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Old 11-11-2010, 04:49 PM   #1
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Smile Fixed the Norcold mod N842IM

The LP gas portion of our Norcold refrigerator mod. N842IM stopped working. The 110V portion worked fine so I knew it was not the cooling unit.

The first thing I did was adjust the sparker/senser unit to 1/8" from the burner. Flame would come on for about 10 seconds and the shut off. Panel flashed "NO FL".

Next, I replaced the sparker/senser with a new one. Part cost about $25.00. Same results as above.

the next step was to replace the circuit board. Reserched the web found circuit board prices ranged from $125/250 for a used rebuilt one to $325.00 for a new one.

Considering it took me about 2 hours to get the old one out, I decided to go with the new circuit board. I knew it was going to take at least 2 hours to get the new borad intalled. It took three hours.

Folks this is a fairly simple thing to do if you have four wrists and two elbows on each arm. With great care in marking all the wires and use of all my wrists and elbows I got the job done.

Went inside lit-er off and it worked perfectly. Test ran for an hour and cooling on both 110V and LP gas worked great. Happy day!!!!

I figure with a parts cost of $350.00 and my 5 hours labor I must have saved at least $500.00 to $1000.00.

Go for it. Great pride in accomplisment.

Pine Tree
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Old 11-11-2010, 07:24 PM   #2
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I need to do the same, except my 110v doesn't work... Where did you find the board at?
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Old 11-12-2010, 06:46 PM   #3
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Where to find refrigerator circuit board

Hi Jim,

Norclod will not sell direct to the likes of you and I. I had to go through my local Winnebago dealer who ordered the board for me. I'm sure they put their markup on the deal but what can one do?

Please don't let my explanation of the "task to replace" deter you. It was really not all that hard. Just be sure to buy and use some wire markers as there are a bunch of wires involved. Take your time and do it right and don't force anything. The whole thing is very straight forward.

I assume your frig works on LP and not on 110V. If that's the case it MAY be the board. Before you spend $300.00+ on a board, double check all your 110V connections. This stuff is all kind-of out side and exposed to the elements. You may just have a loose or dirty or corroded connection. Or maybe no 110V at all.

Special "lub-goo" is availabe to firm up all your connections. Be SURE to disconnect the 110V power first [pull the plug] Then pull each little blade connector apart one at a time, put some goo on and stick em back togather. Worth a try!!!

Good luck
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Old 11-12-2010, 07:04 PM   #4
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Special "lub-goo" is availabe to firm up all your connections.
Pine tree
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Pine Tree.......please give me some more details about the "lub-goo" product. like what'st he "real"name of it and where do you get it??
Thanks
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Old 11-12-2010, 07:31 PM   #5
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These people have Dinosaur boards which have a three year warranty and are superior to the Norcold boards. Check the part number that is printed on the actual circuit board to see if this is the board that this number will replace.

NEW Dinosaur PCB replaces Norcold 621267, 621269, 621270, 621271 : A.S.A.P.

Prior to replacing the board check the igniter wire from the control board to the burner. It sparks and lights the flame and also "senses"the flame by ionization to keep the propane valve open. If it doesn't sense the flame it turns off the gas valve. If you hear a snap snap snap and the flame lights but you continue to hear the snap snap snap at at about 5 second intervals then the flame shuts off the igniter and circuit board is not sensing the flame. Try changing the igniter wire and adjust to a gap of 1/8" to 3/16" first. They are only about $12.00 on the internet and if you end up having to change the circuit board the wire should be changed anyway.
My Norcold is a 8431M so I think the board is the same
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Old 11-12-2010, 07:33 PM   #6
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Thx Pine Tree.. I havent actually looked at it real close yet as I have been fixing other stuff on this RV, but was told it was already diagnosed as the control board... I do plan on double checking that however
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Old 11-15-2010, 08:00 AM   #7
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Smile name of Lub-Goo

Morning Jim,

I agree with the message from Lyle as stated above. He is "right on" in every resprct.

The Lub_Goo that I refered to is Brand Name G-B the product is called OX-GARD or OX-GARD 100. Same thing. I got mine at Menards in Minneapolis. You can get at any big box home store that sells electrical equipment.

This is a great product to have on hand in your MH. Just put a small [tiny] amount on any connection that seems to not making up well. Toad light connection - any thing. Keep-em working

G00d luck
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Old 11-15-2010, 04:18 PM   #8
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The Lub_Goo that I refered to is Brand Name G-B the product is called OX-GARD or OX-GARD 100. Same thing. I got mine at Menards in Minneapolis. You can get at any big box home store that sells electrical equipment. Pine Tree
Thanks Pine Tree
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Old 11-15-2010, 09:34 PM   #9
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Amazon.com: Gardner Bender OX-100B Ox-Gard Anti-Oxidant Compound: Home Improvement
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