Winnebago Caused Rust: Need Names!!!

[ExitStrategy]

Originally Posted by ExitStrategy

I have just experienced the dreaded Winnebago rust issue first hand. My coach is a a 2005 Itasca Meridian (same as Winnebago Journey) that is stored 95% of the time in an insulated garage in Southern California. My rig has only seen a few rainstorms and has never seen a snowfall or a salted road. Despite it's easy life, the steel frames behind both front windshields developed rust that was severe enough to break both windshield panes. The lower four lower metal positioning brackets were heavily rusted because they were installed with no rust protection or even paint. That rust spread to the lower part of the frame around all four brackets. The upper frame rail was severely rusted where someone at the Winnebago factory had scribed what appeared to be a window alignment line through the paint. The upper molding allowed water through and it sat against the steel and caused rust.

Winnebago's response to my letter of concern has been typical, in that they claimed no responsibility or liability and are trying to hide behind their 12 month warranty. My feeling is that they caused these problems and should be held accountable. The average cost of this repair is running $1,500 to $4,000 per incident. We paid far too much for our coaches to be ignored in this fashion.

Here is the tricky part: Although there are numerous instances online of this rust occuring, my attorney says that it will be difficult to find an attorney to file a class action suit on a contingent recovery basis. That might change if we can find someone who has been injured as a result of the rust issue. My belief is that if the rust became severe enough, that the frame could literally fall out along with the glass at some point.

Because this is an over-the-road issue, my attorney has advised that it should be brought to the attention of both the Department of Transportation and the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration as a means to press Winnebago to recall any and all coaches that could be affected. In my mind, this would be a far more effective method of righting this wrong than trying to organize a court case. The costs of a recall program could be severe for Winnebago and hopefully they will learn to treat their customers with a little more respect.

I believe that someone needs to move forward and make Winnebago stop hiding behind their short warranty. They have caused a tremendous amount of cost to both owners and insurance companies with all of the glass and metal repair that has been needed because of their negligence on the manufacturing line.

Please, if you are not affected - Do not reply to this thread. But if you have been affected in the past, or suspect that your coach may have rust in its windshield frames, please send your contact info and details to me at: markhamburg@sbcglobaldotcom (DON'T USE THE LINK! Please use an actual . in place of 'dot' - This is just to keep automated spammers away).

This is not going to be a quick task, but I am willing to do the legwork in order to get this process started. Also, please ask any other Winnebago owners you know to visit this thread. Coaches can easily be inspected for rust by removing the window side trim pieces. No glass has to come out. Inspect the top rail from the side. Also, just because you see black sealant, don't think it will stop the rust - The rust goes right under the sealer). If you have had a mysterious glass crack with no impact sign, you most likely have rust. If not removed and sealed, the rust could become severe enough to cause the whole front cap to have to come off for a proper repair. Something like that could easily cost $10,000 and would most likely not be covered by your insurance policy.

Once the list is complete, I will notify those who have corresponded that the request for a recall has been delivered to the above two agencies.

Thank you for your help with this matter.

My e-mail address is: [email protected] (showed as .com)

[Jack1234]

Originally Posted by ExitStrategy

You need to review the policy in question to see if it covers rust damage. Most extended warranty language that I have seen specifically lists the items that are covered; everything else is deemed to be not covered. I'd be anxious to know if rust damage or rust through were among the covered listed items.

If such a policy exists, it would be highly worthwhile to have on these rigs.

Thanks....not to disrupt this thread too much it would be great if some owners of extended warranties who have experienced this problem could advise whether not they were covered?

[mrschwarz]

My extended warranty excludes rust. I have a request for consideration into Winnebago and I would like to hear from them before I do anything else.

[zippo]

I think maybe posting in the Winnebago section of this forum might be of help and get more response. Also you might try posting on this Winnebago forum Winnebago-specific issues The Winnebago's have plenty of rust problems. Warranty covered mine 2 days before the warranty was up. I was surprised because Winnebago had already blamed me saying I had driven in salt conditions and it was not covered. 2 days later they had a change of heart and agreed to fix it.

[Airtool]

Wounder if the rust problem is caused by condensation forming on the inside of the windshield and pooling at the bottom of the window frame.
Looking at the pictures posted by ExitS. the damage looks to be on the inside not on the exterior where it would be very viable.
Windshield gaskets / seals are one of the weak links in a number of coaches.
I found a product made by Magnet Products. Chassis Saver its a paint that can be brushed on or sprayed on.
www.magnetpaints .com
I have used it to seal rusted areas and it can be painted over.
I used a dremel tool with wire wheels to clean the surface well for small spots and brushed on the paint. use a disposable brush,not a foam type brush.
It is silver in color and dries with a smooth surface. Sand with a 400 grit paper to get a better bond for a top coat.
You may want to try it on something first for a test run before applying it to the area(s) under repair.
Its not cheep, I bought a 1/2oz. can to use on small jobs. Mix.per instructions and mask off areas you do not want it to come in contact with.It just does not want to come off That is what makes it work so well.

Remember nothing last forever,but this stuff is good at sealing rust areas and can be applied in multiple coats if sanded.
This might not solve the problem,but it will hold it a bay.

Dick.

[Wayne M]

My 2008 was under Mfg warranty when I discovered, by the water running down the inside of the windshield, the rust problem. It was repaired. The person doing the repair at the dealer's lot was contracted and he stated that as long as he was alive he would guarantee it would not leak. Wish i had got that in writing. So far so good.

[Airtool]

This is a link to the Chassis Saver paint.

Paint Over Rust to Stop Rust Permanently With Chassis Saver Truck & Auto Underbody Coating

Dick.

[ExitStrategy]

Originally Posted by Airtool

Wounder if the rust problem is caused by condensation forming on the inside of the windshield and pooling at the bottom of the window frame.
Looking at the pictures posted by ExitS. the damage looks to be on the inside not on the exterior where it would be very viable.
Windshield gaskets / seals are one of the weak links in a number of coaches.
I found a product made by Magnet Products. Chassis Saver its a paint that can be brushed on or sprayed on.
www.magnetpaints .com
I have used it to seal rusted areas and it can be painted over.
I used a dremel tool with wire wheels to clean the surface well for small spots and brushed on the paint. use a disposable brush,not a foam type brush.
It is silver in color and dries with a smooth surface. Sand with a 400 grit paper to get a better bond for a top coat.
You may want to try it on something first for a test run before applying it to the area(s) under repair.
Its not cheep, I bought a 1/2oz. can to use on small jobs. Mix.per instructions and mask off areas you do not want it to come in contact with.It just does not want to come off That is what makes it work so well.

Remember nothing last forever,but this stuff is good at sealing rust areas and can be applied in multiple coats if sanded.
This might not solve the problem,but it will hold it a bay.

Dick.

My rust on the top beam of the frame was all on the outside forward edge right above where the glass is adhered to the steel frame. The sealer did not reach all the way to the top of the glass and actually formed a lip that trapped water coming down past the exterior molding (sealed with a 1/16" strip of tape that failed - you can see the water stains above the rust on the fiberglass cap in the photos) against a line that was scribed through the metal. Blammo - RUST. The rust on the bottom was also on the exterior and emanated from the raw steel 'L' brackets that position the glass at the bottom. Those were welded to the lower beam of the windshield frame and the rust travelled from the brackets to the frame at the weld points. My coach has seen so little inclement weather that I believe my rust was caused by simply washing the rig!

The real problem is not in sealing the metal, it is the fact that the steel in the windshield frame is so thin and rust is so aggressive that the rust could go all the way through, unnoticed until it was too late. I was lucky - I was left with enough metal that we were able to grind the rust out, then acid etch, then seal with three coats of POR-15. The guys that are going to be in real trouble are the ones who store their coaches outdoors in states with inclement weather and don't notice the problem until it is too late. Until you have to pull all the windshield moldings off to replace the glass, the rust is entirely masked.

Rust encapsulator like Chassis Saver is a similar product to POR-15 (and may even be made by the same company). The POR-15 instructions specifically state that the loose rust must be ground off and then the pitted metal treated with their acid-etching product. Those first two steps can only be completed if the rust is not so far advanced so as to have travelled where it cannot be reached.

[Airtool]

Thanks for the clarification on the leak being at the top of the windshield seal.
I did not pick that up from the pictures.

The front cowling assembly gets flexed quite often while driving down the road and the seals can only take so much before pulling away from the openings. That along with the different expansion and contraction coefficients of the materials used does not help.
I have wondered if a seal with wider profile covering the area where the seals join the cowling would help some.

Dick.

[Chuck 1935]

Originally Posted by Airtool

Thanks for the clarification on the leak being at the top of the windshield seal.
I did not pick that up from the pictures.

The front cowling assembly gets flexed quite often while driving down the road and the seals can only take so much before pulling away from the openings. That along with the different expansion and contraction coefficients of the materials used does not help.
I have wondered if a seal with wider profile covering the area where the seals join the cowling would help some.

Dick.

The Windshields are glued in and the seal that you see around the outer perimeter is only used as trim to cover the gap between the glass and the front cap. The bottom metal clips are used to support and position the glass while the glue cures. On mine I was shocked to see that those clips had amost rusted off. This is a coach that is stored in a closed garage in California and not near the Ocean !

[sjsmith1212]

I have a 2008 Tour, so far no problems. Has it been corrected over the years since yours or not? (If you know the answer to that)

Thanks, Sandy

[mrschwarz]

After receiving a response from Winnebago, I carefully inspected the frames around my hatches. It turns out that the only one that had any rust was the electrical hatch. The rest were fine. I don't know what I could have been thinking before. I let them know that, too.

I am going to chalk this one up to one of the benefits of aging.

[ExitStrategy]

Originally Posted by sjsmith1212

I have a 2008 Tour, so far no problems. Has it been corrected over the years since yours or not? (If you know the answer to that)

Thanks, Sandy

Sandy -

I am not certain when, or even if, Winnebago has improved their manufacturing process in this area of their coaches. I am going to move this thread over to the Winnebago 'issues' area and see if I can't get a better feel for what coaches might have these issues.

[AFChap]

My windshield rust problem came to light in May 2007 when the passenger side glass started leaking at the top near the center. On inspection I found a clearance lamp directly "upstream" that had water inside the lens. The mounting screws for the clearance lamp were severely rusted indicating it had been leaking for quite some time. After finding rust on the driver side frame the dealer recommended they remove both windshields to R&R the frame. The dealer said they could remove the glass without damaging it but could not guarantee that. I agreed, and they destroyed both windshields getting them out. There was minimal rust except in just a few places where it was quite extensive. The repair drug on for 21 days and was a comedy of errors by the dealership service department. One example, after checking their resealing of the clearance lamps I refused to pay for that at all and they removed it from the bill. The final result was just under $2,500. The dealer said Winnebago refused any good faith "participation." I sent Winnebago a rational email with photos, and they came through with just under $1,000.

I check the front clearance lamps every six months, and reseal them as required. I don't understand why the front lamps tend to leak, and the identical type on the rear do not. One key may be that the gaskets are obviously different front to rear (harder rubber on rear), and the front are held in place by screws while the rear are held in place by pop-rivets.

My coach has a Spartan chassis ...but of course the chassis has nothing to do with the metal cage and windshield frame Winnebago welds to the top of the chassis. Having taken tours of the factory and watched the multiple-dip metal treatment and painting process, I was surprised by the extent of rust many have around the windshield, and that I and some others have had in other areas.

[Knightly]

Since my last thread, I have finally found the source of the leak in my two piece windshield. It has been leaking from the top centre area of the passengers windshield for almost one year. Last week, we were camping at Lake Sawyer, Wa. and received one full day of heavy rain. A second leak was noted in the same windshield, only at the other end. I removed the rubber horizontal strip just above the windshield and carefully poured a small amount of water behind the top of the windshield. The water ran down a small channel, behind or under all the sealant and leaked out at the centre trouble spot within seconds. I did notice a rust spot around the newer leak area which I was able to sand and repaint before thoroughly resealing with polyurethane roof/window sealant. So far, we have not had anymore heavy rainfall however I have been unable to get it to leak again when tested! I am amazed at how the water was able to travel down this small channel behind the windshield. It seemed obvious to me that if the sealant was applied properly, there should be no channel there to catch and divert the water.

I have an extended warranty, but this kind of problem is not covered. Eventually, when replacing the windshield, I am going to have to address the corrision problem.

Thank you all for your comments and advise.

Knightly

2007 Itasca 35', W24 chassis, 3 slides. Toad: HHR

Originally Posted by ExitStrategy

Knightly -

Thank you for replying. If you do have rust, you may not want to wait too long. If you catch it early enough, you can grind, acid treat and seal, but if it gets behind where you can reach, the only alternative is going to be metal replacement. I do not think that can be done without removing the front cap. Rust is metal cancer - It just doesn't stop unless it's removed.

Good luck and sorry to hear about your situation.

[tderonne]

As far as looking for this problem.

I know the rubber trim around the windshield is for looks and it simply pulls out. Something I haven't read, does it simply push back in? It doesn't need to be glued or something does it?

[rgvtexan]

Just push it back in.

[GreatWhite]

So, if the company will not stand behind this.. and it is so prevalent.. One man by himself is weak.. but what about an army of owners? Class action suit? That should make the lawyers droooooollllll.

[ExitStrategy]

Originally Posted by GreatWhite

So, if the company will not stand behind this.. and it is so prevalent.. One man by himself is weak.. but what about an army of owners? Class action suit? That should make the lawyers droooooollllll.

This was my response too, so I took it up with my attorney. His thought was that it might be difficult to find an attorney who would be willing to take the case on a contingent recovery basis. We had a pretty lengthy discussion about punative damages though. If anyone does know of an attorney who might want to look at this for us, I've got a growing list of names who would be interested in joining the plaintiff list. That attorney might also be interested in talking with the many insurance companies who have been replacing very expensive windshields due to Winnebago's manufacturing negligence. Also, if anyone knows of anyone who was injured as a result of a failed Winnebago windshield that can be traced to rust, we need to know about it. That would have a huge bearing on this type of a case.

[ExitStrategy]

Originally Posted by tderonne

As far as looking for this problem.

I know the rubber trim around the windshield is for looks and it simply pulls out. Something I haven't read, does it simply push back in? It doesn't need to be glued or something does it?

The side trim pieces are screwed on over the ends of the top and bottom moldings. Those moldings snap into a channel and also use a thin piece of 3M VHB tape on the edge. The moldings pop right off for inspection. It's probably a good idea to check yours to see if you've got rust sooner than later. The lower support brackets are raw metal in these rigs and are guaranteed to rust. Winnebago knows this, yet it used them anyway. We need to know if they are still doing this. I've got responses from owners with rigs up to 2007 only so far - Rigs up to that date have had this issue. Please help update the data base if you have a newer unit. If you do have the raw metal brackets and they are left unattended, the rust will bubble up and crack your windshields because the window glue sets fairly hard and does not allow the panes to flex.