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Old 10-26-2017, 06:43 AM   #21
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Windows

And don't forget to open a window each time you extend or retract a slide out.
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Old 10-26-2017, 11:20 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by rtcadman View Post
And don't forget to open a window each time you extend or retract a slide out.
Now that's not in the manual anywhere, but it's excellent advice.

I had a window break while extending a slide once. The glass broke into the camper. I've gotten varying, usually somewhat disbelieving, reactions, but there's no other explanation than air differential.

Crack open your roof fan vent some time when you're operating a slide and watch the fan spin. There's a larger volume of air moving than what you might think.

On the OP, I read the manual. Engine running for leveling and slide operation. I knew that before we purchased from research and it killed me to see the salesman run the slides in the showroom with the engine off. Who knows how many times that was done while sat in the showroom.
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Old 10-26-2017, 03:21 PM   #23
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In the HWH manual on my Meridian 36g. Have engine off and key on accessory to extend levelers, to retract - start engine and immediately push auto store.

For the slides, always have the engine running - in and out.

We do this for our Vectra as well. I had asked HWH when I was there for a new spring on the leveler and he said that you are to retract the jacks BEFORE starting the engine, because, as the air comes up the coach will move forward slightly and it could damage the jacks.
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Old 10-26-2017, 07:02 PM   #24
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Yep, switch or engine on then level, then engine on to slide out. Mine wont work unless engine on.
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Old 10-27-2017, 12:03 PM   #25
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Ya, this should be a given...high-draw motors running on the chassis batt - the alternator will kick volts up to about 14 and all the amps you need.

I re-routed the 10w roof panel to a controller for the chassis batt. That is, after frying two of them over a couple of years. Takes about a year to fry one. LOL

It makes no sense to have it connected direct to the house batts. What were they thinking??
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Old 11-02-2017, 07:47 AM   #26
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Something to consider...

If the leveling is done first, and if it doesn't achieve green lights on all corners, the chassis is subjected to twisting forces. Then, depending on the strength of the chassis, when the slides are extended, that may cause binding on the tracks and increased load on the motors.

On a very uneven parking surface, this twisting force can also be present if the slides are extended before leveling.

Anyone thoughts this?
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Old 11-02-2017, 06:41 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by ADA View Post
Something to consider...

If the leveling is done first, and if it doesn't achieve green lights on all corners, the chassis is subjected to twisting forces. Then, depending on the strength of the chassis, when the slides are extended, that may cause binding on the tracks and increased load on the motors.

On a very uneven parking surface, this twisting force can also be present if the slides are extended before leveling.

Anyone thoughts this?
Yes coach needs to be reasonably level and not subject to twisting forces. Parked on a 1-2 degree side to side slope or front to back slope IMO is good enough to extend slides if for some reason you don't want to deploy jacks such as at a Walmart , etc.

I have 10" x 12" blocks made from 2x12s, if the site is so out of level that one or two of the jacks can't extend far enough to level, then place blocks under those jacks and repeat. Try to park so that the end that is raised off the ground the farthest is in front, you want to leave rear wheels in contact with the ground, since this is where the parking brake on gas powered RVs helps hold the coach against movement.
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Old 01-01-2018, 08:29 AM   #28
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I think some of your recommendations are confusing. I believe there is no way to level your coach with the engine running. So with that function, you are at your batteries mercy.
We always level our coach with the engine running.

We level then extend the slides in that order then we shut off the engine.

Our manual specifically says that you need have the engine running. It also says that you should level the coach before extending the slides. I believe this is so you don't add stress to the slide systems.
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Old 01-01-2018, 08:55 AM   #29
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Hawkeye,

I am saying so many people post without giving a thought to doing any research. When we have a question we always look in out manuals first, then the mfg website, then Google and as last resort post on a forum.

Many people don't follow this process and they would learn so much.
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Old 01-01-2018, 09:06 AM   #30
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We always level our coach with the engine running.

We level then extend the slides in that order then we shut off the engine.

Our manual specifically says that you need have the engine running. It also says that you should level the coach before extending the slides. I believe this is so you don't add stress to the slide systems.
Yes - this. But the next step up in DP units require the slides be out before leveling. Sis and BIL learned the hard way with their Entegra after cracking the granite counter top.

The engine needs to be running for the slide motor amp draw, and the bump in volts from the alternator speeds them up as well. AFAIK slides are connected to the chassis batts, at least in mine they are, so if you run them with the motor shut down it can draw the battery down quite a bit. Leveling jacks also use quite a bit of amps as well. So yeah, motor running for sure.
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Old 01-01-2018, 11:19 AM   #31
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Yes - this. But the next step up in DP units require the slides be out before leveling. Sis and BIL learned the hard way with their Entegra after cracking the granite counter top.
I agree, also noticed some say to put slides out first. It still doesn't seem logical to me why thats better.
Seems it would use more power for the slide to go out, out of wack like that.
And possibly having the slide come in off track so to say. We have the hyd. slides.
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Old 01-02-2018, 05:53 AM   #32
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Our 31G slide wont work without engine running.its normal to push slide button twice. Also after talking to WB tech support, they say to hold in slide button about 5seconds after slide goes in or out, it helps keep drive motors sync.
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Old 01-02-2018, 07:34 AM   #33
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Also after talking to WB tech support, they say to hold in slide button about 5 seconds after slide goes in or out, it helps keep drive motors sync.
Actually, we hold the slide button for a good 20 sec after the slide finishes moving. And on my Adventurer a green light will start flashing on the slide button after approx 15 sec.
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Old 01-02-2018, 09:33 AM   #34
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One needs to remember everyone here has a Winnebago, but they are all different models and years. Which means different procedures. No matter what, leveling first and slides last has to be better for less twist on the slides.
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Old 01-02-2018, 07:28 PM   #35
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Now that does seem logical to me.
That would equalize the weight, so it should go out straight.
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Old 01-02-2018, 07:31 PM   #36
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One needs to remember everyone here has a Winnebago, but they are all different models and years. Which means different procedures. No matter what, leveling first and slides last has to be better for less twist on the slides.
Makes sense to me.

Lee
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Old 01-03-2018, 03:06 PM   #37
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Read the manual(s). They are all on-line.

My 2015 recommends leveling then extending slides and both recommended with engine running to help in the current draw.
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Old 03-19-2018, 02:15 PM   #38
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Anyone have any tips for my jacks? They worked fine last week,now I have no power to the Level Best panel - no LED lights to show the ignition on and brake is on
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Old 03-19-2018, 05:14 PM   #39
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You might have blown the 125a circuit breaker, on our 2015 Vista it is behind the 12v circuit breakers. It is a NAPA part, you can buy it at NAPA.

We jumpered around it to get ouselves moving.
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Old 03-20-2018, 07:56 AM   #40
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There is an override and typically behind the control panel. There should be a jumper connected to the harness.

You can call Winnebago and they can walk you through it. This will be for retractingl
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