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Old 12-04-2004, 04:27 PM   #1
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From day 1, my Electric Winterizer System has been a pain in the bud. I'm on my seventh By-Pass Solenoid Valve. My electrical compartment has been flooded four times and I darn near got electricuted trying to disconntectthe power cord from the pedestal which was in 4" of water.

I've had my system apart so many times now, that I can do it my sleep. The company that make these solenoid valves, has been assembling the unit with a stamped stainless steel washers that cut the upper diaphram/seal and then causes a flood. When this happens, we can't use the water either from shore or from the tank and there is no way to buy-pass it.

Sometimes these electrical goodies turn out to be baddies.

If you experience anti-freeze in your water heater of a flooded electrical bay and you have one of these electrical winterizer system, good luck. The fun just begun.

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Old 12-04-2004, 04:27 PM   #2
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From day 1, my Electric Winterizer System has been a pain in the bud. I'm on my seventh By-Pass Solenoid Valve. My electrical compartment has been flooded four times and I darn near got electricuted trying to disconntectthe power cord from the pedestal which was in 4" of water.

I've had my system apart so many times now, that I can do it my sleep. The company that make these solenoid valves, has been assembling the unit with a stamped stainless steel washers that cut the upper diaphram/seal and then causes a flood. When this happens, we can't use the water either from shore or from the tank and there is no way to buy-pass it.

Sometimes these electrical goodies turn out to be baddies.

If you experience anti-freeze in your water heater of a flooded electrical bay and you have one of these electrical winterizer system, good luck. The fun just begun.

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Old 12-04-2004, 07:32 PM   #3
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We have the Swan Automatic System but we winterize by draining the system, handling the unusual stuff; water purifier, ice maker, washer dryer, hot water heater and then we blow out the pipes per the manual. Put the pink stuff in traps only.

Question is: The Swan Winterizing Manual mentions a two gallon resevoir for the pink stuff - do you know where it's located ?
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Old 12-05-2004, 01:45 AM   #4
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Winnebago bought the system with out the tank and then added a suction hose. It's in the bay where you Fresh Water Hook-up is located. The hose is 3/8" clear poly with a white plactic strainer end cap, that you would insert into a gallon jug of RV anti-toxic anti-freeze.

This system is no longer available, {"per Wayne at Swan, Winnebago was told to stop using the valves, which are manufactured by Spraying Systems, Inc. Swan has lost a lot of money covering the warranty claims on these valves. Spraying Systems stopped warranting the valves to Swan"}

Swan has developed an new system that uses a motorized stainless steel ball valve in a brass body. We have another option too, they have a manual brass ball valve thats in a brass body also.

I haven't even activated the valve and they failed. There are are 2 rubber diaphrams, about the size of a silver dollar, one at the top of the valve body and one at the bottom; for some reason the top diaphram is being cut by the washer used to secure it, which then allows the water to leak out. It's a good thing this is only a 12 volt system, but whats rediculous, is that it's in the same compartment with the incoming 220 electric with the transfer switch and inverter. When this valve leaks, it allows the hot water from the hot water tank to back flow into the compartment under pressure and it steams up all the electrical equipment.

The last two times this happend, it woke me up in the middle of the night. The heat from the hot water in the compartment, which is right under the bed head board, made the bedroom into a steamroom. It got pretty warm in there, just reverse of how heat gets to the basement.

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Old 12-05-2004, 04:24 AM   #5
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Tomcat F15 - Thanks for the response. I knew about the suction hose but was mystified about the reservoir which does not exist.

Our bypass valve has not failed - yet.

We bought the coach used and winterize by blowing out lines, so we haven't even looked at the bypass valve - the previous owner may have gone to a manual valve ???

Guess I should check it out when time/weather allow.

Thanks

BTW - Your posts are always good.
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Old 12-05-2004, 05:00 AM   #6
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According to the Winne tech at the toll free # in Forest City even though the manual says there is one "ITS NOT THERE". "Stick the hose ends into a bucket with antifreeze fluid and turn on the switch"
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Old 12-05-2004, 01:12 PM   #7
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I just had Winnie replace one of my winterizing valves, which has been dripping since we've owned the coach. It was only a slow drip, but it annoyed me, so while I was at Forest City in October, I had them replace it.

Well sit down for this one; the new valve cost $195.00, plus an hour labor to replace it. That sucker isn't cheap. Hope it lasts, cause if it don't, I'm replacing with 2 manual bypass valves next time.
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Old 12-05-2004, 02:54 PM   #8
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Boy Capt. Bill you got soaked good didn't you. I wish I wrote about this sooner, I could have saved you that money.

IF ANY ONE HAS A PROBLEM WITH THESE VALVES, GO TO SWAN AND HAVE THEM EITHER REPLACE IT OR SEND YOU NEW DIAPHRAGMS. IN EITHER CASE IT SHOULDN'T COST YOU ANYTHING, they know they have a problem.

And I think think I found the solution, which I'll discuss with them tomorrow. And it's a simple fix, too.

SWAN Industries, Inc 800-228-7926
[URL=http://www.centormall.com/Swan_ind/]www.swanindustries.com

And as far as coach manufacturer is concerned, they know there's a problem with these valves and they should have covered it. Swan people told me they have been paying for warranty claims, but will be putting an end to that soon.

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Old 12-05-2004, 03:40 PM   #9
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Tomcat F15, thank you for the info on Swan. I may be talking with them soon, as I have the leaking valve, and may send it to them, since it's likely I'll have problems with these valves again.

I was shocked to read about your close encounter with that fire, and am so glad that it was not even worse. Ironically, I was just under the rig this past week, installing a new exhaust elbow, and I looked at the whole system, muffler included, all the way back (forward) to the engine. I had quite a bit of clearance all around that muffler, and am wondering why yours could have been so close the the back of the compartment. Now I gotta go out the and have another look
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Old 12-05-2004, 03:56 PM   #10
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Capt. Bill,

When you take the valve out, you can't use your water at all. The water from shore and from the tank go through the first valve, the second valve is the one that supplies the anti-freeze.

I would call them first before I would take it out. They may just send you another one, or else have them send you the diaphrams. I'll be more then glade to help you with the change. I think the solution to the problem is in the washers they use on top of the diaphrams. These washers are stainless steel and they've been die stamped. This process leaves sharp edges on one side, if the assemblier is informed, the sharp edges should be up. I deburred both sides after I found the washers were cutting the diphram after I tighten the assembly. After deburring the washers, no more cuts. Let me know if I can help.

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Old 12-06-2004, 09:29 AM   #11
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Tomcat,
Here's a link to the parts breakdown of the valve. I guess what your saying is that washer #12 cuts diaphram #11 and causes the leak. Also notice that you can get diaphrams made from a material called viton made by Dupont. I wonder if it would help.
http://www.dultmeier.com/pdfs/ssAA144.pdf
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Old 12-06-2004, 02:44 PM   #12
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3huskies

Say thanks a lot , thats a great drawing, I didn't even think they had the parts detailed.
I do see some differences in the valves. #12 looks more like #14 and it's used at both diaphragms, at least thats the way mine came apart.At least they were consistant. #15 & #21 aren't even supplied in the valves I have.

Thanks again, maybe I can get to the bottom of this problem.

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Old 12-06-2004, 03:04 PM   #13
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Hi Tomcat,
That link was for a 144 valve. This is the 144A valve link.Is this more like yours.
http://www.dultmeier.com/pdfs/ssAA144A.pdf
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Old 12-06-2004, 04:06 PM   #14
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3huskies,

Thanks again, their both real close. I'm going to call the company tomorrow and talk with tech support. The last drawing was a little differnt then the first and some parts aren;t there especiall the stainless steel washers.

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Old 12-07-2004, 06:00 AM   #15
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I've replaced three of these valves in my 03
Horizon. Swan stood behind the last one, #4, but when it came I threw it on the shelf, went to
the hardware store and bought a manual valve with no problems since. Got tired of seeing it in my sleep, and running out of water on the road and when dry docked, and getting everything soaked. Swan informed me that
they now have a new valve but due to wiring differences it won't reto fit the older units.
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Old 12-07-2004, 03:23 PM   #16
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR> Capt. Bill,

When you take the valve out, you can't use your water at all. The water from shore and from the tank go through the first valve, the second valve is the one that supplies the anti-freeze.

I would call them first before I would take it out. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


Tomcat, when I was in Forest City in October, I had Winnebago replace the leaking valve ($195 + labor), but I kept the old one. That's what I meant when I said I still have the leaking valve.

I may just see if Swan will repair/replace it for me. Then I'll have a backup for the next time
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Old 12-08-2004, 04:18 AM   #17
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Capt. Bill,

Thats great, you bought it, I'm glad you kept it. Now, replacing it is another story, but they will send you new diaphragms at no charge. Just talk to Wayne, when you call, he's ready for your calls.

As handy as you are, you shouldn't have any problem replacing the diaphragms, just do yourself a favor first, polish the edge of the stainless steel washers on both sides with emery cloth before you reassemble the valve. These washers are die stamped and the trailing edge is as sharp as a razor. If that edge is put face down on the diaphragm, it will cut it as you re-assemble the valve, then fracture when the water supply is put on line. If you have problems or need assistance, just write me.

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Old 12-08-2004, 10:48 AM   #18
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Good thread. Without the AF tank that the system is suppose to come with and with the valve problems, it's worse than useless, IMO. The next valve we have go out will see me installing manual valves.
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Old 12-08-2004, 12:12 PM   #19
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I don't know about the newer systems but my '98 Vectra has the Swan auto winterizer and it does have the 2 gallon tank with it. I lift up a trap door in the bottom of the closet and pour the RV antifreeze in. Push two buttons and it's done.
Glen in SC
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Old 12-08-2004, 04:39 PM   #20
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jeb,

I really think it's all in those stainless steel washers that have a sharp razor edge on one side. Call Swan and have them send you a couple sets of diaphragms ao you can repair the valve yourself. It's not that hard.

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