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Old 06-20-2010, 03:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KIX View Post
mrschwarz said: "When the temperature outside was 93 U was able to keep it at 76-78 inside. That's less than a 20 differential."

The 20* differential referred to is the difference between the supply ducts and the return air. It's not necessarily the difference between the inside and outside temps. Check the temps of the air coming out of the roof supply registers close to the A/C. Then check the temp of the air going into the air filter. The difference should be in the 20* range.

That was my point. I should have been more clear, sorry. The difference between the return and outlet should be 20 or more. I hope that the return air is cooler than outside air!

If that's the case, then the difference between the return air and outlet is even less.
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Old 06-24-2010, 09:53 AM   #16
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Dont give up

I read many of the post here after searching for problems with the basement A/C units. I too am having cooling problems. 96 outside 83 inside. Yeah the areas behind the cabinets are hot and probably should have some insulation. But like others I checked the dusts, check the compressors and fans operation (speed, current draw) , etc. Everything was OK. I called the local RPV authorized service and talked with him. He said that the unit was basically too small for the coach size. Also (my coach is 2010 Itasca Ellipse 5 months old) RPV is no longer making the A/C model I have.

ANYWAY...I had him come out and check out the unit for my peace of mind. He found the #2 compressor had no freon charge at all. In the shop now for resolution. Bottom line. Keep looking for the reason it wont cool.
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:52 AM   #17
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Phil, can you let us know how the shop serviced the Freon? Thanks.

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Old 07-02-2010, 08:22 PM   #18
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Let me apologize first because this will be a little long, but, it is about the basement air!

My name is Earl and Im brand new to RVing. I didnt do quite enough research before purchasing a 2005 Itasca Meridian 39K from LazyDays RV in Seffner Florida or I might not have purchased this coach. That said I like everything else about the coach at a price I think was a fair. The coach has 31,159 miles with 740 hours on the gen and most of the options that were available that year.

It all started in April when I purchased the RV. Yes, 4 months ago. If LazyDays hadnt had to order and paint a part for the RV I might not have known I had a cooling problem before the 30 warranty they have ran out. This delay caused me to have to wait til after the 21st of May to do the predilievery inspect. The temperature that day was in the low 90s and during the inspection time the temp in the RV went from 75* when we first entered the unit to 80* in about 3 hours. I called the delivery tech and they said they would check out the unit the next day. Late the next day they called and said all checked out in spec. I came in the next day and the same thing, got hot as the day went on. I did notice that the air flow was very low out of all the vents. I told them I would not except the coach until the system worked like I thought it should and that I had to go to work and would not be back for eighteen days. (Oh, did I forget to mention that work takes me out of town for 18 days at a time.)

Late June now and when I go to check out the coach at 2 in the afternoon the coach is cool (74*) with the night shades down, front shades drawn. The first thing I noticed was that the air flow was what I consider very strong coming from the vents through out the coach. I asked the Rep what they had found and repaired and he said nothing! Now I know this is a fib but I let it go. The coach did warm to 75* about 90 minutes later on a 99* and 90 plus RH day outside until they came out to remove the convection/microwave (it only runs 59 seconds and shuts off in both modes) and were in and out 7 times. In that time the coach warmed up to 80*. The coach stayed at 80* till about 30 minutes before sunset(about two and a half hours) by which time it had cooled 1* TO 79*. I took walk for about an hour and a half and when I returned the coach was cooled to 73* and the air was off.

Now you know my short history with the Meridian, so now what did I find that they did to improve the air flow what I consider dramatically. Its actually a simple fix on their part. The factory filter is a 12x 12. LazyDays removed the filter mount box then extended the opening in the floor back an additional 6 and made the return air opening 12x 18 and built a filter mount for a 14x 20 filter. I could not see any cut metal edge (air conditioner case) so I suspect that the factory opening on the air conditioner may have already been this large. If your interested in trying this modification I suggest you take a mirror and look through the air return opening and see how the opening of the air conditioner case is cut. The floor on my unit is plywood in this area.

All I can tell you is the air flow in my coach is much better then when I first got in the coach. One side note, this means I need to keep a much closer watch on the air duct going up the back of the coach for splitting from the increased air flow.

The question now is, is this going to cure the cooling problem on the Winnies? Probably not, butIm sure its going to make the situation better.

I have to say LazyDays so far has done right by me. Be it maybe a little slow and begrudgingly but right.


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Old 07-03-2010, 05:26 PM   #19
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Basement air and freon

Thudman, Sorry for the length of time to post the reply but things got complicated. What we all thought was a feon problem was actually a failed valve (I think transfer) stuck open that to external tests looked like a system with no freon. Basically the freon wasnt doing anything, justed being pumped in a circle. Anyway that was discovered after the motorhome got to the service bay. I had used Blue Moon Mobile RV in Carollton TX. Blue Moon talked with RPV and RPV shipped a brand new whole unit in. Got it in 5 days. Blue Moon installed the new unit and so far things are OK. I am trying to see who is going to actually pay for the labor, Winnebago, RPV, or me? Another story. Anyway the "tests" I did like fans, amp draw, etc all showed system working OK. It took a good professional to find the issue.
Keep looking for the basement air problems. There seem to be quite a few different problems they everyone has report.
Good luck Thudman...from PhantomMan Phil.
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Old 07-03-2010, 05:54 PM   #20
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Hello dc8cappie,

About 3 weeks ago, I pulled the central air unit for cleaning. It was, to say the least, filthy! It took my son and me about two hours with stiff bristle brushes and compressed air from the engine to finally get all the dust out of the unit. Based on the air flow now, compared to 4 years and 6 years ago, Id say that the lint buildup on the evaporator occurred when the coach was newer. I say this because air flow was low even after I modified the intake for the 20 X 20 X 4 filters. Winne uses a molded plastic return duct on this model so no increase in floor area could be done. All I had to do was cut, move, and then re-secure the filter bracket on the floor.



Air flow now with the filter and the cleaning is amazing, even on low. My guess is that around to 5/8 of the area of the evaporator was blocked with about 1/8 of lint that had formed a mat restriction the air flow to or less of the air flow now.

No more problems with cooling and electricity consumption has been reduced by 20%. Now I get to find out how often my 4 year old filter will continue to last.

If you still have reduced efficiency on your coach, you may want to consider pulling the unit for cleaning. Not so easy but doable.
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Old 07-06-2010, 07:13 PM   #21
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After reading this entire thread coupled with my experience of 7 years with this system it would seem that generally the system works as advertised when all of the "problems" are addressed. Plugged drains and clogged filters are not the norm on properly functioning systems.
Instead of jumping up and down and trashing the equipment take some time to investigate. Too many owners treat this system the way they do their house system - benign neglect- and expect it to function as advertised. If the flow is low, there has to be a reason. If there is no water draining from the system, there has to be a reason. Etc, etc.... If you listen to the system when it starts up you can tell if the second compressor starts and you can see the startup on the panel (30 amp).
Like many other writers I have had no problems with two coaches over seven years. As others have done we have traveled in many climates. In Carson City last summer in 105 degree heat the system ran all day but it kept us cool. We have had the same experience in the midwest where it is not as hot but we have that humidiy thing. And I agree, it is better to get ahead of the heat. Starting the system at 1pm is not going to be as good as starting at 8am. Window awnings are better than tinted windows but having both is great. Maybe a coach does need a mod in the air return but make sure everything is working properly before reaching for the saber saw.
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Old 07-07-2010, 08:23 PM   #22
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Pleated filter too restrictive?

I replaced the filter in our coach shortly after buying it. We are the second owners. I installed a pleated filter thinking that it would be better. Now I wonder if I should go back to the spun fiberglass type filter which would allow a faster air flow? Would the cheap filter allow more air movement and keep the coach a little cooler without doing damage to the unit? Any thoughts on this? Joe
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Old 07-07-2010, 08:28 PM   #23
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Quote:
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I replaced the filter in our coach shortly after buying it. We are the second owners. I installed a pleated filter thinking that it would be better. Now I wonder if I should go back to the spun fiberglass type filter which would allow a faster air flow? Would the cheap filter allow more air movement and keep the coach a little cooler without doing damage to the unit? Any thoughts on this? Joe
I have always used a hydrastatic filter. My filter makes a pleated filter look like a sieve.
A spun f-glass filter will stop most debris from getting into the condenser coil. You should be checking the coils every couple of years anyway to clean them.
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Old 07-07-2010, 09:15 PM   #24
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I had the unit cleaned and checked and it was up to specs. I still wonder if an increased air flow with a less restrictive filter would keep the coach a little cooler in 100+ weather. I think that I'll give it a try on the next time out. Joe
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Old 07-08-2010, 04:44 AM   #25
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Is there any way to check or clean the evaporator without removing the unit?
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Old 07-08-2010, 07:21 AM   #26
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I am taking mine in to Lodgemobile this morning to have that done, plus checked out,I dont think there is any other way to do it. I will report back on my findings.
Not looking foreward to the morning freeway traffic though.
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Old 07-08-2010, 09:23 AM   #27
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Quote:
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Is there any way to check or clean the evaporator without removing the unit?
If you have orangutan arms you might be able to reach one side of the evap coil through the return air plennum. But, it's only one side and it's just not practical. And that is the reason to use an efficient filter........that way it doesn't get clogged with debris to start with
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Old 07-08-2010, 11:24 AM   #28
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Don't restrict air flow...

This is information gleaned from another forum. It is not my idea, although it makes sense to me:

"I have talked MANY times to the manufacturer (who makes our air conditioners), and they specifically told me to use the CHEAPEST fiberglass spun filter you can find for the inside air return, and you should be able to "see your hand through the filter". In other words....this shouldn't be one of those pleated fancy ones. Change the filter out often. The key is to get LOTS of air flow out of the vents. Keep your fan selection on HIGH MANUAL (on all the time) and when the condenser clicks off, the fan still runs." Joe

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