Winterizing vs Not?

UncleGoat · 12-07-2018, 07:29 AM

Hello Winnie Onwers,

The wife and I bought a Winnie View in June, and are thinking about taking this puppy cross country during December and January. We realize this will be a cold trip, and will therefore are not worried about keeping any water tanks (fresh, grey, black) full. What I'm curious about is the following.

The dealership from which we purchased our Winnie offers a winterization service in which they fill all fresh water lines and tanks with antifreeze (similar to what might be used in a radiator, I think?). Is that accurate? But the sound of that makes me cringe. I feel like that would forever taint my fresh water system?

I also don't understand how draining that would be a responsible, environmentally sound thing to do, unless the dealership has a disposal system in which we could drain the system in the Spring. But that doesn't make me feel better about the "contamination" aspect.

So, if I have drained all water tanks / systems, why do I need to use the antifreeze method? I mean, if there's nothing to freeze, then why use the antifreeze method?

If we're planning on taking a long winter trip, do we need to winterize the Winnie? Again, just leaving things empty and taking the occasional shower at a hotel or friend's house is fine with us, so we aren't too worried about the fresh water system in the RV.

Any advice or info from you guys would be much appreciated.

Meridian42e · 12-07-2018, 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UncleGoat

Hello Winnie Onwers,

The dealership from which we purchased our Winnie offers a winterization service in which they fill all fresh water lines and tanks with antifreeze (similar to what might be used in a radiator, I think?). Is that accurate? But the sound of that makes me cringe. I feel like that would forever taint my fresh water system?

No-no-no-no - the antifreeze used in your potable (drinkable) water system is NOT the same antifreeze used in your engine. In general terms, Automotive antifreeze is made from toxic and will kill you (ethylene glycol).

RV antifreeze (propylene glycol) is clearly marked and is safe for potable water systems. It is typically pink, although some dealers make their own that is colorless.

Antifreeze is used as an alternative to blowing out the system with low pressure compressed air, but gravity draining is generally not feasible in modern motorhomes because of the way the water lines are run. Even after draining there are low points that will hold water.

Both winterizing with antifreeze or blowing out with compressed air are a little complicated and require a skill set or you may freeze and break parts anyway, so learn from someone who knows and can show you. Repairs are expensive.

If you are continuously in the motorhome running heat in cold weather, you won't need to winterize it. It only needs winterized if you are going to let it freeze.

Teamfoxy · 12-07-2018, 07:57 AM

1) The anti-freeze normally used is non-toxic.
2) It is not necessary to fill the entire tank with antifreeze. A little water freezing in a large tank is not going to hurt anything. The concern is water freezing in a confined space, such as the hoses, expanding and bursting them. Simply draining them will still leave some water trapped in parts of the hoses. You drain the system and then run enough anti-freeze through to fill the lines so that any remaining water is flushed out.
3) There is some danger of bacteria growing in the water system, so even if you do not "winterize" the system, you still need to flush and disinfect the tanks before you put the RV in service after prolonged storage.

If you are using the RV over the winter, the need for "winterizing" will depend on how cold it will be where you are traveling and how warm you keep the RV and storage areas. Also the RV layout as far as where the tanks are located and where the plumbing runs.

Morich · 12-07-2018, 09:58 AM

Lots of decisions and much will depends on each trip and each person, so maybe some basic thoughts to help?
As stated the pink is okay for not killing you, however it may make you wish you had not tasted it! Personal choices on taste enter this part but I do NOT like the taste left in the fresh water tank so I do a routine bleach soak and clean before I make any tea from that tank!
So why do I add the pink? There will rarely be a tank which is totally drained as the fittings, etc. are often not in the lowest point of the tank and that may leave water in the tank. The cost of letting it freeze is so great that I am willing to do the trek of fighting the taste. Also a major factor is the drain system. Know where and what the traps on drains are? Those are designed to keep water in them and that is what keeps the odors and sewer gas out of the RV. One could try to drain them of water but that lets the sewage gas come out of the holding tanks and most don't want that, so we leave the water but add the pink to keep it from freezing and breaking the traps. Notice the stool has water standing in it? That is the seal for keeping sewage smell out and I want to keep liquid there, so add pink!
I drain the tanks, blow out the lines and then run enough pink through the lines to assure they are safe and that process adds pink to the traps. I deal with the resulting bad taste because I certainly do not want to repair any part of it.

UncleGoat · 12-07-2018, 12:49 PM

Thank you so much for the help. I will get the winterizing done. Ultimately, we're not sure when we're leaving (or if) so, all the great info and advice has compelled me to get it done. Thanks again.

signet63 · 12-07-2018, 02:09 PM

I live in Las Vegas Nv. It will get below freezing here on the rare occasion, but not long enough for me to worry. I do not winterize because I use my RV more in the winter than summer. I just had some plumbing repaired. I have an accumulator that helps with water pressure. The connector at the bottom was leaking. I am not good with plumbing so I hired a mobile mechanic to repair this. We decided to replace all the plumbing in that compartment because it was all old and going to start leaking soon. When he replaced the plumbing he removed my winterizing kit and water heater bypass valve. I am ok with this as I do not winterize.

I do have heat in my basement, and have never had a problem camping when it is below freezing outside.

Thanks,

Bill

akeagle · 12-08-2018, 01:05 AM

Consider taking a southern route so there is little chance of encountering freezing weather???

Sue46 · 12-08-2018, 04:39 AM

Winterizing is something that most people do themselves. You can buy the pink stuff at Walmart. You simply drain all the tanks(including hot water) and lines, turn on the bypass for the hot water tank and run you winterizing system(this all should be documented in your manuals. Pour some extra pink stuff into the traps and you are done. Your winterizing system will put the pink stuff in all the lines an the water pump(critical).

Plenty of You Tube videos and documentation online. Takes only a gal or 2 of pink stuff.

Another method is to take a compressor and blow out al the lines, then put in the pinks stuff.

This is a DIY project, no need for a dealer an the $$.

jpspaz · 12-12-2018, 06:59 PM

Living in the northeast, there are times when I take a trip when it’s beyond the normal season. I don’t like to winterize twice in a year so in the past when I’ve traveled late in the year I’ll just keep an eye on the overnight temps. If it gets down below 28 I will run an electric heater on low overnight (like 50 deg). Then I don’t have to worry about anything freezing. I’ll take my trip and winterize when I get back home.

JoeC · 12-12-2018, 08:00 PM

Are you absolutely sure your water lines and hot water tank are completely empty? It could get quite expensive repairing these if they freeze and rupture, which usually follows the freezing.

rv kayakers · 12-12-2018, 08:37 PM

Last year i winterized using the blow out method. In the spring the shower faucet was leaking and had to be replaced. Apparently some water stayed inside. This year i used antifreeze.....

PJTroyer · 12-13-2018, 09:58 AM

I also bought a new View this fall. I am very handy and read all instructi0ons to winterize. I chose to not do it myself but to have a pro do it. One reason was the location of the valves under the closet and another is the on-demand water heater. I am glad I did not risk the possibility of not having RV antifreeze in all line nooks and crannies.

We left Northern Illinois when the temp was in th teens in Nov. Went to Near New Orleans then west to Tucson. Every night was below freezing!!

Watch your gross vehicle weight with extra winter clothing/blankets, drinking water containers but also ice/sleet/snow build up under the chassis.

Quote:

Originally Posted by UncleGoat

Hello Winnie Onwers,

The wife and I bought a Winnie View in June, and are thinking about taking this puppy cross country during December and January. We realize this will be a cold trip, and will therefore are not worried about keeping any water tanks (fresh, grey, black) full. What I'm curious about is the following.

The dealership from which we purchased our Winnie offers a winterization service in which they fill all fresh water lines and tanks with antifreeze (similar to what might be used in a radiator, I think?). Is that accurate? But the sound of that makes me cringe. I feel like that would forever taint my fresh water system?

I also don't understand how draining that would be a responsible, environmentally sound thing to do, unless the dealership has a disposal system in which we could drain the system in the Spring. But that doesn't make me feel better about the "contamination" aspect.

So, if I have drained all water tanks / systems, why do I need to use the antifreeze method? I mean, if there's nothing to freeze, then why use the antifreeze method?

If we're planning on taking a long winter trip, do we need to winterize the Winnie? Again, just leaving things empty and taking the occasional shower at a hotel or friend's house is fine with us, so we aren't too worried about the fresh water system in the RV.

Any advice or info from you guys would be much appreciated.

Leevormelker · 12-13-2018, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Meridian42e

No-no-no-no - the antifreeze used in your potable (drinkable) water system is NOT the same antifreeze used in your engine. In general terms, Automotive antifreeze is made from toxic and will kill you (ethylene glycol).

RV antifreeze (propylene glycol) is clearly marked and is safe for potable water systems. It is typically pink, although some dealers make their own that is colorless.

Antifreeze is used as an alternative to blowing out the system with low pressure compressed air, but gravity draining is generally not feasible in modern motorhomes because of the way the water lines are run. Even after draining there are low points that will hold water.

Both winterizing with antifreeze or blowing out with compressed air are a little complicated and require a skill set or you may freeze and break parts anyway, so learn from someone who knows and can show you. Repairs are expensive.

If you are continuously in the motorhome running heat in cold weather, you won't need to winterize it. It only needs winterized if you are going to let it freeze.

Be careful here. Just because you are traveling in your RV does NOT mean your tanks and lines won't freeze. The automotive heaters generally heat the interior of the RV not the water cabinet or basement areas. You DO need to winterize your tanks and lines or you will be fixing expensive lines and water heater next spring. Regards. Lee (engineer)

Flagstick · 12-13-2018, 02:29 PM

If I was taking an RV across country in the winter I would add antifreeze to the 1/2 full fresh water tank and run each facet until it turns pink. This allows you to use the toilet and sinks, but don't drink it. Carry drinking water. Be sure and run hot water also to get the heater filled. And only use the southern route, don't even think about the North in an RV.

imnprsd · 12-16-2018, 11:47 PM

I prefer to use the "Pink" RV stuff you get at at Walmart. And my 40' RV takes 2 gallons to do a complete job. (The first time you winterize I recommend you buy 3 gallons.) It's easy, fast, and I know it's done right... when I open up my faucets and see the pink stuff come out.

Here are some other comments:

My RV has a "winterization siphon hose" in the dump compartment. This is the key. If you rig does not have one of these you might consider adding a "tee" on the suction side of the pump. Then you can can completely winterize your coach in 10-15 minutes to do the main faucets, but there are a few extra things you need to think about too. Like these things:

* The RV antifreeze should not be added to your hot water tank. That's why you have a by-pass valve... for 2 reasons: One, the RV anti-freeze doesn't like aluminum very much (although it's not that bad either), because your HW tank is made out of Al. And two, if you don't shut off (bi-pass) your HW tank, then your pump will try to fill it with the pink stuff; and will be going back to the store to buy more.

* As you winterize your faucets, you want to conserve your pink RV antifreeze... so just let enough pink out of the faucets to fill the water trap under the sink. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT as traps freeze too. Just don't overdue it.

* Don't forget to check for pink out of your toilet hose too.

* I don't like to put the pink stuff in the ice maker line... so I recommend you just disconnect at the shut-off valve. And if your RV does not have a shut-off valve on your refrigerator ice maker water line, then you might consider adding one. Note: Water gravity feed out of the water line and the siphon action will suck the water out of the ice-maker.

* Disconnect your water filter under the sink (if you have one) and bypass it. Then drain for pink.

* I like to winterize the washer last, because if you do it first you most likely use too much on the washer and will run out of RV antifreeze before you complete the full winterization tasks.

So I suggest you winterize the washer last... and then use all the pink you have left. (Just start the cycle and let if fill the washer until all the pink stuff is gone.) Note: You may or may not see any pink stuff in your washer tub, but you know it got to the pump, which is what you want.

Other suggestion:

* Add 1 cup of chlorine bleach (diluted in a gallon of water) to your 1/2 way full fresh water tank on the last leg home so the bleach slush-es around inside the tank. Then drain the tank when you winterize.

* Throw a bunch of dryer sheet out inside the RV and in the basement. It not only will detour mice it will also leave your coach smelling fresh when you return next season.

* I also like to add a couple tubs of desiccant to the inside of the RV. ...And you might also put some of these desiccant crystals on a plate... over your tiles. WHY? Because when you return next season you may find a bunch of bugs dead next to the plate. Apparently, the moisture attracts bugs and the desiccant kills the bugs (the few (let's hope) that are cohabiting inside).

* I also put a couple Nerf Footballs ($1 at the Dollar Store) between the wiper blades and the windshield to extend the life of the wiper blade. (And at campsites too.)