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Old 12-02-2018, 06:11 PM   #21
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I’m going to chime in on this. I’ve owned two Class C motorhomes, a 1978 18 foot Cruise Master by Georgie Boy that I owned for 39 years, and only replaced it with a 2018 Minnie Winnie 22M because the old Cruise Master that I knew every inch of was getting rather long of tooth, I was getting tired of having to climb into the cabover bed and I was retiring (I just turned 67) and knew I deserved a new rig.

The reason I cannot envision having a rig without a gas absorption RV refrigerator is that on my last camping trip with my wife and granddaughter was the first time I’ve had hookups of any sort in 20 years. I’m a confirmed boondocker, usually in state parks or USFS campgrounds, and a fav spot I’ve camped at for the last 30 years is simply a spot out in the forest. I simply don’t have a need to have hookups.

However, what my issue is the type of LP refrigerator. My old rig had a small Intermatic that finally died that I replaced with a Dometic. When I bought my MW 22M with a Norcold refrigerator, I had a different operating system. The Intermatic and Dometic had pilot lights. The Norcold shuts off and relights. For the first time, I discovered what the manual said about issues using it above 5500 feet. Well, a lot of California mountains are over 5500 feet. I just wish there was an option for the refrigerator to have a constantly burning pilot light that would solve the issue of the inability to relight itself. Fortunately, the one spot we camped at 6500 feet when I manually cycled the refrigerator, it would relight. But have no idea if I went above that elevation.

Finally, don’t take away the LP refrigerator! I see that Winnebago introduced a new Class C line, the Outlook that uses a residential refrigerator. I certainly would not be interested in it.

Lee
Sacramento
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Old 12-02-2018, 08:30 PM   #22
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If you need a dc fridge for boondocking there are small chest style (think icechest) available which run on ac or dc.
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Old 12-02-2018, 11:53 PM   #23
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I agree, we love the residential refrig but when boondocking miss the LPG refrig. I remember the 12v/110v/LP refrig, never understood why they disappeared, I guess $.

The world moves on...............

I think has more to do with the increasing size of RV absorption refrigerators. The 12V heating element pulls anywhere from 10A to 15A which will drain a battery in no time. Based on conversations I had with Dometic about our old trailer's 3-way fridge they said the 12V element is not very efficient and becomes less so the larger the fridge. So I think in the end while not having one saves money it is really more about practicality and cooling efficiency.
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Old 12-03-2018, 08:45 AM   #24
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It certainly has to be a matter of what one is looking for and that often means compromise on something. A great big bus with a full blown frig and freezer can be nice but that size also comes with the fact that you will often not get into the nicest campsites, simply due to size. So what is the nicest campsite to each? Some will go for having a clubhouse and being willing to hear the neighbor every time he hiccups while others are far happier with not even seeing a neighbor while camping.
I like options, so having a smaller unit has many advantages to me and that also means having several options for how to run the frig. I wanted to run it on AC when I'm plugged in and I certainly DO NOT want the generator running, I would rather let it run on the chassis battery while driving but if I'm not driving, nor plugged in, I want the propane option. But since the new trade is only AC or propane, I have to look at it as a compromise that I made, see how I like it and trade if I don't.
I see things I buy as being much like roommates. Some work out and stay , while others are moved out!
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Old 12-03-2018, 12:38 PM   #25
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Love our 3way fridg on auto using AC at home / camp ground ,DC driving down the road and LP when boondocking 2018 Winnie view 24V
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Old 12-04-2018, 06:42 PM   #26
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Watch out when I go out you can’t find another one just like it
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Old 12-04-2018, 07:21 PM   #27
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There seems to be a conflict between the last two posts? One says they just got a new RV with a three way frig and the next says it can't be replaced? Seems like if they were still installing them in the 2018 models that would indicate that the frig is still available, would it not?
Perhaps it is a matter of a specific model that was not available as a three way but a quick Google found this site with several different models of three way available:
https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/...s-and-freezers
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Old 12-05-2018, 05:00 AM   #28
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Are the residential fridges capable of handling the constant vibration and shocks of going down the road?
Hard to find a residential sitting in a brick and stick that holds up w/out problems.
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Old 12-05-2018, 08:33 AM   #29
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It would be my guess that the term "residential refrigerator is more a marketing thing than an actual design of the frig. Just too many things on the normal home frig that would not work.
Some small point are pretty obvious, like the condensation drip pans. You can drive around with a pan full of water underneath waiting for it to evaporate! You can't do the ice maker the same and have it filling trays while you are sloshing down the road, can you?
How to hang a compressor so that it can flex as it starts and stops but not break the lines when it goes around a corner? I'm betting it has to use some pretty obvious mods to get around the stress of moving an RV.
One of the first things on me buying another RV, was the fact that fish tanks were out! Gonna have to change hobbies!
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Old 12-05-2018, 09:27 AM   #30
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I think they are actually residential models not some RV specific "residential" fridge. For years people have been sourcing these from Lowes and Home Depot to replace RV fridges in their RVs. This is not a new thing.

We have a residential 3-door Whirlpool fridge. and it's a regular home fridge.

As for bumping down the road in an RV. I have seen zero posts on any RV forum about this causing any issues. You do see people using MSW inverters posting about electrical control board problems. But not with PSW inverters.

Long term, as in more than 5 years will there be issues? I've seen none reported. And, unlike an RV fridge which costs between $1,2000 - $2900 to replace (I looked up those prices... small 2-door $1200 and large 4-door $2900) you can usually replace a residential fridge for much less. (I just checked this and our large 3-door stainless fridge would cost $720 to replace.)

Do your own search at any RV Forum see if you see a lot (a few even) people reporting issues from their residential fridge. Compare that to the number of RV fires you see reported on forums from RV Fridges?

The one thing you will see is people that find the 3-fuel operation of an RV fridge really great for boondocking. And some that seem to resent the entire residential fridge and even 12v compressor fridge options being available.
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Old 12-05-2018, 09:34 AM   #31
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IYou can't do the ice maker the same and have it filling trays while you are sloshing down the road, can you?
You can... but you end up with an ice dam in your ice bin.

Most of us simply turn off the ice maker as part of the getting ready to travel process. We sometimes forget - but if the pump isn't left on than even that is not a problem.

Compressor failures are not being reported either. Check with folks that own an RV with a residential fridge. No issues and we can tell from model numbers that these are home refrigerators. Ours is available - same model number - at Lowes.
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Old 12-05-2018, 04:10 PM   #32
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Check this video.

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Old 12-05-2018, 04:50 PM   #33
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Sears says don't put it in your pickup he says. What? How does he think residential fridges get delivered from factories to warehouses? And from Warehouses to distributors? And, from Distributors to stores? And, finally to your home? Via a big truck with a big truck kind of ride, that's how. "Like an earthquake 4.0 on the Richter Scale!"
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Old 12-11-2018, 04:19 AM   #34
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Sue/Tom;
A "DC Fridge" is unlike a RV fridge in one major way. A compressor.

A RV fridge is a gas absorption device. It uses heat as it's main cooling function which is why it works on 12v OR LPG. Either fuel is used to create heat to evaporate the gas and create cooling. A DC fridge has a compressor to create cooling - like a residential fridge - BUT the compressor in a DC Fridge runs on 12v DC current. While a residential fridge also has a compressor but it runs on 110v AC current.

For either a DC Fridge or a Residential fridge you need either to be plugged into shore power (or on a generator) OR a battery bank with sufficient power storage.

With the DC Fridge when plugged into shore power your converter (or inverter/charger) provides 12v to run the fridge compressor. When you are not plugged in or using your generator then your battery bank provides the 12v power.

With a Residential Fridge when plugged into shore power or running your generator you are delivering 110v to run the fridge compressor. When you are not plugged in or using your generator then your battery bank provides 110v power from an inverter that transforms 12v into 110v.

Many people prefer a compressor type of fridge because of how quickly they cool down and how cold they can get. Also, there is a slight fire hazard with gas absorption fridges that is eliminated with compressor type fridges. There is also a cost difference with gas absorption fridges costing much more than similar sized compressor fridges.

Certainly there are a great many RVers that like the option of using LPG to run their fridge which make the RV Fridge a great option for folks that want to spend a lot of time unplugged.
That is a great explanation.......very appreciated!
Thank you
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Old 12-11-2018, 12:54 PM   #35
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Fish tanks!

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Originally Posted by Morich View Post
....
One of the first things on me buying another RV, was the fact that fish tanks were out! Gonna have to change hobbies!

I know you're just joking about this, but back in the streamliner days of after World War II when the railroads were buying new and really innovative passenger equipment, one railroad, Chesapeake and Ohio actually designed built in fish tanks in their lounge car. Only problem is that the constant motion of the train and of course there's the question of the quality of the aeration of the tank, the fish promptly died. Interesting idea, but didn't work out!
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Old 12-21-2018, 03:42 PM   #36
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Thanks. Our MH also has a residential refrig and we really love it. We do boondock on and off and have added 4 panels(165w) each, a better battery monitor and 4 AGM batteries(mainly because DH was lazy and the batteries were not on a slideout tray-poor design).



We originally had 2 panels and added 2 more on a separate controller. This way we can add 2 more panels easily and we do have the roof space for 2 more. Also less expensive have two controllers.
When boondocking how long can you go without the generator having to be used because of the fridge?
You are set up how I would like to on solar but concerned with a residential fridge how long we could go w/out firing up the Gen.........Thanks!
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Old 12-21-2018, 04:20 PM   #37
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We were told by our solar installer that 3 panels are the minimum. Our main goal was to limit our generator to the 2 hours AM and 2 hours PM allowed by many parks. When we were a Jacob Lake, AZ we ran the generator in the PM just because we could. We have never tested how long we could go without running the generator.


We want to test how long we can last but have been very busy since we pulled into winter camp and it is a low priority project. We will be at Escapade in Tucson in March(hopefully) and will try to do a test then.



We personally feel the AGM made a big difference, they charge so much faster. We only bought Sams Club AGM but when they need to be replaced we will upscale unless we get exceptional use out of them.



Sorry I really haven't answered your question.
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Old 12-24-2018, 02:11 AM   #38
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DC Refrigerator

The reason for the compressor refrigerator is the 3 way's were too small 5cu foot in the class C's and weighed too much to go larger. The DC compressor ones are larger, much larger. The DC ref will run 5 days before the batteries run down enought to be recharged. I have 300 watts of solar and 2 100ah lithium batteries under my steps where the original ones were. More batteries could be put in any compartment as they do not leak or vent. 18 Navion D
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