Water not mixing properly - Page 2

PJStough · 06-25-2016, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dunkonu23

I looked under and behind the water heater, no joy going in from the wheel well or behind the water heater. I'm going to check out the plumbing diagram to see where the check valve is located. If nothing comes from that, I'll check with the manufacturer of the water heater.

Scott

On my 38-J model, I have to put out the drivers side slide, and once it is out, I can access the water heater through a panel that is covered up by the slide out when it is in.

dunkonu23 · 06-25-2016, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PJStough

On my 38-J model, I have to put out the drivers side slide, and once it is out, I can access the water heater through a panel that is covered up by the slide out when it is in.

Unfortunately, right now I'm camping (boondocking) so the slide is out, but we have a different configuration. I went into the compartment just behind the water heater and found the outlet and inlets. There is something like the check valve posted earlier in line with the inlet and something else on the outlet. The Atwood site said there is a mixing valve, but I can't see it on my heater and the plumbing diagram/parts list was of little help.

The good news is that earlier, I thought I couldn't get to the back of the water heater, but I can get there.

Scott

dunkonu23 · 06-25-2016, 03:17 PM

Here are a couple of pictures. Note, my water heater has pipes from engine cooling to heat the water as I drive.

This is the connection at the bottom of the water heater.

This is the connection at the top of the water heater--I'm thinking supply.

Scott

ChasA · 06-25-2016, 04:32 PM

Scott,
Cold water goes into the bottom and hot water comes out the top.

dunkonu23 · 06-25-2016, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChasA

Scott,
Cold water goes into the bottom and hot water comes out the top.

I'm a neophyte!

I did some plumbing work in my stick and bricks house for the first time in early winter. It went well after a lot of choice words.

So, I'm guessing the top has the check valve?

Also, I checked the faucet for the outside shower--it has hot and cold valves. I can get the water to mix at a desired temperature and it holds there.

Kind of a rhetorical question, but what are the chances of all three house faucets going bad at the same time? That's based on the outside shower working fine.

Scott

LarrytheBear · 06-25-2016, 05:00 PM

It kind of looks like your check valve is the brass fitting in your top picture.
Mine failed last October but when it did only the hot water was affected. It slowed down to a trickle. But if something is out of place inside it could cause erratic pressure causing the problem you describe.

Here is a picture of mine (PVC) and it is quite different from your set-up. I gutted the inside of the valve because I could not find a replacement at the time. It became a flow through fitting.

Hope this helps.

dunkonu23 · 06-25-2016, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LarrytheBear

It kind of looks like your check valve is the brass fitting in your top picture.
Mine failed last October but when it did only the hot water was affected. It slowed down to a trickle. But if something is out of place inside it could cause erratic pressure causing the problem you describe.

Here is a picture of mine (PVC) and it is quite different from your set-up. I gutted the inside of the valve because I could not find a replacement at the time. It became a flow through fitting.

Hope this helps.

Thank you. I think I have some work to do. I can't believe the amount of thread compound they have on in the picture that shows the top connection. That has me a bit worried.

Scott

mel s · 06-26-2016, 06:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dunkonu23

Thank you. I think I have some work to do. I can't believe the amount of thread compound they have on in the picture that shows the top connection. That has me a bit worried.
Scott

dunkonu23
It's difficult to tell for sure but to me your check valve looks to be the brass piece at the white plastic fitting in this picture.

BTW to much thread compound is better than not enough.

Mel
'96 Safari

dunkonu23 · 06-27-2016, 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mel s

dunkonu23
It's difficult to tell for sure but to me your check valve looks to be the brass piece at the white plastic fitting in this picture.

BTW to much thread compound is better than not enough.

Mel
'96 Safari

That's at the bottom of the water heater, which is the supply side, correct? I'm asking because I'm really confused about the location of the check valve.

Scott

mel s · 06-27-2016, 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dunkonu23

That's at the bottom of the water heater, which is the supply side, correct? I'm asking because I'm really confused about the location of the check valve.
Scott

dunkonu23
My water heater check valve is at the bottom of the water heater, (in the supply line TO the water heater).

However yours might be in the output line FROM the WH, or you might have 2... (1 in the input line TO the WH... and 1 in the output line FROM the WH)... or you may have none at all.

Apparently there are very few "universally excepted" right or wrong ways to do anything by the builders of RVs.

Sorry

Mel
'96 Safari

PJStough · 06-27-2016, 09:33 AM

My Winnebago has check valves on both the input and output.

dunkonu23 · 06-28-2016, 04:53 AM

According to Winnebago, mine has two check valves as well. Kicker is, the guy I spoke to at Winnebago yesterday doesn't think it's the check valves. He thinks all three inside faucets need to be "cleaned". I'm going to go the check valve and the pump route since this didn't happen until I replaced the pump. Pump route because at slow flows water pulses. I'm going to call the manufacturer of the water pump to see if perhaps the pump was not adjusted properly at the factory. It's not a big deal until showering. It did not bother me last weekend, but I was alone. When I'm with my wife it will become a big deal in a hurry and that's a little under a month away.

Scott

dunkonu23 · 06-28-2016, 08:09 AM

Just got off the phone with SHURflo. They said to adjust the shutoff pressure 1/2 turn clockwise. It makes sense because if I run water--either hot or cold--I get pulsing in the flow. So, we'll see how that goes either later today or tomorrow. I'll report back.

Scott

YC1 · 06-28-2016, 08:23 AM

Looking through the entire thread again, it sure seems it is a check valve. If you can find them you might be able to remove them and reconnect the lines. You will get a burst of hot or cold water at first but it should not alternate after a few seconds.

However, getting the pump to run steady should be the same as connecting shoreline water.

dunkonu23 · 06-28-2016, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YC1

Looking through the entire thread again, it sure seems it is a check valve. If you can find them you might be able to remove them and reconnect the lines. You will get a burst of hot or cold water at first but it should not alternate after a few seconds.

However, getting the pump to run steady should be the same as connecting shoreline water.

I'm going to try everything--easiest first.

I think the thing that gets me is I replaced the water pump then this stuff started. I didn't notice it at first because I only checked flow.

I can get to the check valves if needed. If the adjusting the pump doesn't fix it, I will pull both then take them to the local RV shop for replacement--they're also a Winnebago dealer.

Scott

dunkonu23 · 06-28-2016, 06:11 PM

Here's a link that describes the problem in the shower:

How To Adjust The Pressure Switch On A SHURflo Water Pump

The video says to adjust the flow for the shower and adjust it counter clockwise. There is a comment stating to adjust it clockwise. That's what I'm going to do.

Scott

YC1 · 06-29-2016, 10:11 AM

You may be able to get the valves at a Home Depot. Or amazon. But after watching the video it will probably work adjusting it.

dunkonu23 · 06-29-2016, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YC1

You may be able to get the valves at a Home Depot. Or amazon. But after watching the video it will probably work adjusting it.

It did work!

With everything off (no AC or TV or generator), I could hear the pump cycling--the new pump with the silencing kit is really quiet. It took a couple of tries, but I ultimately adjusted the pressure switch until the pump stayed on, then backed off the adjustment until the pump turned off and then another 1/4 turn (total turns from full on to final adjustment about 1/3 turn). Pump turns on shortly after a faucet is turned on and turns off when a faucet is turned off. Works like a champ now--no more cycling. There is a lot more flow which in the shower is a good thing.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.

I now know where the check valves are and more importantly I know I can get to them.

Scott

YC1 · 06-29-2016, 08:55 PM

It never ceases to amaze me that there is always something more to learn on this forum. That is what I loved about my electronics career. Every day there was something new.

dunkonu23 · 06-30-2016, 04:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YC1

It never ceases to amaze me that there is always something more to learn on this forum. That is what I loved about my electronics career. Every day there was something new.

I'm in IT and I have to say, I violated every rule I know about suspecting changes causing a problem. I would have thought the water pump out of the box was adjusted properly. It never dawned on me that it may need tweaking for the water system in my motor home.

I wonder how many other folks have made the same mistake I made by not checking thoroughly first. I wonder if they returned a perfectly good pump when spending five minutes or less adjusting could have fixed things.

Thank you for sticking with me on this YC1!

Scott