Splendide Washer Quit working
Posted 07-19-2022 at 07:57 AM by HiBanky
There are any number of things that can go wrong with a Splendide WD2000s Washer Dryer Combo. In this case, when the washer stopped in mid-cycle the settings knob rotated continuously and the “Status/Door Lock” light flashed twice every eight seconds. A quick search on the internet provided a service manual (TRAINMAN_Complete.pdf) that explained the flashing code and the procedure for testing various components. The flashing light code meant the motor had a problem.
In my 2005 Journey the back of the washer can be accessed by pulling out the two middle drawers and one cross support of the dresser under the bedroom TV. After removing the washer’s back panel to access the motor connections I was able to test the motor using a jumper wire and a live 120V AC line. The instructions don’t mention this but I disconnected the wire harness from the circuit board so not to fry it. Sure enough, the test reviled no spin on low speed and high speed spun for only a second or two.
It doesn’t look possible but, with some twisting, turning and pushing on the drum, the motor will come out from the back of the washer. The hard part is getting a 10mm wrench on the nut in back on the right side. Pull the screw on the left first, remove the drive belt then swing the motor down to access the right nut. Looking at the motor commutator I could see it was burned which is a sure sign the brushes are worn out. Removal and inspection of the brushes proved this to be true. Oddly, one was completely shot but the other looked new. Using the phone number in the owners guide, (1800-356-0766) I order a new brush for $47. I later found the same ones for $8 a pair on line. With 600 grit aluminum oxide emery paper the commutator cleaned up just fine. Removing the brushes, wrapping the emery paper around the commutator, and spinning the armature with a drill motor made short work of this. After installing the new brushes I ran another bench test with good results.
Reinstalling the motor can be challenging but by taping the nuts in place first, it goes a little easer. Once the motor is in place and the long screws have been started into the nuts the tape can be removed and a 10 mm box end wrench can be fitted over the nuts for tightening. Do the nut on the right, replace the belt, then swing the motor into place for the left screw. Plug in all the connectors and its ready for a test run. If all goes well, replace the back panel and its ready for a load of laundry.
In my 2005 Journey the back of the washer can be accessed by pulling out the two middle drawers and one cross support of the dresser under the bedroom TV. After removing the washer’s back panel to access the motor connections I was able to test the motor using a jumper wire and a live 120V AC line. The instructions don’t mention this but I disconnected the wire harness from the circuit board so not to fry it. Sure enough, the test reviled no spin on low speed and high speed spun for only a second or two.
It doesn’t look possible but, with some twisting, turning and pushing on the drum, the motor will come out from the back of the washer. The hard part is getting a 10mm wrench on the nut in back on the right side. Pull the screw on the left first, remove the drive belt then swing the motor down to access the right nut. Looking at the motor commutator I could see it was burned which is a sure sign the brushes are worn out. Removal and inspection of the brushes proved this to be true. Oddly, one was completely shot but the other looked new. Using the phone number in the owners guide, (1800-356-0766) I order a new brush for $47. I later found the same ones for $8 a pair on line. With 600 grit aluminum oxide emery paper the commutator cleaned up just fine. Removing the brushes, wrapping the emery paper around the commutator, and spinning the armature with a drill motor made short work of this. After installing the new brushes I ran another bench test with good results.
Reinstalling the motor can be challenging but by taping the nuts in place first, it goes a little easer. Once the motor is in place and the long screws have been started into the nuts the tape can be removed and a 10 mm box end wrench can be fitted over the nuts for tightening. Do the nut on the right, replace the belt, then swing the motor into place for the left screw. Plug in all the connectors and its ready for a test run. If all goes well, replace the back panel and its ready for a load of laundry.
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