Journey fridge swap, Norcold to residential - Page 2

smlranger · 09-02-2012, 06:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomsm

Gary - Thanks for the info. The more I look at your pictures, the more I appreciate how much good work your shop did to absorb the extra depth and reduced width.

I'm still partial to the Samsung, and since it's width and depth is almost a perfect fit for our opening, it may not be any harder to install. I'm not sure I could pull off the beautiful cabinet work that makes yours look so nice.

I may just turn the subwoofer 90 degrees and mount it on the lower pantry wall. Whatever I do, I'll post pictures in a few months. It's nice that we can learn for each others successes (and mistakes

)...

Tom, unless I read the specs wrong or have just forgotten, the Samsung RF197 (or it's similar sisters) is taller than the Frigidaire. If you use that one, you can probably lower the little 12v breaker panel and the LP leak detector enough, but you will likely have to relocate the subwoofer.

KIX · 09-02-2012, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smlranger

Tom, unless I read the specs wrong or have just forgotten, the Samsung RF197 (or it's similar sisters) is taller than the Frigidaire. If you use that one, you can probably lower the little 12v breaker panel and the LP leak detector enough, but you will likely have to relocate the subwoofer.

When we were contemplating swapping the reefer to the Samsung we disconnected the sub woofer that WAS under our Norcold and I honestly couldn't tell any difference in the sound of the stereo or surround sound. Bear in mind that my hearing isn't what it used to be. So, to be able to install the Samsung at floor level we deleted the sub woofer and relocated the LP detector and central vacuum.

SML, I don't know about the height of the various batteries but the Trojan T105's fit at the Kwikee tray height without trimming anything.

tomsm · 09-03-2012, 05:19 AM

Gary & KIX - Thanks for the help. I had also considered just disconnecting the subwoofer, since I'm no longer a big audio buff. If I could figure out what to do with the DC breaker panel, I could put the frig on the floor like KIX did. That would really be my first choice. Being able to roll it in and out for service without using a platform would be ideal. Maybe I can extend the DC wiring to reach the lower sidewall of the pantry...

Don't want to hijack Gary's thread, so I'll start a new one when I get back home in a few months. Thanks again for the suggestions.

smlranger · 09-03-2012, 06:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomsm

Gary & KIX - Thanks for the help. I had also considered just disconnecting the subwoofer, since I'm no longer a big audio buff. If I could figure out what to do with the DC breaker panel, I could put the frig on the floor like KIX did. That would really be my first choice. Being able to roll it in and out for service without using a platform would be ideal. Maybe I can extend the DC wiring to reach the lower sidewall of the pantry...

Don't want to hijack Gary's thread, so I'll start a new one when I get back home in a few months. Thanks again for the suggestions.

I agree that removing/relocating all that stuff at the bottom would give you the best install considering ease of access to the fridge and for future service. What we now have gives good access to the fridge but the freezer is a reach, especially for us vertically-challenged folks

. Actually, not much different than with the Norcold.

KIX · 09-03-2012, 05:34 PM

Tomsm........Consider re-routing or lengthening (probably up to two feet will be okay) the supply for your 12 vdc panel. Consider even mounting it in the ceiling of the basement bay just under the reefer.

tomsm · 09-04-2012, 04:57 AM

KIX - Good idea. I pulled the 12vdc panel yesterday just to see what else might be in the way under the frig floor. There is a lot of slack in the harness for the 12vdc panel so I could move it to several out of the way places.

BUT, the drain line from the kitchen sink going aft to the grey tank passes through that area. It's about 23" from the front of the cabinet face to the drain line. I could barely reach behind (outboard of) the drain line, but it felt like it was an inch or so away from the outside wall. Once the old frig and elevated frig floor are out, I can probably reroute that drain against the outside wall and get the 24" I need.

I probably won't really know all the options till that elevated frig floor is out and I can really have access to everything. Worst case would be to build a new elevated floor a couple of inches above the main floor. I sure would prefer to have the frig sitting on the main floor like yours though. I'll check back when I get home in a few months and get the old frig and floor out...

NoMoreAZ · 09-07-2012, 12:12 PM

smlranger,

Some questions about your install.

Was the other Winne owner's Horizon referred to owned by a Mr. C....?

If the need arises to remove the refrigerator for service, how is this done? Side framing screws referred to in your initial post seem a bit of an overkill?

Do the added latches for the doors installed by the custom shop work?

Do you believe your refrigerator is covered by the 1 year manufacturer's warranty? (See Use & Care Guide, pg 13, item 7 under Exclusions.)

smlranger · 09-07-2012, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoMoreAZ

smlranger,

Some questions about your install.

Was the other Winne owner's Horizon referred to owned by a Mr. C....?

Yes, it was John Canfield. He has a blog discussing his similar install.

If the need arises to remove the refrigerator for service, how is this done? Side framing screws referred to in your initial post seem a bit of an overkill?

Remove the screws holding the fridge and slide it out of the opening. Since mine is above the coach floor, a platform would need to be used. Also, the compressor and fan motor can be reached from the lower back (outside) by removing the vent cover that was there for the Norcold.

This shop has done many of the residential fridge swaps and likes to secure the fridge well. Overkill?? Maybe.

Do the added latches for the doors installed by the custom shop work?

I've only driven the coach home from the shop and the doors stayed shut. Based on the amount of force needed to pull the doors open, I believe they will stay shut. It takes a bit more force to open them than with the Norcold.

Do you believe your refrigerator is covered by the 1 year manufacturer's warranty? (See Use & Care Guide, pg 13, item 7 under Exclusions.)

Haven't given the warranty much thought. I told the salesman at Lowe's the fridge was going to be installed in a motorhome and he said nothing. I realize that would not hold water if I need warranty work but I would certainly try to hold Lowe's accountable if warranty repairs were needed. My thinking is most modern fridges are pretty reliable and a breakdown in the first year would be rare, especially since it is a pretty simple fridge...just an icemaker and nothing else fancy.

So far, so good.

NoMoreAZ · 09-08-2012, 04:14 PM

smlranger,

Thanks for your answers to my questions in post 27.

In post #13 you mentioned that the roof vent was left in place. I take it that the hole was not plugged with styrofoam bonded to wood, MDF, or anything? Fresh breeze still allowed to enter top of refrigerator?

The question about the warranty was prompted by the mention in post 20 that an extended warranty was not obtainable because the refrigerator was to be installed in a motorhome.

Understand the platform for the unit out of its housing. Make a dolly or go to Harbor Freight and get one. Have the same consideration here, unit would be off the floor. Since the interior height of our Horizon is 7 feet we have a small wide cabinet above the Norcold now. DW says that stays! Below unit is propane detector and a vent. Main gas furnace is below floor. Doing some measurements, I think some vertical space could be gained both above and below the unit.

We may contact Motorcoach Services. You have a very nice install.

smlranger · 09-08-2012, 04:48 PM

They told me they did not plug the roof vent since it has a screen and rain cap. The thinking is that any heat that may develop in the space would exit that vent.

I've been checking the temp of the exhaust air exiting the front lower grill and it has not seemed very warm. I have the AC set at 80F inside (since it is just parked and not in use) and we've had several 90+ days this past two weeks. Freezer easily holds -2/-4 and fridge 39F on the 'normal' setting.

If you call Motorcoach Services, ask for either Mark or J.C. You will not be disappointed in their work.

Ed O. · 09-09-2012, 06:56 AM

I like the idea of going this route to replace our Norcold, but besides the cost savings of a new Norcold what are the disadvantages going this route. Do you just need to run the genset while you are traveling?

doorguy · 09-09-2012, 07:47 AM

I just swapped out my 3 12V. for four Costco 6V's. They fit in the existing tray nicely but side to side, front to back. I followed FIREUP's installation and pics almost exactly. NAPA auto parts had the cables and eylets to make new cables. I soldered the ends into the eyelets. They work very nicely.

A side note, does anyone know FIREUP, Scott Raines? We had been talking about the battery install via private emails and I haven't seen any activity from him since beginning of Aug when he emailed me. I get no response from him now. Just a concerned IRV2 friend......

smlranger · 09-09-2012, 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by doorguy

I just swapped out my 3 12V. for four Costco 6V's. They fit in the existing tray nicely but side to side, front to back. I followed FIREUP's installation and pics almost exactly. NAPA auto parts had the cables and eylets to make new cables. I soldered the ends into the eyelets. They work very nicely.

A side note, does anyone know FIREUP, Scott Raines? We had been talking about the battery install via private emails and I haven't seen any activity from him since beginning of Aug when he emailed me. I get no response from him now. Just a concerned IRV2 friend......

Scott is alive and well. Check out his thread in this forum on his nearly complete rebuild of his Onan genset.

I will also soon be replacing three 12v batteries with four 6v Duracell GC2's from Sam's Club. Did you have to use a small torch to solder the new lugs to the cable you got from NAPA?

smlranger · 09-09-2012, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ed O.

I like the idea of going this route to replace our Norcold, but besides the cost savings of a new Norcold what are the disadvantages going this route. Do you just need to run the genset while you are traveling?

If you have an inverter and good batteries, you can run the residential fridge while you are traveling. On most coaches, the engine alternator keeps the house batteries charged so you would not have to run the genset. I just upgraded my old modified sine wave inverter to a larger pure sine wave unit and plan to use it to power the fridge while we are moving down the road.

The primary 'disadvantage' of having a residential fridge would be if you normally camp in places without shore power, or 'boondock.' You would either have to run your genset or have an inverter and a good battery bank. Even then, you would have to periodically run the genset to charge the batteries. Some folks add large solar panels to keep the batteries charged.

Our off-grid times are limited to an overnight in a Walmart lot while traveling. We will use the inverter at night and rely on our auto generator start to start the generator if the inverter pulls the batteries down.

KIX · 09-09-2012, 06:37 PM

On our coach with a Samsung RF197 the inverter powers the Samsung. Our battery bank is 4 six volt Trojan T105's which can be recharged via the engine alternator while on the road. Our battery bank will power the reefer for 24 + hours without recharge.

KIX · 09-09-2012, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smlranger

Did you have to use a small torch to solder the new lugs to the cable you got from NAPA?

BTW......you can buy eyelets and solder "slugs" that are pre-sized for the solder connection. I wish I could remember the brand name. When soldering large wires it can be a little tedious to get everything hot enough at one time without burning the wire insulation. The solder slugs would make the job very easy.
Maybe try a Google search

smlranger · 09-09-2012, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KIX

BTW......you can buy eyelets and solder "slugs" that are pre-sized for the solder connection. I wish I could remember the brand name. When soldering large wires it can be a little tedious to get everything hot enough at one time without burning the wire insulation. The solder slugs would make the job very easy.
Maybe try a Google search

I will look into that. A local auto/truck parts store claims to be able to make up battery cables (must have a special crimping tool). I will check them out and inquire about the slugs.

Also, how many amps does your Samsung draw on average?

KIX · 09-09-2012, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smlranger

I will look into that. A local auto/truck parts store claims to be able to make up battery cables (must have a special crimping tool). I will check them out and inquire about the slugs.

Crimp connections can corrode.

Also, how many amps does your Samsung draw on average?

I've never seen more than 2 on AC. Having said that it has to draw more like when defrosting. I guess I've never looked at the right time.

RLS · 09-10-2012, 06:54 AM

Can you tell us what type of door latches were used? Make , Model , Part number, etc?

HD4Mark · 09-10-2012, 07:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RLS

Can you tell us what type of door latches were used? Make , Model , Part number, etc?

We use Velcro on both the fridge and freezer doors. The fridge is just a web strap wound around with Velcro, freezer has a piece stuck on the drawer and on on the side of the fridge with a continuous piece to hold them together. The Samsung is black and so are the Velcro strips so they are not noticeable. It was intended to be a temporary solution until we came up with a better one but worked so well we just left it.