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Old 08-03-2013, 06:43 AM   #21
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These pictures are in the wrong order. The last picture is how I found the post to look after I removed the passenger side front tire and the mud flap, and the rubber shielding flap. The 2nd picture is the cables after they fell out of the factory crimp job as I was trying to loosen up the nut on the post, and the first picture is the cables after I sprayed the battery cleaner spray on them and cleaned them up.
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Old 08-03-2013, 09:13 AM   #22
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These new fangled digital multimeters aren't always the best way to track down bad connections simply because their extremely high input impedance and minuscule current draw mean they will give a correct reading just about through thin air.
The old test lamp - two probes feeding a 12V 20 watt bulb - can be a much surer way of tracking down bad connections and faulty ground connections. Obviously not the right thing to use where electronic circuitry is concerned, but it has its uses elsewhere
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Old 08-03-2013, 03:12 PM   #23
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bobpie, do you have a battery isolation relay or diodes? I wonder if that could be the problem? Is the inverter wired correctly? Rewiring can be so frustrating. I use color tape to id what goes where. Sometimes I still get it wrong.
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Old 08-03-2013, 07:34 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerichorick View Post
bobpie, do you have a battery isolation relay or diodes? I wonder if that could be the problem? Is the inverter wired correctly? Rewiring can be so frustrating. I use color tape to id what goes where. Sometimes I still get it wrong.
That is what I was thinking, The problem was the grounding bar. Four bolts are connected to it. I removed all, and cleaned them up and reinstalled. All is good now.

12volts as needed.
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Old 08-03-2013, 07:50 PM   #25
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Maybe the factory workers should buy the tool and do a better job of crimping the cables on a new motorhome when they are building it! I have a crimping tool, thanks. I wonder how I should go about getting reimbursed for all my time and expense in parts to fix this problem.
You are lucky they are not charging you for all the hands on experience you are getting. Just consider it another opportunity to but more tools.
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Old 08-03-2013, 08:07 PM   #26
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When the Harbor Freight crimp tool was mentioned , was this the
tool ?
Hydraulic Wire Crimping Tool
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Old 08-03-2013, 09:58 PM   #27
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Yes.
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Old 08-03-2013, 10:02 PM   #28
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Thanks to all !! I have wanted to add a battery cut off switch and the proper crimp tool will make wiring secure.
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Old 08-04-2013, 04:03 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Tony Lee View Post
The old test lamp - two probes feeding a 12V 20 watt bulb - can be a much surer way of tracking down bad connections and faulty ground connections.
Another option, if all you have is newfangled tech, is to turn on a load in the circuit while testing. Turn on all the lights, or even run the water heater if your inverter has the capacity to supply that much power. Then check for voltage drop at each connection point. You can do this by measuring voltage at each side of the connection relative to a ground reference (i.e. looking for 12vdc on the display).

The other method is to look for an impedance in the connection by placing a probe on either side of a connection point. For example, set the meter to read DC volts and place one probe on a terminal post of a ground bus bar. Then touch the other probe to each of the crimp terminals connected to the bus bar. You should always get a reading of zero volts. If you see a voltage at one of the terminals, you have a poor connection, possibly due to corrosion. Remember that this test only works if current is running through the circuit. Now remember to turn off the water heater before it drains your batteries.

Another sign of a bad connection is heat. If it is safe to do so, check the temperature around a connection. For example, if you plug a high usage constant load into an AC extension cord (e.g. heater or air conditioner), hold the receptacle end of the cord in your hand after the appliance has been running for a while. If the connector is warm or hot, you have a bad connection between the spring steel in the receptacle and the blades of the plug. If it is hot enough to start melting the receptacle, this is a fire waiting to happen. As product quality declines, this is a growing concern. If the entire extension cord is warm, then you need a heavier gauge cord.

Sorry. It started as my 2 cents, but you got the whole nickel.
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Old 08-08-2013, 06:16 AM   #30
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Very Interesting
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Old 08-14-2013, 03:49 PM   #31
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And the engine and generator keep on starting! Now it is time 2 change the rear sway bar bushings. Fun Fun Fun.
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Old 11-24-2013, 07:54 AM   #32
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New bushings in and all is level. Wow!
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Old 11-24-2013, 08:35 AM   #33
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Was your coach leaning to the passenger side? My coach is leaning and the sway bar bushings are shot. I have the bushings, but haven't put them in yet.
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Old 12-08-2013, 02:27 PM   #34
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Yes it was, John all is good now.
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Old 12-09-2013, 09:42 AM   #35
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Along with proper crimping, a good quality shrink wrap with adhesive inside assures a solid connection with little or no corrosion. I bought my shrink wrap for battery cables at NAPA.
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