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Old 07-24-2006, 03:15 AM   #1
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We've been playing the "scald/freeze shower dance" since we've owned our Journey. I've read all of the posts regarding this problem and I hate (nor want) to shell out close to $100 for something Winne should've (but finally) corrected. I waited too long to research the problem, then my warrantee ended. However, I thought I stumbled across a post where someone said he "adjusted" the OEM valve internally and it helped with the "scald/freeze" issues. Has anyone seen or tried it? (I've been trying to search for the post, but it may have been part of another thread so I've had no luck finding it.)
Thanks,
Tagalong
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Old 07-24-2006, 03:15 AM   #2
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We've been playing the "scald/freeze shower dance" since we've owned our Journey. I've read all of the posts regarding this problem and I hate (nor want) to shell out close to $100 for something Winne should've (but finally) corrected. I waited too long to research the problem, then my warrantee ended. However, I thought I stumbled across a post where someone said he "adjusted" the OEM valve internally and it helped with the "scald/freeze" issues. Has anyone seen or tried it? (I've been trying to search for the post, but it may have been part of another thread so I've had no luck finding it.)
Thanks,
Tagalong
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Old 07-24-2006, 03:49 AM   #3
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On our 2001 Adventurer I took the valve apart many times trying to stop a drip. There are no possible adjustments to that one. The one on our Suncruiser is great, maintains the set temp all the time. I think your only choice is to replace.
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Old 07-24-2006, 04:43 AM   #4
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I just finished replacing the shower valve in our 2001 Adventurer to avoid the continuing scald/freeze dance.

I used a Moen chrome lever handle shower valve model #L82680. It's for a shower only since it doesn't have the bottom tap for a tub spout.

It cost $79.00 at the local Home Depot, and only comes in the chrome finish. Unlike the original there is no volume control, only on/off and temperature control. We have a hand held shower with on/off and volume control control so there was no need to get the more expensive volume control valve.

It took about an hour to install and was almost a direct replacement. The only thing I had to change was to move 1 screw that holds the valve to the wall. The original valve had 2 self tapping screws at the bottom holding it to a plate in the wall. The new valve has 1 screw on the top and another on the bottom. The bottom screw is in the same place as the original so I just used a portable drill with a screw driver attachment and moved the second screw to the top.

The new valve has almost 360* of adjustment as opposed to the less than 180* of the original.

If you do a replacement a word for the wise. Wrap a few turns of electrical tape around each tube a few inches below the nut that attaches the tube to the plastic fitting. I didn't and 1 nut slid down the tube. Luckily I could remove an air return vent on the other side of the wall to reach the tube and slide the nut back up to where it belongs. If you aren't lucky enough to have a vent on the other side it could be a long and frustrating fishing trip trying to retrieve the nut.
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Old 07-24-2006, 04:49 PM   #5
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Thanks CousinEd and Hikerdogs,
My wife and I can manage the sensitivity of the shower control so we'll just go along as we are. It's just a concern when we invite guests along with us.
It's such a "kick in the butt" to think you have to shell out money to correct something that shouldn't need to be replaced on something that costs so much to begin with.
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Old 07-24-2006, 07:03 PM   #6
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what does the scald/freeze dance mean? Does your water temp change without even touching the control or is it just impossible to reach a good temp? Our 2004 Meridian is very hard to reach a comfortable temp, if its too hot and you turn the temp down some it may get too cold after running for 20-30 seconds. Then when its turned up toward hot a little it may get hotter than is wanted in 20-30 seconds. After playing back and forth several times we can finally get a good temp and it will stay there until the facet is turned off. All this is fine when hooked up to full utilities but if we're boondocking it uses lots of water and fills the gray tank. And the salesman really played this new type facet up as a great thing Winnebago came up with. What a laugh. But I've never heard of any kind of adjustment on it.
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Old 07-25-2006, 01:40 AM   #7
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Tagalong, Have you talked to Winnie Customer Service about this? Give them a call and tell them it is dangerous as you could be scalded.
You might be surprised. Good Miles
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Old 07-25-2006, 08:09 AM   #8
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Wagonmaster2: Our version of the scald/freeze dance is that it was difficult at best to adjust the water temperature.

There's about 6' of tube inside the wall between the valve and the shower outlet on the wall, and another 6' of hose for the hand held shower.

The original valve doesn't have much range of movement so even a very small adjustment affects water temperature. With all the hose between the valve and the shower head the result of the adjustment is delayed. By the time you feel the difference in temp you've probably gone too far and will soon either freeze or get scalded out.

It took longer to get a comfortable temperature than it did to shower once it was adjusted. Although it can be done we found ourselves using far more water than necessary.

It probably doesn't make sense to change out the valve if you always have full hookups. In our case we like to visit the state and national parks which have minimal hookups. We found ourselves having to unhook and go to the dump stations far more often than we liked just because the shower was using so much water.
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Old 07-25-2006, 09:29 AM   #9
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I stand to the side and set the water temperature. It's really sensitive and it takes a little while to get the temperature just right. Once I get it set I don't touch it. I turn the water on and off at the shower head till I'm finished with the shower. I've thought about marking the valves. Another option appears to be a change out of the controls.
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Old 07-25-2006, 05:03 PM   #10
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by JD Allen: It's really sensitive and it takes a little while to get the temperature just right. Once I get it set I don't touch it. I turn the water on and off at the shower head till I'm finished with the shower.QUOTE] when I do that, then turn it back on, the water is ice cold for a few seconds, seems like minutes, then it returns to a warmer tempature. It just wastes lots of water doing this.
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Old 07-26-2006, 03:17 AM   #11
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Thanks for the additional posts everyone. You're all right on about the waste of water to adjust the temp, but that's just part of waiting for the hot water to reach the valve and the setting of the valve. However, the other (more dangerous) concern is how sensitive the valve is. Even a slight bump to the valve from the hose or your body causes a drastic increase or decrease in water temp. (Hence my "joke" reference to the "scald/burn dance." Once the valve is properly adjusted there's no problem and we can enjoy a good shower.
Inchn2go I'll give Winne another call to see if they'll do anything about it.
Thanks again,
Tagalong
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Old 07-26-2006, 04:23 AM   #12
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Heres a cheap fix. When you are hooked up to city water run the water pump at the same time you are in the shower. When I do this it totally eliminates the problem and the pressure is similar to house pressure. According to a Winnie tech there is no problem running the pump at the same time. Every few days I top off the fresh water tank.
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Old 07-26-2006, 10:34 AM   #13
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Take the knob off the shower valve. the little brass joys stick that is left is easier to control than the factory knob. put it back on for looks if you like.
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Old 07-27-2006, 04:07 AM   #14
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Replaced the shower valve on our 36M 2003 Itasca Sunrise. We could not adjust the original valve with out problems. 36M has the corner shower and had to be replaced through the hole cut out. Installed Moen "Chateau" # 2700 "valve only" received credit for the chrome Escutcheon Plate, Stop Tube and Screws. Ordered Bright Brass Plate, Stop Tube and Screws as replacement parts through local plumbing supply. Total cost after credits $133.05. The Bright Brass looks good with the existing brass in the bathroom. The Moen Valve body was deeper than the old one however the overall projection of the control knob is about the same or less than the original one. Our unit came with the hand held showerhead and optional shower seat. Did not change the showerhead. Fitting and elbows were $15.92 and the plumbing supply charged $15.00 labor to solder fittings to the new valve. It took about 25 min. to remove the old one and about a 1 hours to install new valve. It works great! A Adjustable Basin Wrench helped alot.

This Moen valve allows you to adjust the volume of water, you pull the knob out for on and off and you can have very low volume or a full blast of water. "9 O'clock Hot 12 O'clock Warm and 3 O'clock Cold. I belive this model is a discontinued valve but can be ordered as replacement parts.
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Old 07-27-2006, 10:04 AM   #15
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We also have been doing the "scald/freeze" dance in our '04 Itasca Meridian. The dealer replaced the control valve after the first trip, but nothing has changed. I realize there is a 5-second delay before the water reaches the spray nozzle, but setting the temperature is really difficult. There is no shut-off on the shower head, only a masage/spray setting.
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Old 07-31-2006, 01:50 PM   #16
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Being that the issue is not getting scalded perhaps the waterheater itself could be set to not get that hot. That way at full on the temp would not scald. I don't know if this is possible but it would surely be a cure if it was.
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Old 08-01-2006, 03:14 AM   #17
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Catpowered,
Solve your problem by going to the hardware store and purchasing a valve that has a "push on push off". The valve is inexpensive and very easy to install in the line going to the shower head. I had the problem and others here pointed out the fix I have suggested. It works!
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