Water Heater Drain Plug Leak - Page 2

DavidC1225 · 03-02-2009, 12:51 AM

If my memory serves me as it should, I believe I used a 7/8" socket to remove the plug, but I could be wrong.

emmmw · 03-02-2009, 07:38 AM

I can never guess what size sockets I need for any particular situation... I think that's why they sell them by the bunch. When one doesn't fit I just try the next one!

codgerbill · 03-02-2009, 07:51 AM

Quote:

scirocco22

I have had my coach for almost two seasons now. I have winterized it for the last two winters and that included draining the hot water tank. When I removed the plug the water comes gushing out in a big stream. No harm no foul, although one must be careful to remember to have the HWH turned off for a while so that the water is not too hot. I recently bought the brass plug with the petcock to drain and will use the plumbers tape when I install it.

theroc · 03-02-2009, 09:31 AM

Thanks for the comments, guys!

Yeah, I'm way overdue for my first drain of the tank. I'm hoping I haven't reduced the life span by not draining and flushing it for two seasons.

I looked at it again last night and it appears that the easiest way is to use a socket wrench with maybe a short extension. There just doesn't seem to be enough room to maneuver a crescent wrench in there.

The reason I asked about the size of socket is that I'm on the road right now and I inadevertently left my larger sockets at another location and only have smaller sockets with me. I figured I'd go and buy a socket specifically for this task if I knew the exact size.

Thanks, Dave, I'll try to buy a 7/8 and hope that it will do the trick.

I'm also going to have to secure some plugs. I think I'd like to use the plastic ones since Paul mentioned that the factory seems to think that the plastic ones were used for a purpose more than just a cost cutting move on Atwood's part.

I've shopped a bit for the plastic plugs online but shipping seems to be more than the set of 2 plugs themselves. Does anybody know of a good place to buy the Atwood plugs online or at retail? Does Campingworld sell them? I didn't see them on their website.

Thanks, codgerbill for letting me know that you all just let the water flow where it goes. I don't know why I don't want it to splash all over the back of the cover! I can wipe it dry as soon as the tank drains! *hah!*

Thanks again, everyone.

bobpie · 03-02-2009, 09:32 AM

Great Idea

becks · 03-02-2009, 10:12 AM

Our local CW has the plastic water heater plugs in two packs. They were not on the shelf. They have them at the service counter for whatever water heater you have. I carry two with me and install a new one each year.

theroc · 03-02-2009, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by becks:
Our local CW has the plastic water heater plugs in two packs. They were not on the shelf. They have them at the service counter for whatever water heater you have. I carry two with me and install a new one each year.

Thanks, becks. It's good to know that CW has them behind the counter. I'll remember that. However, I'm over 40 miles from a CW right now so I'm thinking it may be just as well to order some online. I see a place that I can get a dozen and with shipping, they come to about $2.67 apiece or about $5.34 for the card of 2.

I'll probably just order a bunch and be done with it.

Roadking · 03-03-2009, 05:49 AM

We full time and I have an Attwood 10gal HWH and had been draining and flushing the tank yearly.

A few months ago the ECO on the 110V heater failed and arc-ed which resulted in the arc burning a hole in the aluminum tank. I pulled the HWH and it seemed pretty heavy so prior to taking the tank to the welding shop I pulled the inlet and outlet fittings and used all the ports to flush it. While flushing I shook it ect. and at least two quarts of condensed calcium chunks were flushed from the tank. Some of these chunks were 1/2 in. in diameter. The resultant tank was easily 10 lbs lighter!!!

From what I could see of the tank interior there was some evidence of aluminum corrision, however, that tank is very thick, well over 1/8 inch and maybe as much as 3/16 in. thich. Even with this corrosioin, my tank is 6 years old and still holding. I expect I will need to replace it eventually. After replacement the fittings are still leaking a little, even with teflon tape and with screwing them in until I thought they would break.

So....in my opinion, flushing from the drain helps but will not remove all of the deposits. And from my opinion, it doesn't seem that the annual flushing did anything as I only seen a few small chunks of calcium flow out during the annual flush.

JC2 · 03-03-2009, 07:46 AM

One thing that I started doing several years ago at least once a year,(spring when dewinterizing) and sometimes twice(depends on the water hardness where we've been during the year) is to use 1 gal of generic white vinegar per 15 gal of water in the fresh water tank, run through all the lines/WH until the vinegar smell is noticeable, the let sit for 4-6 hrs. I then drain the water tank/WH and fill with fresh water and run for several minutes. This has sunstantially reduced calcium buildup throughout the system. I suppose one could also just remove the pressure valve on the WH tank, put in 1-2 qts of Vinegar, finish filling with water and let sit for 4-6 hrs. 1/2-3/4 cup of baking soda mixed with 1 gal of warm water then poured into the tank with the fresh refill will usually get rid of any leftover vinegar taste.

JC2 · 03-03-2009, 07:54 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by scirocco22:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by becks:
Our local CW has the plastic water heater plugs in two packs. They were not on the shelf. They have them at the service counter for whatever water heater you have. I carry two with me and install a new one each year.

Thanks, becks. It's good to know that CW has them behind the counter. I'll remember that. However, I'm over 40 miles from a CW right now so I'm thinking it may be just as well to order some online. I see a place that I can get a dozen and with shipping, they come to about $2.67 apiece or about $5.34 for the card of 2.

I'll probably just order a bunch and be done with it. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

scirocco22:
I purchased a separate short socket/short extension and 3/8 driver with a swivel head for removing our plastic plugs. As others have stated, use teflon tape when installing the plug which is replace 1-2 times a year. I keep several on hand and also have a brass one when a drain spigot that I will use temporarily in an emergency if I run out of plastic plugs.

theroc · 03-03-2009, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by JC2:

scirocco22:
I purchased a separate short socket/short extension and 3/8 driver with a swivel head for removing our plastic plugs. As others have stated, use teflon tape when installing the plug which is replace 1-2 times a year. I keep several on hand and also have a brass one when a drain spigot that I will use temporarily in an emergency if I run out of plastic plugs.

Thanks, JC2.

Can you confirm that the socket is a 7/8"?

JC2 · 03-03-2009, 09:52 AM

Just went outside and checked. 7/8 it is.

I've also been thinking(

) about possibly trying to find some harder plastic plugs at Lowes/Home Depot as they undoubtedly will be cheaper and probably more durable.

theroc · 03-03-2009, 10:33 AM

Thanks so much, JC2, for taking the trouble to check on that socket. I appreciate it!

Yeah, good idea. I'll check on that too the next time I'm at Home Depot although I'm wondering if they'd have the same thread pattern. Let us know if you're successful.

theroc · 03-03-2009, 11:29 AM

JC2, what do you think about these?:

http://www.idealtruevalue.com/...let/the-11590/Detail

http://www.idealtruevalue.com/...let/the-70311/Detail

You can't beat the price. I have no idea if they'd be better made or have the same NPT threading.

Roadking · 03-03-2009, 12:09 PM

If you buy a socket get a 6 point one as it will be less likely to round the corners on the soft plastic plug when you remove it. A 12 point socket will certainly round the corners.

JC2 · 03-04-2009, 04:54 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by scirocco22:
JC2, what do you think about these?:

http://www.idealtruevalue.com/...let/the-11590/Detail

http://www.idealtruevalue.com/...let/the-70311/Detail

You can't beat the price. I have no idea if they'd be better made or have the same NPT threading.

I would take an old plug with me to be sure. A RV supply place will always be higher than a normal store.

DAN L · 03-04-2009, 04:50 PM

i am using the 1/2" npt plastic plugs from lowes and home depot in my atwood water heater. 7/8 wrench size.
same threads as original. about $1 each.
the end twisted off on the original plug and i had to use a hacksaw to cut the residue out. it was hard to do without damaging the threads.
i am going to buy a brass plug for next time.

wagonmaster2 · 03-06-2009, 01:50 PM

'rocco - you were right on both sizes. I just took mine out to drain the WH and a 22mm or 7/8" either one will work, but mine wasn't really really tight. If buying a new socket the suggestion to get the 6 point was right on.

Wagonmaster2
2004 Meridian 36G

FDchief · 03-10-2009, 12:20 PM

It seems several posters are worried about electrolysis between the different metals. Don't worry too much about it, if you notice the pressure / temperature valve is BRASS. As many have posted, annually when you drain / flush your tank, remove the plug, and flush the tank with a fresh water tank filler tube. I find that the length of the plastic tube at the end of the hose bib allows for movement within the tank, and the decrease in diameter allow for added pressure to remove much of the residual calcium deposits. When your done flushing, replace the teflon tape, and replace the plug (snug but not overly tight). Your good to go for another year.

theroc · 03-10-2009, 02:57 PM

Hey, thanks everyone ...there's some good information given here to consider.