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Old 03-10-2017, 09:42 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTegarini View Post
Sorry to have to say 'welcome' to this club. I've been a member for quite some time. I spent $3,800 to do what I thought was the proper, long-term repair, which included replacing both windshield glass, grinding and replacing sections of the windshield frame and replacement of the Reveal molding. About 18 months or so later, I discovered it was all for not.

So, when I discovered that the rusted / leaking windshield frame issue was back, I bought 4" electrical tape from Amazon. Other widths are available but this seems to have been a good choice for me, as it is wide enough to reach from the front-cap, over the Reveal molding, and down to the windshield glass. Also, the tape is super flexible so it's easier to lay down and reposition as you go along and if you want to replace it, as I just did, no mess to deal with upon removal. -RT
Could you mention where you got that $3800 work done? And maybe explain a little how the job went? Any thoughts on why it didn't work very long?

Thanks!
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Old 03-10-2017, 01:06 PM   #16
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Simple windshield fix

I don't care for all the external tape and other such fixes. This is what I used and it lasted 3 year, until I traded it.
Go to your auto parts store and buy a tube of 3M BLACK weather strip adhesive.
Remove the rubber trim above the windshield. You can see that there is a small space between the glass and the metal frame (Where they originally glued the windshield in.) Clean this space as thoroughly as possible and make sure it is dry. Start at one end and flow in the adhesive, filling the gap. Let sit until dry. It will flow into all the small cracks.
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Old 03-10-2017, 01:15 PM   #17
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I think Im gonna sub just incase,, my turn will come before long
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Old 03-11-2017, 02:14 PM   #18
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Same issue on my 2012 Journey - leaking Windshield.
To properly diagnose, I removed the plastic trim along the inside (removed 3 screws and could not get screwdriver in the corner, so I just broke the plastic.)

Then I could clearly see it was between the metal frame and windshield. i took it to local glass place and they removed and replaced the windshield. While it was out they cleaned and did rust converter and repainted the frame. approximately $3500, but they worked with my Good Sam (American General) insurance so it was only my $500 deductable. They give a lifetime leak warranty.

I just left tan plastic strip out, you don't see the black metal frame.

Good luck to all with the dreaded leaking windshield.
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Old 03-11-2017, 07:26 PM   #19
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We had water pouring in our windshield when driving in the rain for the first time.

Here's why, a horrible bedding and installation at the factory. I couldn't believe there was next to no caulk under the windshield!



Fortunately, I caught it early and made them re-bed the windshield under warranty.

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Old 03-12-2017, 12:24 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim_HiTek View Post
Could you mention where you got that $3800 work done? And maybe explain a little how the job went? Any thoughts on why it didn't work very long?

Thanks!
I had the work done locally and was a three-step process. First, the glass company pulled the windshield glass. Second, the motorhome was sent to a auto body repair faculty that did all the metal grinding, cut out and replaced sections the were too far gone, primered and painted. Last, it went back to the glass shop for installation of new glass.

I'm no expert on why the failures, but think it is in part due to the way Winnebago installs and seals the windshields. I'm told that the Winnebago-approved windshield sealant drys into a hard, crystal-like sealant, with no give once dry. (Which is why the glass frequently gets broken trying to remove it.) I think rough highways, pulling into / out of driveways, etc., eventually puts cracks into the sealant. Add in the factor that the windshield molding, called Reveal molding, doesn't actually seal to anything, allowing water get behind it and then through the cracked sealant. Additionally, I'm told that there is no real provision for the water that does get behind the Reveal molding to drain out, so it sits and rusts out the windshield frame. -RT
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Old 03-12-2017, 08:25 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skeetobite View Post
We had water pouring in our windshield when driving in the rain for the first time.

Here's why, a horrible bedding and installation at the factory. I couldn't believe there was next to no caulk under the windshield!



Fortunately, I caught it early and made them re-bed the windshield under warranty.

Skeetobite, You nailed it! Bad Sealant job.

For those reading this post in the Winnebago forum, please note this is a Fleetwood product.
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Old 03-12-2017, 08:49 PM   #22
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I too had the dreaded Winnebago leaking windshield issue on my 07 Journey due to a rusted windshield frame. I pulled both windshields out several years back as I started to see water run down the inside of the glass.

I have a great glass guy. He has replaced many windshields in Winnebago's in my (prior) shop due to cracked glass, and then when removed, discovering rusted windshield frames. We did the rust repair. He replaced the glass.

In my case, we knew that once I saw the water running down the inside of the windshield, it was the Dreaded Windshield Rusted Frame issue. We were lucky in that when he pulled both windshields, neither broke. We then repaired the rusted frame, ground it down, primed it with a 2-part epoxy primer, and then re-installed the windshields.

I have posted prior that I had the unfortunate luck of having a rock hit my windshield a little over a year ago, cracking the glass. Pulled the glass, inspected the frame, and it was perfect. No rust. Replaced the glass and on with life.

Since our shop has repaired several Winnies with the Dreaded Windshield Rust issue, I will try to offer my opinion on why it happens. But first, I must say, that the design of the Winnie windshield glass/frame system offers greater strength than many of the competitors. Just today there is a post on an owner's windshield popping out on another owner's forum thread.

My opinion: Winnie preps the frames and powder coats most of its metal. Problem with powder coating, is if moisture gets behind it, it begins to rust. Secondly, the manufacturing process is 1) prep metal, 2) tack weld L-brackets on bottom of frame to hold glass. Finished metal is permeated by the tack weld process (nor do I think the L-bracket is properly finished) causing moisture to get behind it, and causes rust. The windshield is then installed with a urethane bead which forms a strong, firm bond between the glass and the metal. The top of the windshield glass has a lip which holds moisture under the T-molding (which is not designed to keep moisture out) and provides a channel for moisture to be retained next to the metal. If the metal prep fails, which most will over time, rust will form.

I can think of design changes which may have helped, but I will not elaborate on my guesses on re-engineering.

My recommendation is that if you do see leaks on the inside of the glass, or are seeing metal flakes on the dash, it's most likely due to a rusted windshield frame. Be prepared to take it to a shop which can do the metal work, and works with a good glass company to remove and replace the glass. Do your research on the best way to remove the rust and prep the metal. Many have used POR-15, which I think is a good product. A urethane primer under the urethane sealant system to the glass is a good idea. Do your research.

A point of maintenance may be to pull the T-moldings off every several years to inspect for rust underneath them, and at a minimum, clean the grime under them which will hold in moisture. Before you do this, contact a glass shop or other supplier who can get you new moldings if for some reason they are damaged, or shrink when/after you remove them. This way you may be able to do preemptive maintenance which may hold for a couple more years before having to do the 'Full Monty' rust repair with glass removal.

The reason for seeing cracked glass when the rust occurs, is that the rust expands on the frame, causing a pressure point on the glass, which cracks the glass. The system is designed to be a firm bond between the glass and frame, making a strong front end (this is a good thing). The rust can cause the glass to break, with no apparent rock hit.

I know this is a controversial issue. Trying to help based on my personal experience.
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Old 03-12-2017, 08:50 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTegarini View Post
I had the work done locally and was a three-step process. First, the glass company pulled the windshield glass. Second, the motorhome was sent to a auto body repair faculty that did all the metal grinding, cut out and replaced sections the were too far gone, primered and painted. Last, it went back to the glass shop for installation of new glass.

I'm no expert on why the failures, but think it is in part due to the way Winnebago installs and seals the windshields. I'm told that the Winnebago-approved windshield sealant drys into a hard, crystal-like sealant, with no give once dry. (Which is why the glass frequently gets broken trying to remove it.) I think rough highways, pulling into / out of driveways, etc., eventually puts cracks into the sealant. Add in the factor that the windshield molding, called Reveal molding, doesn't actually seal to anything, allowing water get behind it and then through the cracked sealant. Additionally, I'm told that there is no real provision for the water that does get behind the Reveal molding to drain out, so it sits and rusts out the windshield frame. -RT
Thanks for that helpful explanation.
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Old 03-12-2017, 09:10 PM   #24
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While you guys have your ladders out, be sure and inspect your front and back End Cap sealant for integrity. Also check the roof to side aluminum rail seal from front to back and on both sides of your rig.
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Old 03-13-2017, 06:15 AM   #25
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Well this thread has convinced me to take more action on my club membership. Sealing the front cap/roof joint, the clearance lites, drilling a small hole in the lenses, and sealing the front cap trim where the gutter ends and runs onto it seems to have for now fixed the problem. But I have done nothing with the rubber strip above the windshield.

My fix will be to use the black tape recommended by RT above and also put the flexible guttering above that. I have no doubt we have frame rusting starting behind the rubber, so time to be proactive.

How does one pull the rubber trim strip at the top of the windshield off and reinstall?
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Old 03-13-2017, 06:55 AM   #26
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Well this thread has convinced me to take more action on my club membership. Sealing the front cap/roof joint, the clearance lites, drilling a small hole in the lenses, and sealing the front cap trim where the gutter ends and runs onto it seems to have for now fixed the problem. But I have done nothing with the rubber strip above the windshield.

My fix will be to use the black tape recommended by RT above and also put the flexible guttering above that. I have no doubt we have frame rusting starting behind the rubber, so time to be proactive.

How does one pull the rubber trim strip at the top of the windshield off and reinstall?
The rubber trim just pulls off. It has a protrusion on the back that fits into a plastic channel that is stuck to the steel frame with double stick tape. If you have gotten grime/water behind the rubber trim, the channel might release when you pull the rubber off. If so, clean it up, apply new tape and stick it back on.

Don (Pusherman) has nailed it. I owned a 2002 Journey for 8 years and had a passenger side glass break due to windshield frame rust. I had a trusted body shop work with Guardian Glass to fix mine. When they were done, I removed the upper rubber trim and completely filled the void between the fiberglass cap and the windshield with proflex caulk/sealant. Once it cured I re-installed the rubber trim. My thinking was if I could fill that void, it would be less likely to fill up with dirt and moisture. Four years after the fix, we traded the coach (in 2013). I spoke last fall to the fellow who bought the coach and he said he was having no trouble with the windshields.

IMO, a better design for Winnebago would have been to finish the fiberglass surrounding the windshield better and to have it fit so that it left a 1/2 inch gap around the perimeter of the glass. Then, seal the windshield with urethane sealant and fill the 1/2 gap with something like Sikaflex. That would seal everything and keep water from getting to the frame.
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Old 03-13-2017, 06:59 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by georgelesley View Post
How does one pull the rubber trim strip at the top of the windshield off and reinstall?
I'm also in the club. If the rubber strip on yours is like ours, its easy. You may have to remove the trim pieces on each side of the wind shield first. Just grab onto the strip at the end and slowly but firmly pull it away. It just pops into a plastic strip behind it. To reinstall I just got it started and tapped it back in with my fist. A couple of spots required light taps with a rubber mallet.

Once removed I could see some rust between the plastic "retainer" strip and the windshield. I cleaned it out best I could and dried it out. Next I bought 3M windshield sealer in a caulk gun tube from and auto parts store and filled in as much of the gap possible. That lasted a for a couple of years. Then I got a small leak again in about the same spot. A small bead of Lexan sealant has stopped that for another couple of years. Now it just started again.

I have read that sometimes the marker lights above the windshield may leak. To test where it came from I just ran a garden hose from the lowest suspect spot to the highest. It started leaking right at the top of the windshield.

The passenger side never leaked so of course that one was the one that cracked and was replaced no charge by our full glass coverage.
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Old 03-13-2017, 07:13 AM   #28
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I thought my windshield or marker/clearance lights were leaking on our 2016 Adventurer 38Q when we found the dreaded puddle of water on the dash in front of the passenger seat.

The first time in the shop they were convinced it was the clearance lights. That wasn't the problem and the leak continued. After a second round of tests at another service shop (sonic- not seal tech test method the second time) they found the seal between the front cab cap and the fiberglass roof was leaking like a sieve. On the second visit visit the service center did the sonic test, found the joint leak, cut out the old sealant and put a very heavy bead (about 1 1/2 inch thick) on and into the joint.

I climbed up to the roof to check the work and it is not a pretty seal, but no one is driving by looking at the beauty of the roof of the rig.

The bottom line is it worked well and no more leaks!
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