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Old 02-14-2008, 03:20 PM   #1
Winnie-Wise
 
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I cannot believe this but my floor vents in the galley and bathroom (this area has the linoleum floor that looks like tile) has three vents that are not held in by the traditional two screws for removal. I tried everything to remove them but to no avail. I called Winny and they said "Oh, they are probably held in by caulking or the adhesive used to glue down the floor". I said, great, tell me how to get them out to clean the duct and vent. Their reply was "try taking a screw driver to break the vent loose". I did this but it only bends the vents. This is crazy. Anyone here ever had the same problem and how did you get them out without destroying the vent or the floor? Thanks gang. 06 Itasca Meridian.
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Old 02-14-2008, 03:20 PM   #2
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I cannot believe this but my floor vents in the galley and bathroom (this area has the linoleum floor that looks like tile) has three vents that are not held in by the traditional two screws for removal. I tried everything to remove them but to no avail. I called Winny and they said "Oh, they are probably held in by caulking or the adhesive used to glue down the floor". I said, great, tell me how to get them out to clean the duct and vent. Their reply was "try taking a screw driver to break the vent loose". I did this but it only bends the vents. This is crazy. Anyone here ever had the same problem and how did you get them out without destroying the vent or the floor? Thanks gang. 06 Itasca Meridian.
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Old 02-14-2008, 03:25 PM   #3
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I haven't tried to remove the kitchen and bath floor vents in our 07 Meridian, because it's still pretty clean.

But I haven't broken the code on how to get even heat distribution through out the coach.
If I turn the heat up enough to get the living area comfortable, the bedroom is way too warm.
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Old 02-14-2008, 04:25 PM   #4
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How about trying a pry bar to break the seal on the vents? Ours were screwed down. We changed those to non screw vents that open and close and like them great. We do have them on the tile and carpet floors with no problem.

As for the even heat hassle we installed a ceiling fan in the bedroom and that took care of the overly hot bedroom.
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Old 02-14-2008, 04:39 PM   #5
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We had a ceiling fan in the 04 Journey, but not in the 07 Meridian. That's seems like a good idea. We'll check it out.
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Old 02-14-2008, 07:43 PM   #6
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Fun Time,
My orginal vents where held in place with double face tape and yep, you'll bend them try to remove them. I replaced mine with adjustable vents. Work's a lot better directing the heat. I really don't understand Winne's answer-----

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Old 02-14-2008, 08:33 PM   #7
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IF yours are really double taped in, you might try threading a guitar string under it and work it toward the center. For some of this tape that's about the only way to release it.
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Old 02-15-2008, 02:23 AM   #8
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Can't help getting the vents out.
But it is easy for those with two screws to be exchanged for the louvre type which can be closed to direct the heat to other areas.
Baring this, put something over the vent(maybe a book or magazine) that you don't want the heat to come out of...Good Luck
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Old 02-15-2008, 03:31 AM   #9
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We have a a vent control on the bedroom heat vent and I keep it shut all the way.
You mightt try running the gas heat before prying on the vents or maybe a hair dryer.
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Old 02-15-2008, 03:54 AM   #10
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Mine were down with the two-sided tape in the kitchen. I used a stiff putty knife (wide one) to pry it up. They bent a little but straightened out pretty easily.

I think I'll replace with the ones that close.
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Old 02-15-2008, 04:02 AM   #11
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I have the traditional adjustable screwed down heat vents in my coach. However, the first year I noticed the lack of adequate heat to the front of the coach with too much in the bedroom where I don't want any. I lifted the vent grill in the bedroom and cut a 1/8" piece of steel plate to size of opening and dropped it in. That sent more air and heat to the front of the coach. 10 minute fix.
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Old 02-15-2008, 06:05 AM   #12
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I have had good results using a heat gun to soften both double sided tape and the adhesive Winnebago uses to glue the carpet down in some places.
It might be worth a try. I have seen them at Harbor Freight for about $20.
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Old 02-15-2008, 09:38 AM   #13
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Tuney-GA:


But I haven't broken the code on how to get even heat distribution through out the coach.
If I turn the heat up enough to get the living area comfortable, the bedroom is way too warm. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Tuney, try closing the vent in the bedroom at the base of the bed. This will force more heat towards the front of the coach.

In my prior 34' Journey I replaced the floor vent in the bathroom with a vent which will also close, and this also helped to force the heat towards the front. When you're showering, just open the vent, and then close it for the rest of the time.

With the return in the bedroom, it pulls the heat back anyhow, and the bedroom still stays nice and warm.

This helped quite a bit on my prior coach, keeping the front warmer. I haven't replaced the bathroom vent yet on the new coach. Might find the same problem on how to get it out of the floor!
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Old 02-15-2008, 09:52 AM   #14
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Not to be sour grapes but, you'd think that with all these folks putting in adjustable vents in the bedroom bathroom and kitchen Winne would take the hint and make them standard.
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Old 02-15-2008, 10:22 AM   #15
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If the vents are held in place by double-sided tape, I would use a straight-edge razor blade knife to cut through the tape between the vent and the floor. I buy them 3 for a dollar at the dollar store.
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Old 02-15-2008, 03:01 PM   #16
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UPDATE ON VENT REMOVAL: Today I tackled the job. Here is how I removed them and what I found works. First, I took a sharp long blade knife and carefully worked it all the way around the vent. This was to help remove the adhesive. Next, I took a very sharp "nail puller" with a wide flat sharp edge and worked it under one end and gently pryed working the nail puller all the way around until I could get my fingers underneath and pull the vent up. Wow, they used a very heavy duty cement glue on these things. I have never seen a cement glue so strong. No damage to the vents and all ended well. I put them back in with double face tape. I think I will change the vents next time and be done with it forever. Thanks all for your suggestions and help.
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Old 02-15-2008, 03:24 PM   #17
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In my Vectra the two rearmost heater vents, one in the bedroom at the foot of the bed and the other in the bath, can be closed via a lever on the vent. The forward three vents are not adjustable, however.
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Old 02-16-2008, 09:25 AM   #18
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Fun Time, thanks for letting us know what worked. The floor vent thing is on my list but you've saved me some headackes for sure. However, I think it just moved down the list some more!
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Old 06-10-2008, 01:05 AM   #19
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I installed damper floor vents in the rear of my moho from LOWES. they do not shut off completely, just enough to control heat distribution. i also installed a 12v 4 blade 40 inch reversing ceiling fan in the br, replacing the ceiling lite near the foot of the bed. i made an alum plate i think about 5 inches diameter and installed it to the ceiling with 10 #10 2.5 inch sheet metal screws. (6 or 8 probably would have been enough) and mounted the fan to the plate with the 3 provided .25 inch mount bolts. the fan is remote controlled, from BACKWOODS SOLAR 208.263.4290. works very well with the slideout in or out. it draws .5 amp on low speed. about $120 a year ago.
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Old 06-11-2008, 12:43 PM   #20
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Try two large blade putty knives. Work them under and slowly around the vent to be removed. Do not concentrate effort in one place because, as you probably know, the vents will bend.

We have two vents in the tile floor section that I remove every so oftem to clean the ducting. A type of gummy adhesive was used on ours. The adhesive stays on the underside of the vent. When reinstalling the vent, I just push the vent down a bit with the heel of my hand.
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