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Old 08-29-2011, 12:33 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by AFChap View Post
My windshield rust problem came to light in May 2007 when the passenger side glass started leaking at the top near the center. On inspection I found a clearance lamp directly "upstream" that had water inside the lens. The mounting screws for the clearance lamp were severely rusted indicating it had been leaking for quite some time. After finding rust on the driver side frame the dealer recommended they remove both windshields to R&R the frame. The dealer said they could remove the glass without damaging it but could not guarantee that. I agreed, and they destroyed both windshields getting them out. There was minimal rust except in just a few places where it was quite extensive. The repair drug on for 21 days and was a comedy of errors by the dealership service department. One example, after checking their resealing of the clearance lamps I refused to pay for that at all and they removed it from the bill. The final result was just under $2,500. The dealer said Winnebago refused any good faith "participation." I sent Winnebago a rational email with photos, and they came through with just under $1,000.

I check the front clearance lamps every six months, and reseal them as required. I don't understand why the front lamps tend to leak, and the identical type on the rear do not. One key may be that the gaskets are obviously different front to rear (harder rubber on rear), and the front are held in place by screws while the rear are held in place by pop-rivets.

My coach has a Spartan chassis ...but of course the chassis has nothing to do with the metal cage and windshield frame Winnebago welds to the top of the chassis. Having taken tours of the factory and watched the multiple-dip metal treatment and painting process, I was surprised by the extent of rust many have around the windshield, and that I and some others have had in other areas.
My windshield rust on the top frame member was caused by someone at the Winnebago factory scribing some kind of a window alignment line all the way across. The scribe line went completely through the paint and rust followed (gee, what a surprise). Winnebago pretty much gave me the bird when I sent my rational e-mail and photos in, stating that my one-year warranty period was over. Looks like the times have changed at Winnebago.
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Old 10-03-2011, 06:35 PM   #42
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Took my top molding off today. Yup. Rusty.

Think I'm going to have to just caulk it up for now. It's stored indoors, so I just need to keep it from leaking when I drive in the rain, or rains when we're on vacation. Long term real fix options aren't too pretty....
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:12 PM   #43
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Took my top molding off today. Yup. Rusty.

Think I'm going to have to just caulk it up for now. It's stored indoors, so I just need to keep it from leaking when I drive in the rain, or rains when we're on vacation. Long term real fix options aren't too pretty....
Tim -

Once the rust gets started no amount of caulking will slow it down. Your best bet (while leaving the glass in) would be to remove all the moldings and go after whatever rust you can see with a product like The Must for Rust (by Krud Kutter), then paint everything you can reach with POR-15. The POR-15 encapsulates the rust and actually hardens when exposed to water (clean up with brake cleaner!). Short of taking the glass out, this is about the best you can do. I also caulked, but under the molding and after the POR-15. The moldings don't keep the water out as they are only for looks. Be sure to build up the area at the top of the windshields so water can't pool against the metal frame there.
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Old 10-05-2011, 11:46 AM   #44
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I bought a '99 Winnebago new 7/2/99, went to Iowa for repairs spring of 2000. One of the repairs was for a leak inside windshield right corner.They caulked the front cap, which had nothing to due with the leak. I've had @ least four windshields replaced due to cracks developing, each time the glass people said it was because of the Winnebago design allowing water in that caused the rust in the first place. The frame was cleaned up as best it could be and treated each time. No it was not the lights above causing it or starting it, althought I did replace the flimsy gaskets that they used. I'm now having the upper & lower steel support frames replaced due to their advanced rusting. I will address water intrusion behind the "Reveal" when the work is completed with Butyl tape which is probably what Winnebago should have done in the first place.
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Old 10-17-2011, 12:56 PM   #45
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OK, came up with a short term "fix".

I used some 2" wide clear tape, cut down to about 1.5" to keep it from leaking. With the molding off, I put the tape over the area where the molding goes. Sliced the tape where the molding goes in, and put the molding back on.

That's keeping it from leaking (drove through some rain already). But I need to deal with the rust. Cleaning what I can see is about useless, it's a small area that can be seen, and the real problem rust is under the windshield anyway.

I'm tempted to tell my insurance company what's up and see what they say. Fixing the rust will only cost the labor to remove and install the windshield. It'll cost the price of a windshield more if I wait for it to crack. Don't know that they'd see it that way.
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Old 10-18-2011, 05:52 AM   #46
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Tim, look at this link. Been using this product for awhile to restore auto and truck frames and body items. It will protect the areas t comes in contact with,but where moisture can get under it the area can still rust. So if you can keep the surface area sealed next to the application it will last a long time.

http://www.magnetpaints.com/MSDS-TECH/TDS_UCP99.pdf

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Old 10-18-2011, 09:09 AM   #47
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OK, came up with a short term "fix".

I used some 2" wide clear tape, cut down to about 1.5" to keep it from leaking. With the molding off, I put the tape over the area where the molding goes. Sliced the tape where the molding goes in, and put the molding back on.

That's keeping it from leaking (drove through some rain already). But I need to deal with the rust. Cleaning what I can see is about useless, it's a small area that can be seen, and the real problem rust is under the windshield anyway.

I'm tempted to tell my insurance company what's up and see what they say. Fixing the rust will only cost the labor to remove and install the windshield. It'll cost the price of a windshield more if I wait for it to crack. Don't know that they'd see it that way.
Tim -

No one on this forum to date has had any luck with asking their insurance company to cover a rust repair. If you do go forward, please let us know how your company responds. I am also uncertain as to whether an insurance company would cover a windshield that was broken due to bubbling rust if they knew that was the cause. This is my real fear; if the insurance companies stop covering these $2k - $3K glass repairs, where will that leave us owners?

Mark
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Old 10-19-2011, 05:33 PM   #48
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Exitstrategy,

Do you think the problem stopped with introduction the one piece window (06-07).

When you said you can inspect the rust by removing the side molding, are you referring to the inside molding?
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:13 PM   #49
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I have a 2004 Journey and we have already replaced both windshields due to rust.
I'm thinking that the rust will return know matter what I do.
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:33 PM   #50
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Quote:
When you said you can inspect the rust by removing the side molding, are you referring to the inside molding?
No ...although you might be able to see a little inside, the molding refered to here is the rubber molding surrounding the glass on the outside ...it simply pops into or out of a groove that is secured to the metal framework by double-sided tape.
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Old 10-20-2011, 08:02 AM   #51
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Exitstrategy,

Do you think the problem stopped with introduction the one piece window (06-07).

When you said you can inspect the rust by removing the side molding, are you referring to the inside molding?
I was just looking at a friend's 2008 Eclipse; although he has the new one-piece glass, the method of attaching the glass to the steel frame looks to be the same as with the older two piece glass style. For inspection, you need to unscrew the two metal side pieces, then unsnap the top and bottom rubber strips from their plastic center channels. If you are lucky, the rust will all face forward and can be treated. If the rust has worked it's way around to the back of the metal (which would be the inside) you will find it nearly impossible to access the rust on top of the top header because the cap butts right against the steel there. Don't forget that the black butyl that holds the glass in will not barrier off water and can hide rust. Most of my rust was under that rubber coating. The first thing to look at will be the 'L' brackets on the lower part of the frame that hold the glass in place. These are raw steel and immediately begin to rust. If anyone discovers that their brackets have been coated or treated from the factory, please let this forum know so we can have a better idea of which year coaches to be watching.
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Old 10-23-2011, 07:03 AM   #52
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I have a 2007 Itasca, W24 chassis, 35', 3 slides; Toad: HHR. About one year ago I noticed a small water leak at the top centre of my two piece windshield. I have sinced checked and rechecked every possible leak source on the front cap, replaced all 5 clearance light gaskets, pressure tested the windshield, etc. No luck so far. I have removed the horizontal rubber trim strip exposing the top windshield seal. I then applied sealant along the top of the windshield as the water is leaking in from this area, however no luck.

Now, I have a RUST problem starting and there doesn't appear to be anything I can do about it. I am sure that I will eventually have to remove the entire windshield in order to clean up the rust areas!

Good luck, Knightly
My coach is doing the same thing and I have remover the black rubber trim and caulked the top of the windshield, it slowed the leak but has not stopped it. I havent seen any of the rust that has been discribed in several other posts. I just can't find the leak sourse yet.
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Old 10-27-2011, 10:34 AM   #53
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Winnebago Windshield Rust

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Originally Posted by bobpie View Post
My coach is doing the same thing and I have remover the black rubber trim and caulked the top of the windshield, it slowed the leak but has not stopped it. I havent seen any of the rust that has been discribed in several other posts. I just can't find the leak sourse yet.
I have been trying to track down the source of the leak in my windshied for over a year now. I am slowly making progress. As I have mentioned before on this thread, I did all the usual checks. I replaced all the clearance light gaskets plue had the windshield pressure tested for leaks, but the source of the leak could not be pinpointed. I have since found that there is a channel behind the top of the windshield just above the seal between the metal frame and glass. This channel will allow water to run along the entire top of the windshield. This constant mositure will eventually cause corrosion. In my case, I have located two separate areas along this top seal that were leaking. I have managed to stop the leaks but have since found a third leak. There is a "u" shaped, plastic channel glued onto the metal frame, just above the windshield. This channel is the retainer for the rubber strip that cover the area between the windshield and cap. This channel blocks access to the wet area and actual contributes to the long term problem. The best approach would be to remove the entire plastic channel.

Anyway, I will continue to chase each new leak until I am back home next spring. At that time, I now realize that I am going to have to have the passenger side windshield removed, corrosion properly addressed, then a new windshield installed. My insurance should cover part of the costs as I have a crack caused by a rock. However, I will have to pay for all of the corrosion repairs. I will be following the advice received on this thread in how to treat the rusted areas. My rig is only 5 years old, purchased new. I never thought that I would have this kind of a problem with a Winnebago. Aside from this issue, our rig has been very reliable.

Knightly
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:29 PM   #54
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I have been trying to track down the source of the leak in my windshied for over a year now. I am slowly making progress. As I have mentioned before on this thread, I did all the usual checks. I replaced all the clearance light gaskets plue had the windshield pressure tested for leaks, but the source of the leak could not be pinpointed. I have since found that there is a channel behind the top of the windshield just above the seal between the metal frame and glass. This channel will allow water to run along the entire top of the windshield. This constant mositure will eventually cause corrosion. In my case, I have located two separate areas along this top seal that were leaking. I have managed to stop the leaks but have since found a third leak. There is a "u" shaped, plastic channel glued onto the metal frame, just above the windshield. This channel is the retainer for the rubber strip that cover the area between the windshield and cap. This channel blocks access to the wet area and actual contributes to the long term problem. The best approach would be to remove the entire plastic channel.

Anyway, I will continue to chase each new leak until I am back home next spring. At that time, I now realize that I am going to have to have the passenger side windshield removed, corrosion properly addressed, then a new windshield installed. My insurance should cover part of the costs as I have a crack caused by a rock. However, I will have to pay for all of the corrosion repairs. I will be following the advice received on this thread in how to treat the rusted areas. My rig is only 5 years old, purchased new. I never thought that I would have this kind of a problem with a Winnebago. Aside from this issue, our rig has been very reliable.

Knightly
35' Itasca, W24 chassis, Toad - HHR
Knightly -

My new windshields came with new plastic channels for the rubber moldings. You can even remove the old ones to do the repair if you are careful - They just go back on with 3M VHB tape. Those channels themselves can also trap water against the steel frame.

One other note on the windshields: They are now being produced by a different manufacturer. Some have noted that the shaded portion at the top is not even with the older version. You might want to look for an opportunity to replace them both at the same time. That would also be considered a single 'event' by the insurance company and would mean one deductible instead of two.

Good luck
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Old 11-29-2011, 12:42 PM   #55
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In a previous post I said I was having the upper & lower steel windshield supports replaced. The lower one was replaced by removing the lower fiberglass front & welding the new one in place. The upper one you would have to remove the front fiberglass cap which is not recommended. Instead the top portion of the "U" channel is cut off slid on top of the old channel & held in place with "Structual Adhesive".

The body shop that I used claimed they knew all about how to do the job. Although he did ask if I could possibly get the new supports ($350 aprox.S&H) as that would make it easier then just trying to weld over the rusted areas. I did have to keep an eye on him & finally not allow him to try & take off the front cap & do it the way Winnebago says that he should do it.

To be fair the rust is pretty well hidden & to give an estimate without a plan on what you're going to do is not practical. His first guess was probably not higher then $1000, not counting glass removal & new glass if needed. I did purchase new reveal & the reveal holder. To my surprise (happy) it was about $1400 for his work & $600 for the glass guy who was able to get both windshields out & put them back in without breaking them.

There were a few things wrong after I got it back, windshield wiper out 180 deg, backup camera not working (not plugged in right) , steps not working (I think he burned up the control module with his welding) of which I had an old spare. Driver sunvisor fell out of the overhead first time I went to use it, he either stripped the screw holes or used the wrong screws. The front lower fiberglass section didn't line up into the side receiver.

I was not able to use the butyl tape that I originally thought that I could use to seal the top of the reveal as there was slightly less room after sliding the new support in place. I have for now placed a 1" black tape on the top reveal onto the fiberglass cap, & the same tape onto the black area of the windshield onto the lower reveal. Hopefully this will hold till I figure out something a little better.

Yes I am satisfied with the job. Not with all the little things not being right but I can deal with it. That being said when you own a motor home you better be able to fix some things yourself.
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Old 11-29-2011, 06:38 PM   #56
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In a previous post I said I was having the upper & lower steel windshield supports replaced. The lower one was replaced by removing the lower fiberglass front & welding the new one in place. The upper one you would have to remove the front fiberglass cap which is not recommended. Instead the top portion of the "U" channel is cut off slid on top of the old channel & held in place with "Structual Adhesive".

The body shop that I used claimed they knew all about how to do the job. Although he did ask if I could possibly get the new supports ($350 aprox.S&H) as that would make it easier then just trying to weld over the rusted areas. I did have to keep an eye on him & finally not allow him to try & take off the front cap & do it the way Winnebago says that he should do it.

To be fair the rust is pretty well hidden & to give an estimate without a plan on what you're going to do is not practical. His first guess was probably not higher then $1000, not counting glass removal & new glass if needed. I did purchase new reveal & the reveal holder. To my surprise (happy) it was about $1400 for his work & $600 for the glass guy who was able to get both windshields out & put them back in without breaking them.

There were a few things wrong after I got it back, windshield wiper out 180 deg, backup camera not working (not plugged in right) , steps not working (I think he burned up the control module with his welding) of which I had an old spare. Driver sunvisor fell out of the overhead first time I went to use it, he either stripped the screw holes or used the wrong screws. The front lower fiberglass section didn't line up into the side receiver.

I was not able to use the butyl tape that I originally thought that I could use to seal the top of the reveal as there was slightly less room after sliding the new support in place. I have for now placed a 1" black tape on the top reveal onto the fiberglass cap, & the same tape onto the black area of the windshield onto the lower reveal. Hopefully this will hold till I figure out something a little better.

Yes I am satisfied with the job. Not with all the little things not being right but I can deal with it. That being said when you own a motor home you better be able to fix some things yourself.

That is far less expensive than I would have expected. So had you not been able to save the glass, that would have added about $1,200 to the $600 glass tab, so figure $3,200 for the job if you can get away without removing the top cap. That also keeps the shop from having to paint match. Encouraging for certain, yet still a financial hit if you are not ready for it.

Thank you for the very informative update! To everyone else, I'd love to see your photos of advanced rust just so we know what can be lurking under the surface.
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Old 11-29-2011, 09:21 PM   #57
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Wow I was under my new to me 04 Journey that I just picked up. EVERY weld that I saw especially in the front had rust like it wasnt even painted from the factory. Anyone else notice this?
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Old 11-30-2011, 02:58 PM   #58
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We have owned 8 different Motorhomes. Have several log books filled out With differant problems;;;; The Winnebago is about 1 to 10 on the problems. Buy an older Monaco that poped the windshield when you used the jacks on unleval ground;;;; OH yes there is someone that will say WELL I NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEM..; I seen them.. Nobody makes the perfect Coach, They all have Glitches.. Please see Just How many have a steel cage in tha cab area like Winnebago does.. So they have a little rust. Our Ultimate Has a Bit Of rust. SO my hair are turning gray whats the big deal.. If it is so bad maybe you all should have Purchased a Alpine/ Monaco. Or one of the many that have been or are sitting in bankrupcy ;; Winnebago is a good product. It just Irks me when some _____-- go on and on about some small misshapp;; Life is good
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Old 11-30-2011, 03:15 PM   #59
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We have owned 8 different Motorhomes. Have several log books filled out With differant problems;;;; The Winnebago is about 1 to 10 on the problems. Buy an older Monaco that poped the windshield when you used the jacks on unleval ground;;;; OH yes there is someone that will say WELL I NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEM..; I seen them.. Nobody makes the perfect Coach, They all have Glitches.. Please see Just How many have a steel cage in tha cab area like Winnebago does.. So they have a little rust. Our Ultimate Has a Bit Of rust. SO my hair are turning gray whats the big deal.. If it is so bad maybe you all should have Purchased a Alpine/ Monaco. Or one of the many that have been or are sitting in bankrupcy ;; Winnebago is a good product. It just Irks me when some _____-- go on and on about some small misshapp;; Life is good
Are you kidding me??????? If I go and spend almost two hundred thousand dollars on a coach, it had darn well better not rust in strategic structural places like the windshield frame - Especially if the only 'weather' it saw was my garden hose when I washed it. The problem is that these coaches WERE properly engineered, but WERE NOT properly built. Who in their right mind would put raw steel L brackets in a place where water naturally drains and sits? Who would scribe a mark through the rust coating on the upper windshield frame right through the paint to the bare metal - Again where water sits and invites rust? For you to say that we are "going on" really takes the cake. If you've got lots of money to throw around on improperly built vehicles, then great, but don't try to tell me or the others on this board what our expecations should be. Rust is vicious. It never stops eating away at the bones of our expensive rigs. It should be compared to cancer, not your gray hair.
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Old 11-30-2011, 06:38 PM   #60
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Just for someones Information; I had a manufacturing Company; Biult oil coolers for the Harley bavidson. Fire place inserts. Built boats For up in Alaskas, Bristal bay had 49 employees, and from time to time everyone is capeale of making a mistake. when they did We as a company within the warrenty peroid tryedto rectafy/repair the problem, we also hed customers we could not satisfy, such is life/people;; To anyone it may concern .. If you are going to carry on for months/posts on end . You really need find something more constructive to do with your time.. Life is much to short to get your HACKLES up over a bit of rust. Especially when you can buy a different brand, Please do that then Tear them down. Then you may feel better.. There are to many Winnebago owners for some of the missfortuneitt few to Keep hammering on the rust Problem. PLease Let it rest; Buy a XXX brand, Life is good
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