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Old 04-16-2007, 03:34 AM   #1
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While outside playing with Jake this weekend, I heard a squeeling sound coming from the hot water heater.
Starting to check it out, suddenly the noise stopped. It was operating on electric, the gas was shut off. I checked the ammeter and it was still heating. Found that my wife was washing her hair and that any time the hot water was running, the heater would squeal.
I read somewher about check valve problems on hot water heaters. Could this be the problem and where could I buy a replacement. I don't remember seeing one in any RV store.
Help would be appreciated.
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Old 04-16-2007, 03:34 AM   #2
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While outside playing with Jake this weekend, I heard a squeeling sound coming from the hot water heater.
Starting to check it out, suddenly the noise stopped. It was operating on electric, the gas was shut off. I checked the ammeter and it was still heating. Found that my wife was washing her hair and that any time the hot water was running, the heater would squeal.
I read somewher about check valve problems on hot water heaters. Could this be the problem and where could I buy a replacement. I don't remember seeing one in any RV store.
Help would be appreciated.
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Old 04-16-2007, 04:05 AM   #3
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Yup - same symptoms that we have and it is most likely the check valve. Yours might be easy (or not) to access. I believe mine is very difficult to get to so we will leave that to somebody with experience.
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Old 04-16-2007, 05:11 AM   #4
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Sometimes the check valve makes noise because of hard water build up on the valve and spring itself. I would try and flush the hot water heater, refill with at least 3 to 5 cups of Vinegar. fill and warm it up. After warm up turn on the hotwater faucet in the kitchen (HOT) until you smell it coming through... Leave the mixture in there for about 4 hours. Re-flush and refill with fresh water...
Ours used to make noise but after flushing and using a water softener we haven't had any more problems.
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Old 04-22-2007, 04:44 AM   #5
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Thanks for the tip Ed. Tried it yesterday but it didn't work. Guess I'll have to change it. Looks like the heater will have to be pulled but I don't think it will be too hard a job. I'll have to get one ordered tomorrow. I found one on the web already. Wish me luck.
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Old 04-22-2007, 05:21 AM   #6
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Wizard,
Sorry about that.... Ours is still working after I did that, knock on wood.
On our Adventurer you can reach the valve from the water pump door, it is a touch and feel type job... Are you sure you have to pull the HWHeater out to fix it? That's a big job depending on the motor aid, gas line, water line hook-ups!

Good Luck!
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Old 04-22-2007, 02:39 PM   #7
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This is a great site. I was going to ask that very question. I would term my noise a moan that started two months ago and is getting steadily louder but only occurs when the hot water is used. Thanks for the up-to-the-minute info.
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Old 04-23-2007, 03:55 AM   #8
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Sounds like check valves are going South. Had same problem finally no hot water at all. Replaced valves with out removing HWH. Real bear of a job, because of working room. I had dealer do the check valve replacement, I am bigger than the access opening. He did the job in short time. He also replaced some lines which he said were poor quality and replaced all the plasitc fittings.
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Old 04-23-2007, 04:36 AM   #9
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Oooooh! Don't even think about trying to remove the water heater - you'll destroy it in the process. Yea, the check valves can be a real PIA to get to. There are 2 types of RV'ers: Ones that have had check valve failure and those who will. I pulled both of mine and with great ceremony I threw the guts into the sea of Cortez and then reinstalled them. One was under the access panel in the bottom back of the heater. The other was behind the water service panel on the other side of the coach. I had to cut a weld to get that panel off. I feel more secure knowing they will never fail again because they are gone. OK so I can't use potable antifreeze for winterizing now, but I don't use it anyway - I blow out the lines with compressed air. Hope this helps.
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Old 04-23-2007, 02:03 PM   #10
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I've got a nephew that thinks he can reach it. I'll let him try when it comes in. I'm way to big for the pump opening. Too old too.
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Old 04-23-2007, 03:49 PM   #11
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KE0M, am I to understand that the only reason there is a check valve is because of the winterizing system? If that is so I would also remove mine as I never have to winterize and if I ever do I also use compressed air.
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Old 04-26-2007, 10:38 AM   #12
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Problem solved, just to let other people know, in case they have the same problem. It took about 4 hours and a lot of help from a verry good nephew, to remove all the things to get to the back of the water heater and change the check valve on the bottom heater connection. Still had the same problem. We removed the new check valve and took the guts out. Put it back in, still the same problem.
After much head scratching and a little cursing, we went in for lunch. I decided to look at the piping diagrams again and found that there is a check valve on the inlet and outlet of the water heater. Guess which one was bad. Yup, the other one.
After changing the lower check valve 3 times, we put the guts back in, and the upper one once everything is fine. Now another hour to put everything else back together.
Final problem was found to be the rubber o-ring missing in the upper check valve, the outlet. Now I wonder where the o-ring is lodged in the system. What a scarey thought.
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Old 04-26-2007, 11:28 AM   #13
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Aaahhh the saga of those pesky check valves. Will it never end. At least next year you will know right where to go. I have replaced one of mine twice this year already. At least they could have put an access panel in the in bottom so you could access them. Unless you are small and extremely agile it is a PIA.
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