA]

All the places mentioned are super cool. I’m surprised the other National Park in Texas, Guadalupe Mountains NP, wasn’t on the list. Highest point in Texas! Awesome place. Incredibly interesting geology.

[rprochnow]

Just a matter of time...

[Trout One]

Originally Posted by SeeTheUSA

All the places mentioned are super cool. I’m surprised the other National Park in Texas, Guadalupe Mountains NP, wasn’t on the list. Highest point in Texas! Awesome place. Incredibly interesting geology.

We went through Guadalupe Mountains NP but didn't spend any time there. Should have. We didn't spend long enough in Big Bend or Palo Duro, spent a day two long in Fort Davis (didn't realize Alpine was just another thriving west Texas town), and didn't spend any time in the Guadalupe Mountains. We drove through the pass, however, in 60 mph winds without incident.

With our daughter in Dallas, though, it's only a matter of time before we look into other places in Texas.

[SeeTheUSA]

Originally Posted by Trout One

We went through Guadalupe Mountains NP but didn't spend any time there. Should have. We didn't spend long enough in Big Bend or Palo Duro, spent a day two long in Fort Davis (didn't realize Alpine was just another thriving west Texas town), and didn't spend any time in the Guadalupe Mountains. We drove through the pass, however, in 60 mph winds without incident.

With our daughter in Dallas, though, it's only a matter of time before we look into other places in Texas.

We volunteered as campground hosts at the Pine Springs Campground in Guadalupe Mountains National Park (GMNP) a couple of years ago … and the WIND is a big deal. 60 mph is like a light breeze elsewhere! Not uncommon to get 100+ straight line winds through the canyon and campground. The camphost site has shackles in the concrete pad for chaining down the hosts’ rig. While skeptical at first that they would ever be needed, I hastily had to slap on those chains within a couple of days. When the wind got up to a sustained 75ish mph, I got out and connected them as our rig (then a Tiffin DP) bobbed around like a cork. The wind climbed to over 100 mph several times.

In spite of that, GMNP is a phenomenal place. Hope you get back there. Keep an eye on the weather forecast!

[dnta]

I’ve known folks who went to Big Bend & never realized the natural hot springs are there. I love them. You can sit in the hot springs and put your arm into the ‘flowing past’ Rio Grande or even move back & forth between the two. It’s heavenly. You can see a couple unidentifiable folks sitting on ledge between concrete springs area & river, though not much of springs show here. There’s room for maybe 15-20 at a time but that would be quite crowded. I have better spring shots but don’t want to display all the folks in there.

[Trout One]

We knew about them; just didn't take the time to check them out. Next trip...

Great photo, BTW.