Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-11-2019, 01:40 PM   #1
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 1,311
Basement Air - Compressor #2

I finally got back to my basement air issue now that I've sorted out some transfer switch issues. My MH is wired for 30A shore power. The generator is wired to the transfer switch to feed both 30A and 20A. Here's a summary of where I am:

1. Shore Power - I'm plugged into my garage so I don't have a full 30A available but Compressor #1 works, drawing 15 - 16A (with no other loads). Compressor #2 tries to start but doesn't "catch" and run. I've also replaced both the start and run capacitors on compressor #2 with no improvement.

2. Generator - Same results as with shore power even though both 30A and 20A generator circuits are energized. I read on another thread that the power management system isn't going to show the additional amps from the 20A generator circuit so I've confirmed that there's no additional draw by using a clamp-on ammeter on the 20A wire going to the transfer switch. Compressor #2 is definitely not running.

3. I've also confirmed that 120V is available at the A/C control board for both compressors.

4. It's actually doing pretty well just on compressor #1. It's 99 degrees outside (12:51pm here in the Sacramento area) and the thermostat room temperature is 82 degrees (76 degrees set point). The air coming from vents is 62 -63 degrees. The MH is in my driveway in full sun. The amp draw is steady at 16A on shore power. I've had it on since about 10am so it never built up a very big heat load to overcome.

If I can narrow the problem down to a bad compressor, I'll probably just replace the whole unit. It's 17 years old and I can't see spending a lot of money on replacing the compressor, etc. On the other hand, if it's a relay, control board or similar issue I'm open to repairing it (DIY of course).

Replacing the capacitors was the obvious place to start but, other than going through the step-by-step troubleshooting guide from the manual, does anyone have any ideas?

Are there any parts between the control board/capacitors/relays and compressor #2 that could have failed that would require pulling the unit to diagnose and replace?

Thanks.
__________________
Bob C
2002 Itasca Suncruiser 35U
W20 Chassis
BobC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2019, 08:30 PM   #2
Winnebago Owner
 
youracman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 53
Sometimes an older compressor is described by HVAC guys as "a hard starter" and they MAY just need a kick in the pants. I would suggest that you try one of the hard start capacitor assys such as those available from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Supco-SPP6-Ha...s%2C185&sr=8-2

Some guys call them a "kicker" and they are not all that expensive to try. The units shown further down on the Amazon "Hard Start Capacitor for RVs" page would be a better choice for longevity. They have a potential relay and just last longer. But just to see if you need the hard start, the SUPCO would be an inexpensive way to go. Two connections to make (with the power off) and just hang it inside with a nylon tie strap or two. The large capacitor in your unit right now is the start/run capacitor; the kicker will parallel that cap with a huge value of capacitance for a large increase in starting torque and it will drop out in probably 800 msec or so......just a "kick in the pants" and then gone. (Capacitors in parallel are additive; just the opposite of resistors which, in series, are additive.)

I suspect you may know all this "stuff" but I just include it FWIW .... maybe to others.

Might give it a try..........since it is so inexpensive (and if it works, buy a Lotto ticket :^] )

Good luck and safe travels...............
__________________
Ed Sievers, Denver, CO
07 WGO 31ft Class C; Toad: '16 Soul with 6-spd DIY
"Be the person you needed when you were younger"
youracman is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2019, 10:30 PM   #3
Winnebago Owner
 
youracman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 53
Ooops! On re-reading your post I see you have replaced the start AND run capacitors. I was thinking (obviously not, really) that your unit didn't have start caps. Disregard the above. My bad.

Good luck on the fix.
__________________
Ed Sievers, Denver, CO
07 WGO 31ft Class C; Toad: '16 Soul with 6-spd DIY
"Be the person you needed when you were younger"
youracman is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2019, 09:08 AM   #4
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 1,311
Quote:
Originally Posted by youracman View Post
Ooops! On re-reading your post I see you have replaced the start AND run capacitors. I was thinking (obviously not, really) that your unit didn't have start caps. Disregard the above. My bad.

Good luck on the fix.
Thanks anyway, it may help out a future reader.
__________________
Bob C
2002 Itasca Suncruiser 35U
W20 Chassis
BobC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2019, 01:45 PM   #5
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 537
What is the amp draw when compressor #2 tries to start? Does it jump up from the 15-16 amps to over 30 and stay there? If so something is wrong with compressor #2.

Any chance you can us your clamp on amp meter to measure the wire going to comp #2 to see if amps are going high and staying there?
__________________
Al & Sharon
2006 Winnebago Journey 36G
al1florida is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2019, 04:41 PM   #6
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 1,311
It jumps but I don't remember how high. You can hear the start-up sound for a couple of seconds and then it stops and immediately drops down to the 15-16 amps. I've suspected it's bad but want to eliminate all other possibilities.

One thing I've thought about trying is to switch the wires around so that Compressor 2 becomes Compressor 1. The only thing that would prevent this from being a definitive test is if there is a part or part(s) between the control board, relays, etc and the compressor. I don't know the answer to that question.
__________________
Bob C
2002 Itasca Suncruiser 35U
W20 Chassis
BobC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2019, 10:29 AM   #7
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 537
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobC View Post
It jumps but I don't remember how high. You can hear the start-up sound for a couple of seconds and then it stops and immediately drops down to the 15-16 amps. I've suspected it's bad but want to eliminate all other possibilities.

One thing I've thought about trying is to switch the wires around so that Compressor 2 becomes Compressor 1. The only thing that would prevent this from being a definitive test is if there is a part or part(s) between the control board, relays, etc and the compressor. I don't know the answer to that question.
About the part or parts question.
I too would like to know.

What I did find on my 2006 Journey, is that if I switch off the 20amp AC circuit breaker labeled "A/C Circuit 2" nothing works on the air conditioner. The fan won't run and no compressors start. It seems like the fan motor is powered by the #2 C/B. If I switch off "A/C Circuit 1" then the fan will start and stop and one compressor will run. I have no idea if that is compressor #1 of #2. Probably doesn't matter.
__________________
Al & Sharon
2006 Winnebago Journey 36G
al1florida is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2019, 11:52 AM   #8
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 1,311
The 30A breaker A/C 1 is supposed to be compressor #1. The 20A breaker A/C 2 is supposed to be compressor #2. Compressor #1 should start first and run while compressor #2 will start and run second, based on the temperature differential. Here's how the Basement A/C manual describes the sequence:

8. A TYPICAL COOLING CYCLE OF THE HEAT PUMP

Begins with a call from the wall thermostat for High or Low fan (customer choice).

Indoor fan starts on the selected speed.

Within a few seconds the thermostat will call for cooling.

Compressor 1 starts.

Outdoor fan starts 2 seconds later (Low Speed).

1 minute later the thermostat calls for second stage cool (subject to 2 degree temp. differential).

Compressor 2 starts, the outdoor fan goes off (subject to available 115 volt power supply).

Outdoor fan starts again 2 seconds later (High Speed).

Both systems operate to satisfy the thermostat.

Both compressors shut off at setpoint temperature.

When the thermostat calls for cooling again it will start by calling for stage one only.

If the heat pump is unable to keep up with the load, stage 2 will start again when the indoor temperature is 2 degrees above the setpoint.

If it's not operating properly, I'd suggest you check your wiring diagram. If you're not the original owner, there's a possibility that a prior owner has mis-wired something:

http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/...ire_153555.pdf
__________________
Bob C
2002 Itasca Suncruiser 35U
W20 Chassis
BobC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2019, 12:32 PM   #9
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 537
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobC View Post
The 30A breaker A/C 1 is supposed to be compressor #1. The 20A breaker A/C 2 is supposed to be compressor #2. Compressor #1 should start first and run while compressor #2 will start and run second, based on the temperature differential. Here's how the Basement A/C manual describes the sequence:

8. A TYPICAL COOLING CYCLE OF THE HEAT PUMP

Begins with a call from the wall thermostat for High or Low fan (customer choice).

Indoor fan starts on the selected speed.

Within a few seconds the thermostat will call for cooling.

Compressor 1 starts.

Outdoor fan starts 2 seconds later (Low Speed).

1 minute later the thermostat calls for second stage cool (subject to 2 degree temp. differential).

Compressor 2 starts, the outdoor fan goes off (subject to available 115 volt power supply).

Outdoor fan starts again 2 seconds later (High Speed).

Both systems operate to satisfy the thermostat.

Both compressors shut off at setpoint temperature.

When the thermostat calls for cooling again it will start by calling for stage one only.

If the heat pump is unable to keep up with the load, stage 2 will start again when the indoor temperature is 2 degrees above the setpoint.

If it's not operating properly, I'd suggest you check your wiring diagram. If you're not the original owner, there's a possibility that a prior owner has mis-wired something:

http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/...ire_153555.pdf
Great info. Thanks Bob.

I have many or most of the wiring diagrams for my RV, I guess I missed that one.
__________________
Al & Sharon
2006 Winnebago Journey 36G
al1florida is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2019, 05:37 PM   #10
Winnebago Master
 
AFChap's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: ...hopefully on the road!
Posts: 1,581
If only one compressor is running, that is #1. Compressor #2 WILL NOT RUN uness #1 is running.
__________________
Paul (KE5LXU) ...was fulltimin', now parttimin'
'03 Winnebago UA 40e / '05 Honda Odyssey toad
AFChap is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2019, 08:39 PM   #11
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,016
Compressor #1 and the rest of the system should run even if you turn off the breaker to compressor #2. I shut down the breaker to the second compressor when plugged into the 20 amp service in my garage and I have a 2001 35U since if we have a power fluctuation the One Place power management will loose the 20 amp setting which has to be set manually and then blow the breaker. The capacitors according to the service manual are supposed to be sold and replaced as a set with the capacitor and the solid state device and should be sold as a matched set.

When I first got my 35U they switched around the wiring when they replaced the transfer switch and had compressor #2 connected to the breaker from compressor #1 and visa vie so that would be the first situation to check for since it appears to be a common mistake.

I switched the wires feeding the capacitor for compressor #1 to compressor #2 to verify the compressor when I first had problems and the #2 compressor ran fine and compressor #1 then wouldn't start verifying the problem was still in the capacitors.

I eliminated all these problems when I put an Autoformer in my coach to correct the low voltage from extended brownouts from damaging electrical components which probably should be addressed after you sort this out. It has been about 7 years now since I've had to deal with a problem with any of the capacitors or solid state devices in my AC unit, control boards, transfer switches, etc since I starting using the Autoformer to correct low voltage issues which has saved me thousands of dollars in services.
__________________
Neil V
2001 Winnebago Adventurer WFG35U
NeilV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2019, 08:50 PM   #12
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 14
The system can be rewired to make number 2 compressor be number 1. My number 1 unit failed a while back and a tech moved a couple of wires on the circuit board to make my number 2 take over and operate the A/C with one compressor. The tech informed me that I should probably not use the system as a heat pump as the computer would try to pull in the second compressor and the unit would not be able to keep up with the heating needs forcing the gas heat to be required to take over. He was simply taking the stress off of the heating needs. By making your number 2 take over as number 1, it will probably not run at all since the number 1 has to be running before the number 2 will start.
Hoffie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2019, 05:38 AM   #13
Winnebago Owner
 
mikf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 191
This my sound like a dumb question, but do you have 20 amp selected at the control panel in your rv? If so it may be shedding the power to compressor 2. when mine is running it draws more than 20 amps.
__________________
Mike S.E. Ohio
mikf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2019, 09:56 AM   #14
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 1,311
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikf View Post
This my sound like a dumb question, but do you have 20 amp selected at the control panel in your rv? If so it may be shedding the power to compressor 2. when mine is running it draws more than 20 amps.
Not a dumb question but, nope, 30A is selected. Plus, I have the same issue on generator power. My next step is going to be switching the wiring around between #1 and #2.
__________________
Bob C
2002 Itasca Suncruiser 35U
W20 Chassis
BobC is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
compressor


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Basement air compressor no go RVMJR52 Heating, Cooling and Appliances 14 06-11-2019 08:56 AM
Basement air compressor wont stop! AndyMcG General Maintenance and Repair 3 07-05-2018 01:56 PM
Basement Air - New Compressor is Installed ! Bug512 General Maintenance and Repair 16 08-08-2014 01:12 PM
Basement air #2 compressor won't start vacuumbulb General Maintenance and Repair 7 09-07-2012 08:29 AM
Winnebago Basement Air - Generator - Compressor Question on Amps??? winnie32v Electrical | Charging, Solar and Electronics 16 09-04-2012 07:33 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Winnebago Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:10 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.