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Old 08-30-2008, 08:55 AM   #15
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I've never used synthetic oils, but I'm getting convinced by this thread. Do I need to flush the system? Any problems or advice with switching over to Mobil 1?
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Old 08-30-2008, 05:05 PM   #16
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by SCVJeff:
Been using Mobil-1 in our cars, all 3 Honda Gens, and the old 85' 454, and it's gen. None have ever used a drop of oil. I do the 3000mi change as well, and the portable Honda's as necessary.

IMO, the "extended" Mobil-1 is a sales hype just to boost sales. Synthetic is synthetic, and it ain't broke...

PS- I also use the Mobil-1 filters just because of content and construction. It's amazing what crud and dust is left in some cheaper filters. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I think the Extended Service Mobile 1 is so specified on the basis of it's additive package and is in direct competition with Amsoil for whom I was once a dealer.In this light,I use the Extended Service M-1.
With respect to crud and dust in oil filters you are absolutely correct and being aware of this gives you a reason to be suspicious of ANY filter you buy.In the last year I have closely inspected about 20 oil filters and found magnetic particles in all but 3.I was happy to find 2 Allison Filters that were "clean as a whistle".Of course,the Allison filters being clean is no surprise as the filters are installed on Allison transmissions while they are under warranty and as such Allison has a vested interest in not adding iron bits to their transmissions!
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Old 08-31-2008, 05:35 PM   #17
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steelhead_bluesman:

Originally Mobil 1 suggested waiting at least 5 or 6,000 miles to break in an engine or else the lack of friction would make it hard to get rings properly seated, etc. Now I understand that, at least as of several years ago, Chevy Corvettes come from the factory with Mobil 1 so I suspect there is no longer major concern about minimum mileage to switch over.

The same is not true when dealing with high mileage vehicles. The cleaning action of Mobil 1 could cause problems with an older engine if there is a lot of wear and a lot of carbon and sludge buildup. Once the engine is cleaned up, due to the mileage and wear there could be a problem with a lack of compression.

Chuck
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Old 09-01-2008, 04:53 PM   #18
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I am puzzled by a couple of comments in this thread. It seems to me that some of the posters think that an oil filter is supposed to come off clean. This is unequivocally untrue. The sole purpose of an oil filter is to catch and retain contaminants to keep them from circulating and damaging the engine. If I find a filter that is full of crud, I know it is a good one and has done it's job.
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Old 09-01-2008, 05:48 PM   #19
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ChasA:
I am puzzled by a couple of comments in this thread. It seems to me that some of the posters think that an oil filter is supposed to come off clean. This is unequivocally untrue. The sole purpose of an oil filter is to catch and retain contaminants to keep them from circulating and damaging the engine. If I find a filter that is full of crud, I know it is a good one and has done it's job. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Sorry,you don't understand what has been said here.These filters to which I refer,are brand new oil filters out of the box and badly contaminated with particles of magnetic material.This has been discussed in past posts under"contaminated oil filters"
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Old 09-02-2008, 03:54 AM   #20
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I used Mobile 1 and passed/used a quart every 3,000 miles, now I use another brand of Synthetic and only use .25 to .50 every 3,000 miles. Both were 10W30 weight, all highway and no cold weather starts.
The other brand stays cleaner longer. the Mobil 1 was almost black in 2,000 miles, even with a wix 1060 filter..
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Old 09-02-2008, 04:43 PM   #21
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Trek-Cyclist:
I used Mobile 1 and passed/used a quart every 3,000 miles, now I use another brand of Synthetic and only use .25 to .50 every 3,000 miles. Both were 10W30 weight, all highway and no cold weather starts.
The other brand stays cleaner longer. the Mobil 1 was almost black in 2,000 miles, even with a wix 1060 filter.. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I think most of us experienced oil consumption such as you,until we went 15 or 20 thousand miles and then that big ole 8.1 went on the wagon with a marked reduction in appetite that was not related to "an other brand" of oil.In the old days,oil that stayed clear seemed to mean something (non-detergent oil) but today,clean oil is meaningless.
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Old 09-03-2008, 11:41 AM   #22
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Sorry, I disagree I had over 20,000 miles when I tried the Mobil 1 Full Syn 10W30.

Cleaner oil for me means the FILTER is doing its job as advertised.
Like my last post I referred to using the NAPA Gold 1060. Now, I have installed the M1-302 just to see if there is a difference. If not I'll buy whichever one is cheaper in the future.
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Old 09-03-2008, 01:27 PM   #23
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Don't want to start a war, but Workhorse now prefers 5W-30 oil. See page 45 Workhorse Users Guide. Say 10W-30 can be used if temp is above 0.
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Old 09-03-2008, 03:05 PM   #24
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I only stay where the outside temp is always above 40 degrees in the winter.
What WAR? 5W30 has always been recommended below certain temps.. or if you can't decide what to use the default is 5W30..Dino 3 months/3,000 miles..
After 3 years/36,000 miles you can put gear lube and STP in it if you want...
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Old 09-04-2008, 02:05 AM   #25
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Any war.
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Old 09-04-2008, 03:38 PM   #26
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Well I never change my oil. I use Amsoil Series 3000 sythetic with an Amsoil Bypass filter. I test the oil every year and it comes back in the good range. I change the factory filter and bypass filter every year and add oil as needed. We run this setup on our Cummins pickups also. Have 310,000 miles on one with oil in it for 295,000. Also 1999 Ford Dumps with 8.3 Cummins now have 400,000 plus but with the we use Puradyne bypass filters and Deloo 400 non sythetic.
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Old 09-05-2008, 09:39 PM   #27
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Switched my old Pace Arrow/Ford 7.5L and tranny both to Mobil 1 after 30K+, specifically to counter the heat buildup climbing long grades on dino oil. Huge improvement.

I know that nothing kills trannies like heat, and the whole point was to avoid it. Virtually no difference in oil consumption between the two, and none of the "syn-drome" problems you hear about. Also switched my Grand Marquis at 49K, will probably change out the Saturn toad also.

If it's good enough for Corvettes, USAF jets, and NASCAR, who am I to argue?
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Old 09-14-2008, 09:17 AM   #28
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by cmolling:
steelhead_bluesman:

Originally Mobil 1 suggested waiting at least 5 or 6,000 miles to break in an engine or else the lack of friction would make it hard to get rings properly seated, etc. Now I understand that, at least as of several years ago, Chevy Corvettes come from the factory with Mobil 1 so I suspect there is no longer major concern about minimum mileage to switch over.

The same is not true when dealing with high mileage vehicles. The cleaning action of Mobil 1 could cause problems with an older engine if there is a lot of wear and a lot of carbon and sludge buildup. Once the engine is cleaned up, due to the mileage and wear there could be a problem with a lack of compression.

Chuck </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks for the info, Chuck
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