More Questions About Slide Awnings

[GG1]

Both of my slide awnings are seperating at the awning bar. I am considering buying the material mentioned on this site that is reinforced on the edges. Are there any postings showing step by step instructions for do it yourself installations? I doubt if A+E will do anything after 4 years to assist other than sell me new awnings.

[GG1]

Both of my slide awnings are seperating at the awning bar. I am considering buying the material mentioned on this site that is reinforced on the edges. Are there any postings showing step by step instructions for do it yourself installations? I doubt if A+E will do anything after 4 years to assist other than sell me new awnings.

[ichn2go]

GG1, I think you are absolutely right about A&E not doing anything.

As I statted in the other post I would go with the other Company, Stag Parkway that sells through independent RV folks. I believe their topper is much better than A&E's. Do a search on Smlranger and or Slide Toppers and you will get a lot of info...Good Luck

[Clay L]

You asked for instructions. I saved the following from threads either on this forum or another one. I wasn't smart enough to save the names of the posters so I could give them proper credit. maybe they will see this and give us their names.
Note that there are two sets of instructions with slight differences in the way they did the job.
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Joe, I did it last year on ours. I had a dealer order the fabric directly from A&E (the

manufacturer of my slide topper) and it was made specifically for my topper (I provided a

model and serial number - from the topper roller.) Here is what I did:
1. Extended the slide a foot or so to give me a place to lay the mechanism when it came off.
2. Rotated the topper slightly and inserted nails through the slots in each end. This held the

tension on the roller. BE VERY CAREFUL. If you don't get the tension off of the spring, you

can really hurt yourself.
3. Drove the roll pins out of each end arm. This allowed the center pin on each of the arms to

be loose.
4. Removed the screws on rear arm where it mounts on the slide. This allowed the arm to

slide backwards in the mount and allowed me to get the center pin out of it. With that done, I

slide the front pin out of the arm and laid the whole thing on top of the slide.
5. I repositioned my ladder behind the slide and pulled the topper toward me, sliding the

fabric out of the groove on the side of the MH. Again, BE VERY CAREFUL - I should have

had a helper while I was doing this as the slide mechanism was very difficult to balance on a

ladder by myself.
6. Being careful to keep the nails in the slots and maintain the spring tension, I unwrapped

the fabric, slide it out of the groove on the roller, slide the new fabric into the groove and

completely wrapped it around the roller.
7. With a helper on a second ladder, we fed the material back into the groove on the side of

the MH and laid the roller on top of the slide.
8. I simply reversed the disassembly to put it back together. The two problem points were

buying new roll pins the right diameter. A&E uses a special type pin for this that I couldn't

duplicate locally. The second problem was getting the fabric equally tight on both ends

before driving the pins back. I fussed with this part to make sure that I got it correct.

Whoever put my stopper initially did it incorrectly. The instructions that came with my fabric

showed me how it should be installed to keep the roller from unrolling except when the slide

is moving out. I re-installed it correctly and haven't had any problem with the topper since.

BTW, my fabric was tearing along the MH side from rot which is why I replaced it.

************************************************** ****************************************
Locate the cross hole in each end of the fabric tube assembly. It will be through the white end

cap and be about 7/32 diameter. You will need a 7/32 cotter pin about 2.5-3" in length that

you can pass through this hole and in effect pin the tube and cap together. This will allow you

to not have to fight the tension while you perform step 2.

Step 2 will require that you take the screw out of the hex rod that connects the end cap to the

side wall and is part of the hanger mechanism. You will also have to drill out the pop rivet.

When this is done, you then can reverse the hex rod and use it as a handle to crank the

tension on the springs. Yes, you will have to remove the cotter pin during the cranking and

then replace when you have adjusted to your liking. Just remember to reinstall the cotter pin

so the tension will be held when you reinstall the hex rod back in it's normal location.

Perform the same process on the other end and you're ready to relax, have a cold drink and

enjoy the view.

If you need the specs for the A&E slide topper as to number of turns, let me know and I'll post

it for you. You may want to unwind the springs on both ends then rewind to insure you have a

balanced load on both ends. Someone may have goofed in intial installation.

ALSO....BE EXTREMELY ATTENTIVE TO THE SPRING LOAD THAT IS PRESENT WHEN

YOU REMOVE THE COTTER PINS. IT IS SUFFICIENT TO BREAK YOUR HAND AND

FINGERS!!!!!! DO NOT BE OVER CONFIDENT ABOUT THIS OPERATION IT CAN

SEVERLY INJURE YOU.


Hope this helps,
Mike & Lisa

Thanks for the comment Bob! Troth, the A&E specs are 13 turns. Their specs don't define

whether that is in a "slide closed" or "or slide open" condition. I normally set them at 13 turns

with the slide open, and check for tension. You should count the turns as the slide opens, as

it increases the tension, and adjust to suit your needs. I wouldn't go beyond 13, plus the

revolutions on the slide as it extends; i.e. if as the slide extends the topper unwinds 4 revs,

add no more than 4 revs to the spring wind. Also, remember that the wind on the springs is

as counted winding the springs away from the coach. That would make the right end

conterclockwise and the left end clockwise.

[GG1]

Thanks for all the quick answers. I am sure once I put a ladder up there the instructions will be clear. Right now the directions are a little blurry due to not being familiar with mechanisms. Thanks again!!!!!!!!!

[JnGOnTheGo]

I am wondering if I could put my slide out fully and then, with a helper, continue to unroll the awning. Once I have the awning unrolled to a point where I can see the pop rivets holding the fabric then place a 7/32 X 2.5 or 3 in cotter pin in the tube to hold the tube in place while replacing the fabric.

Would this be too much tension on the tube spring?

Anyone try this method?

Would it work?

[Joe-K]

When I replaced our fabric 2 weeks ago, I follwed the instructions that came with the Skag Parkway (Carefree) fabric.

I did not have to remove the slideout roller assembly from the motorhome or disassemble it at all. Basically, the old fabric is just unrolled and slid out of the slots then the new fabric slid in and the roller allowed to roll it back up.

Summarizing the instructions from memory

<UL TYPE=SQUARE>Extend slide completely.

Grasp the roller and continue unrolling slide topper until the fabric is completely unrolled and the slot that the fabric slides into is on the top.

Insert the supplied cotter pin through roller tube in order to lock the roller and prevent it from unrolling.

Remove the screw which is inserted into gutter channel and through the fabric. This screw prevents the slide topper from sliding in the gutter channel

Slide the old topper from the awning roller groove and the gutter groove at the same time. You will slide the fabric out the end of the gutter groove.

Insert the new fabric into the awning roller and gutter grooves and slide it back to proper location.

While carefully holding roller tube, remove pin and slowly allow the awning to roll up.

Retract slideout insuring the awning rolls smoothly.

Insert screw back through fabric in the roof gutter to keep the fabric from sliding.[/list]
The instructions are very clear and come with a picture of how to insert the pin so the roller doesn't unroll. They even supply the right size cotter pins to be used. Replacing both of our slide toppers took about an hour combined.