Wtr Htr Drain Plug

[AFChap]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Most of us here have been replacing these nylon plugs with these brass </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I guess we could do a poll to find out how many "most of us" is. You've already seen in this discussion that "many of us" continue to use the original nylon plugs...

[Pubtym]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by AFChap:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Most of us here have been replacing these nylon plugs with these brass </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I guess we could do a poll to find out how many "most of us" is. You've already seen in this discussion that "many of us" continue to use the original nylon plugs... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Agree. Poll time Paul..

[Jeeperrmartin]

I used the nylon plugs. At GNR they even gave them away at Atwood's booth one year.

[BBBEEBOP]

I still use nylon, haven't broke one yet.

[FDchief]

Ok, I will add my two bits. For all of you that are afraid of the brass plugs, I understand your position, but may I suggest that you may want to look at replacing your brass TP (temperature / Pressure) pop off valve with a plastic one while your at it!

[AFChap]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">may want to look at replacing your brass TP (temperature / Pressure) pop off valve with a plastic one </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I wasn't aware that Atwood designed and sold the WH tank with a plastic pop off valve ...if so, I might consider it. But they DID design and sell it with a nylon drain plug...

[dirko]

Hi Ho: If I were Atwood I may have made the same choice based on cost. The plastic plugs only cost about 2 cents to manufacture, the brass plugs are about 50 cents. Anyway, if the brass plugs were left in for years on end they might be hard to get out. Galvanized plugs would definitely be harder to get out after time. If removed at least once a year the brass plugs seem to work fine.

The best thing to do for OTP valves is not bother them if they don't leak. If they are touched the probability is that they will leak.

Just my two cents worth.

Dirk

[hamguy]

I have pulled the nylon cap from my cold water heater at least 20 times. I wrapped the threads with teflon tape and a re-wrap when necessary.

I tighten it with a pair of needle nose pliers held perpendicular to the threads and make it snug plus 1/2 turn.

Still using the original plug and it works as smooth as can be.

OH, nary a drip.

[Thudman]

hamguy:

Thx for your insight and specific remarks on the tightening process. I think I'm using too much torque (I also use Teflon tape on the nylon plug, but with a socket wrench).

Thudman

[Frank P. Martin]

This is the ninth camping season in my TT and I'm still using the original nylon plug. I always drain the HWT before I store my unit for the winter. To loosen/tighten, I use an adjustable wrench that is similar to a Channel Lock.

[rvcarpenter]

Since I use mu mh mostly in the winter and I like my hot showers after skiing, I drain my HW after every trip so that's about 10 to 15 times a year since 2001 I have had to replace 1 plug and that was my fault, I over tgihtened it.

[Ray,IN]

I have a number of reservations about some methods used in replies, but to each his own.
The Galvanic Series identifies aluminum in the top half (active) in the scale, brass is in the center(neutral). You will note Magnesium is the most active metal in the table; which is why water heaters with a steel tank use it to reduce corrosion to the tank.
FDChief and those using brass plugs are correct. This does not however make anyone else incorrect by using a plastic OEM plug.

[FDchief]

My tongue in cheek humor may have only made me laugh, and sent the wrong message to others. The moral of the story is, do either plastic or brass, both work well. There is no such thing as a plastic pop off valve. Hence the brass, a necessary evil. Even with the Atwood aluminum tank, you should drain your HW heater at least annually for that warm and fuzzy feelin'

[Gary CA]

I copied another forum members model and I built this drain/flush system for under $10.
The elbow after the valve folds up and out of the way. If you haven't flushed your heater lately drain it into a clean bucket and you'll be amazed what flushes out.

[FDchief]

Gary, thanks for the photos. Looks like a simple way to handle the flushing issue. What type of PVC is that?

[Thudman]

Further to my drain plug activities: when I popped the head of the drain plug off, it was close to Happy Hour, so normal places of biz were closed. (Unable to get parts; but able to partake of HH)). I reasoned: I can turn the WH Bypass Valve to Bypass, have water (at least cold) and not have water leak out of the WH drain (WH switch Off). Not so... water leaked out of the drain, so I had to shut off the source of the water; thus no water to the house. Does this mean my Bypass valve is bad?

Thudman

[Wizard]

Very nice job, I'm thinking that's Sch80 PVC. I'm going to pick up some next trip to town. Thanks for the picture. Very professional looking.

[C Zimm]

Gary CA: Great job! Did you route the relief valve overboard as well?

[MrTransistor]

Hi Thudman,

No, the bypass valve is not a duel valve that accomplishes a true bypass. It only prevents cold water from entering the WH so it can be drained. Make sure the power is turned off to the WH when it's drained.

[Thudman]

Thanks, Mark. But in the Bypass position with water source On, why did water come out of the WH drain plug (when the WH had already emptied)?

Thudman