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Old 04-08-2007, 12:31 PM   #1
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The nylon drain plug on my water heater seeps.
I tightened it up. No luck.
I am going to replace the plug tomorrow.
Any other ideas?
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Old 04-08-2007, 03:30 PM   #2
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I would recommend some teflon plumbers tape wrapped around the threads of the plug.
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Old 04-08-2007, 03:35 PM   #3
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I would recommend some teflon plumbers tape wrapped around the threads of the plug.
That's exactly what I did. No more leak.
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Old 04-08-2007, 04:11 PM   #4
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I too use teflon tape each time I reinstall the drain plug for the hot water heater.
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Old 04-08-2007, 04:43 PM   #5
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Just had this discussion on another list! Teflon tape can help, but won't always do the trick depending on how old the plug is. I carry extra plugs. They come in packs of 2. The plug yellows and hardens with age/exposure to the hot water, and will eventually fail. I (and others) have had the head of the plug crack off. I stuck a sharp knife into the broken off threads and turned them out. Now I just replace the plug annually or so when I do one of my regular flush routines. A fellow owner/friend was told by Winnebago factory service center not to replace the nylon plug with a brass pulg because the nylon plug is a safety feature designed to melt/blow out if the thermostat fails and overheats the water. I don't know about that for sure, but it is easy to carry an extra plug or two and to replace it annually or so.
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Old 04-08-2007, 04:44 PM   #6
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If you do replace it, use a nylon plug not PVC. PVC is not rated for hot water. I would still use the teflon tape on either. Just an old plummer talking.
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Old 04-09-2007, 05:01 AM   #7
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Camping world has a sacrificing rod that replaces the plug and it has a built in drain. Protect the water heater and make winterizing easier....win; win for about $13.
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Old 04-09-2007, 05:11 AM   #8
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Has anyone replaced the nylon plug with one of those brass ones that has a petcock for draining?
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Old 04-09-2007, 05:21 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by SeeTheUSA:
Has anyone replaced the nylon plug with one of those brass ones that has a petcock for draining?
I did. Used 1/2" brass close nipple, elbow, then 1/2" brass ball valve (had to use the elbow to get the door closed). Works fine.
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Old 04-09-2007, 09:26 AM   #10
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sacrificing rod that replaces the plug and it has a built in drain. Protect the water heater and make winterizing easier
...and make flushing much more difficult.

I know many do use anode rods, but Atwood WH tanks do not need them like differently constructed tanks do. If you do use a metal plug, be sure to use teflon tape on the threads, and you need to remove it at least once a year to ensure it does not freeze in place due to reaction of the different metals. That rather defeats the purpose of a plug with a built in drain, but protecting the tank should be more important than convenience in draining.
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Old 04-09-2007, 05:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by AFChap:
Just had this discussion on another list! Teflon tape can help, but won't always do the trick depending on how old the plug is. I carry extra plugs. They come in packs of 2. The plug yellows and hardens with age/exposure to the hot water, and will eventually fail. I (and others) have had the head of the plug crack off. I stuck a sharp knife into the broken off threads and turned them out. Now I just replace the plug annually or so when I do one of my regular flush routines. A fellow owner/friend was told by Winnebago factory service center not to replace the nylon plug with a brass pulg because the nylon plug is a safety feature designed to melt/blow out if the thermostat fails and overheats the water. I don't know about that for sure, but it is easy to carry an extra plug or two and to replace it annually or so.
Great idea , now I will buy a couple of new nylon plugs to have in case. Never though about it blowing out for safewty reason if the thermostat sticks. thanks great info.
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Old 02-28-2009, 03:59 PM   #12
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Can anybody tell me the proper size socket for the drain plug? I'm guessing 22mm or even 7/8"?

Thanks.
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Old 03-01-2009, 02:15 AM   #13
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My nylon plug developed a leak and I replaced it with a brass plug that had a petcock. No more leaks and I don't have to remove the plug to drain the tank.
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Old 03-01-2009, 06:41 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by scirocco22:
Can anybody tell me the proper size socket for the drain plug? I'm guessing 22mm or even 7/8"?
scirocco22, That's a good question that I have solved using an adjustable wrench.
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Old 03-01-2009, 07:08 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by DriVer:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by scirocco22:
Can anybody tell me the proper size socket for the drain plug? I'm guessing 22mm or even 7/8"?
scirocco22, That's a good question that I have solved using an adjustable wrench. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Metric or standard adjustable wrench?
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Old 03-01-2009, 07:45 AM   #16
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Hi Ho: Everyone will have to decide the best way to solve this design problem. One way is to use teflon tape and just buy a handful of replacement plugs for when it leaks. Too much hassle for me.

Another way is to install some kind of permanenet fixture with a drain. The problem is that if whatever is screwed into the water is not plastic (metal of some kind) the threads will eventually want to weld themselves in place.

My solution is really simple. Replace the plastic plug with a brass plug with teflon tape and remove it every fall when the water heater is drained. Never leaks and is easy to get in and out if done at least once a year. Brass is soft and close enough electrically to aluminum so that for me it has worked well for eight years now.

The water heater does have a pop-off valve--or over temperature pressure (OTP) valve--so that should take care of any over-heated water for whatever reason.

Just my thoughts, Dirk
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Old 03-01-2009, 10:34 AM   #17
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This is silly. Instead of spending $$ and time and fretting about brass, aluminum, teflon and anode rods just replace the .99 nylon plug each year and be done with it. It would be cheap if I had to replace them three times a year.
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Old 03-01-2009, 02:15 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by Navy Flier:
This is silly. Instead of spending $$ and time and fretting about brass, aluminum, teflon and anode rods just replace the .99 nylon plug each year and be done with it. It would be cheap if I had to replace them three times a year.
This is brilliant! I agree...I think someone said this before...around and around we go..
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Old 03-01-2009, 03:22 PM   #19
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I bought a couple PVC plugs for 19 cents each to keep as spares. I gave one to an Alfa owner parked 2 sites from me last week.

Atwood uses nylon because of a slight galvanic action between brass and aluminum. Plus, brass can easily strip the aluminum threads in the tank. Strips those threads and you have a problem.

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Old 03-01-2009, 03:40 PM   #20
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Jeez, sorry to revive an old thread with my stupid question about the socket size of the drain plug. *laughs*

I just quickly looked at the plug and it appeared that the easiest way to extract it was with a socket. So from your responses, I guess there's enough room around there to just use a crescent wrench?

I have yet to drain my hot water tank. So, I'm going to ask one more stupid question.

And once you remove the plug, do you just let the water drain all over the cover?

It would sure be nice to be able to hook a hose of some type to the hole so that you could direct the water where you want it to go. Not necessarily a garden hose because I realize that would be over-kill for 10 gallons but some type of smaller diameter hose would be nice.
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