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Old 04-08-2015, 10:43 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by wilson8ford View Post
... The secondary filter is on the engine and looks difficult to get to. Any experience with changing that filter?
Thanks.
Changing that one is a pain. I decided to have mine relocated and add a priming pump: Relocated Fuel Filter & Added Priming Pump -- much better!
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Old 04-09-2015, 05:34 AM   #16
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Thanks. I just got the rig situated to begin the filter changes. I have a Harbor Freight strap wrench which I tested and it broke; only about four fiber cords in the wrench. What a poor quality! I'll have to pick up a respectable wrench; some things from HF are fine, but this is a piece of junk. More as the process moves along. Thanks for the info. I like the idea of putting a valve before the first filter. Is this closed during the filter change to keep the fuel from flowing back to the tank?
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Old 04-09-2015, 11:04 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilson8ford View Post
Thanks. I just got the rig situated to begin the filter changes. I have a Harbor Freight strap wrench which I tested and it broke; only about four fiber cords in the wrench. What a poor quality! I'll have to pick up a respectable wrench; some things from HF are fine, but this is a piece of junk. More as the process moves along. Thanks for the info. I like the idea of putting a valve before the first filter. Is this closed during the filter change to keep the fuel from flowing back to the tank?
After trying those rubber strap wrenches and breaking them I bought at Harbor Frieght a filter wrench that is kind of like a vise grip. It is adjustable and works well for me.
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Old 04-12-2015, 10:42 AM   #18
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I used an old stainless oil filter wrench on mine and it just fit perfectly.

Of course, I had no idea CAT made a 3126 330 until "ernieh" enlightened me. So your engine mounted fuel filter may be located a little differently than on my C7.

After my second filter change, I'm now favoring Chris Beierl's filter relocation project to the rear. I like the one mounted above the water trap for ease of access.

The ball valve will allow filter changes on the road side without having the fuel run back into the tank.
McMaster Carr P/N#4912K74 6.86-each
Miniature Chrome-Plated Brass Ball Valve, Wedge Handle, 1/2" NPT Female x Male Connections

As you can see from the photos, the engine mounted filter can take a little longer to change due to it's location.
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Old 04-13-2015, 07:15 AM   #19
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Thanks. I started the filter changing job and like the idea of putting ball valves on each side of the filter to turn off and prevent fuel line drainage. However, my problem is that I have to go to Athens, Georgia, several miles away, to find the necessary fittings. I like the idea of changing the secondary filter mounting from the engin to the rear of the mh, but find the lifting the bed to access the engine filter only takes about 20 minutes, so I think I'll leave it where it is for the time being.
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Old 04-13-2015, 05:08 PM   #20
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Yep, that was my thinking as well. Since we'll probably wanna clean between the radiator and CAC, lubricate the exhaust brake and check hose clamps periodically anyway.
I just hope an engine mounted fuel filter change doesn't become necessary along some deserted section of highway...Cheers and happy travels to you.
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Old 05-01-2015, 08:07 PM   #21
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The latest on my loss of power/filter issue: I replaced both filters. I liked Ron's idea of putting two ball valves on the primary filter to make changing filters easier:(not sure if the picture will up load). The primary filter is easy to reach with a 3" filter wrenth; however, the one on the motor is a bit closer quarters, so I purchased a Harbor Freight adjstable filter plires. I had some other work to do. When I purchased the mh, I know it had some rusted seal planes, so I replaced them. Winnebago carries the exact replacement--the holes and all are perfectly placed. At any rate, after that job was complete, we took the rig for a drive. All worked perfectly, so the filters were the problem. I cut the apart and the primary one and it had some slime in the settlement bowl, so I purchased some BioGuard to treat the fuel. The fuel tank has a settlement recess, so I drained about a gallon of fuel to see if there was any kind of trash in the fuel, but the fuel that came out, after the rig had been setting several days, was clear. I now have a couple extra filters, so if this happens again I think I can make the filter change in 20-30 minutes.

Thanks to all for your suggestions.
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Old 05-02-2015, 10:12 PM   #22
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No fuel filter related problems

Well we finally ransomed our '02. This has the Cummins on a freightliner frame. No pre-lift pump filter. Bad fuel I guess, caused rust to get into the lift pump.
New lift pump, warranty people won't cover it because rust is a "pre existing condition".
Put that on, and shop installed a pre-lift pump filter to prevent similar future issues.
Took off for home, got to first hard pull hill, SAME problem as before. Now they say injector pump is bad.
Warranty people deny this one too, same reason.
Test drive, still problems, bad injector this time.
Caused by(per warranty people), you guessed it that rust again. Interesting how it got all the way through a sediment bowl, two pumps, a fuel filter, and into an injector!
ANYWAY, IF you have a pre2002 Freightliner frame unit, get a filter added on pre-lift pump! Could save you a ton of money, as in, about $9grand!!
Damm poor design for sure.
The shop guys did a nice job of installing the filter easy access, thanks.
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Old 05-06-2015, 08:49 PM   #23
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Right after I got my 2002 Ultimate Advantage, I had the people at Cummins South install a dual fuel filter arrangement on the back rail of the frame. The 8.3 Cummins comes with one filter located above the starter on the engine -- very difficult to get to. The first filter is before the lift pump and the second one is before the injection pump. Best $450 I have ever spent as I can now change both filters easy. Just as a note to any 8.3 engine owners with dual fuel filters installed -- don't use any filter with a less than 10 micron filter rating (don't ask me how I found out) as any smaller opening will fuel starve the engine.
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Old 05-06-2015, 09:04 PM   #24
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I thought CAT used a 10 micron and then a 2 micron filter on their engines? We had a 3126 in our 2000 Dutch Star and I think that's what it had. But after 13 years I don't remember for sure.
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