Water Heater Issue

J Stemler · 09-12-2009, 04:50 PM

Have a 2004 Adventurer 38G equiped with the Atwood 10 gal Elec / gas water heater. I believe I have an issue with it not getting enough air for a proper burner operation. Sometimes it takes several tries to light after an extended period of nonuse, that is most likely caused by not having the gas it needs to run, and after a few minutes it clears up and lights OK. However with the compartment door open and the heater door open, I have a nice quiet blue flame, after shutting both doors, it get rather loud and sometimes goes out. I am beginning to think it is not getting enough air with the doors shut. Anyone else experience this or have any solutions.

ernieh · 09-12-2009, 05:46 PM

This has been a common problem. You can probably get more air in by creating more space on the hinge side of the WH door. I just bent mine, but I believe that Winnebago has some kind of spacer setup. I'm sure that the subject has come up on this site before.

wagonmaster2 · 09-12-2009, 08:31 PM

I have the same problem on my 2004 Meridian and especially anytime I'm camping above 7-8,000 feet elevation. I cut and bent the lip on each side of the heater door aout 3-4 inches to give more air circulation but could probably use a larger slot on each side. It helps some, but if it starts cutting on and off several times at high altitude I just go outside and open the heater door till I'm through heating water. As long as I have sufficient electrical power I just use the electric heater.

Wagonmaster2

DAN L · 09-13-2009, 12:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J Stemler

Have a 2004 Adventurer 38G equiped with the Atwood 10 gal Elec / gas water heater. I believe I have an issue with it not getting enough air for a proper burner operation. Sometimes it takes several tries to light after an extended period of nonuse, that is most likely caused by not having the gas it needs to run, and after a few minutes it clears up and lights OK. However with the compartment door open and the heater door open, I have a nice quiet blue flame, after shutting both doors, it get rather loud and sometimes goes out. I am beginning to think it is not getting enough air with the doors shut. Anyone else experience this or have any solutions.

i removed the plastic viewing window cover in the door and drilled 12 3/16" holes in the bottom near the hinge for more air. the holes also drain any water from the tp valve spitting.
there is an airflow adjustment on the gas line also.
my water heater works ok now.

Ed O. · 09-13-2009, 08:17 AM

I have an 04 Journey and have always had this ptoblem. Today I'm going to try some of your suggestions! Thanks!!

zippo · 09-13-2009, 08:55 AM

I have the same problem on a 35U. I cut an opening in the metal WH door across the bottom and put a vent grill in. When camping I leave the bay door cracked open at the bottom. I have seen a couple bay doors the owners have cut an opening in the bay door and installed vented grill covers. They painted the vent covers to match the bay door color and it looked fine.

J Stemler · 09-13-2009, 09:46 AM

Just finished removing the plastic from the spy hole and I also drilled a series of 6 3/8 holes in the WH door about 4" inches up from the bottom, also removed the foam gasket at the bottom of the WH door. It seems to have helped quite a bit

JC2 · 09-13-2009, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DAN L

i removed the plastic viewing window cover in the door and drilled 12 3/16" holes in the bottom near the hinge for more air. the holes also drain any water from the tp valve spitting.
there is an airflow adjustment on the gas line also.
my water heater works ok now.

Where is this airflow adjustment located that you speak of?

SCVJeff · 09-13-2009, 11:29 AM

As mentioned, this is a really common problem. Winnie blames Atwood, Atwood blames Winnie.. It has to do with the deeper flue poking through the door. Atwoods answer is to bend the bottom of the door into a 'V', but that is seldom effective.

On the '06 Meridian/ Journey, Winne cut a nice slot in the door for air, but it appears Atwood never bothered to follow through on their side, so I used a hole punch the popped 4ea. 5/8" holes (i think) into the Atwood door and screened them. Problem gone. See pix.

This ONLY works if you have this:

The only other workable option is to punch holes in from the bottom that I was reluctant to do because of debris, but also didnt need to because of the side slot.

DAN L · 09-13-2009, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JC2

Where is this airflow adjustment located that you speak of?

I am trying to attach the pdf atwood owners manual. look at page 6, picture #9, items A and B. it didn't attach. i got it from the bryantrv.com website.

Luv2go · 09-13-2009, 07:35 PM

Here's the link:

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/operating/atwood1.pdf

Stewart