Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 12-01-2018, 04:32 PM   #1
Winnebago Owner
 
Frederick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Western Colorado
Posts: 52
Water Heater Drain Help '13 Itasca Sunstar 26HE

I have a 2013 Winnebago Itasca Sunstar 26HE. I just got back from a month trip and will be home until January where I will take a 2 month trip. I drained all my lines, tank, and associates hoses, put antifreeze in the p-traps, and I use a pressure regulator that adapts to my fill intake so I can pressure up the system at 3 psi to insure a complete drain.

However, when opening the hot water faucets I can still hear some gurgling in the hot water heater tank. So, I think there is still a little water in the tank. I pulled the outside side panel and looked for a drain, but all I see is the pop off valve. I looked in the owners manual and it doesn’t give any details on draining the water heater.

Does anyone else have the same model of rig that could let me know if there is a drain plug on the water heater. It could be I was looking right at it and just didn’t recognize it as such.

Thanks for the help.
Frederick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2018, 06:40 PM   #2
Winnebago Owner
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 55
Mine has no drain either so I remove the anode rod on the bottom of the tank to drain it. I think it takes a 1 1/16" socket to remove it.
Dentkimterry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2018, 09:10 PM   #3
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Pflugerville/Austin, Tx
Posts: 7,368
Drain and anode are the same on some. I thought I was pulling the drain and found it also had an anode rod on it. Maybe a closer look as it will just look like a big nut on the kinda low side of the tank. I like to put a valve on mine to avoid the chance of cross threading if I pull and reinstall it enough but that may be out if I need an anode rod. Maybe different metal in this tank than others I've had?
Morich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2018, 11:32 PM   #4
Winnebago Master
 
akeagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Deming, NM
Posts: 582
If that plug is removed and there is no anode rod, only something that looks corroded, its possible the rod had done its job and literally dissolved. I removed the plug from my 2016 Minnie Winnie last summer and although the anode rod was still attached, the 1/2" diameter rod had corroded down to about 1/8" at the plug. So, with your 5 year old coach if the anode rod has never been replaced, it just might have broken off and its remains are laying on the bottom of the tank.
__________________
2016 Minnie Winnie 27Q on a 2015 Ford E450 chassis. Retired U.S. Air Force. Lived in Anchorage, Alaska for 30+ years. Now Living in Deming, NM.
akeagle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2018, 07:46 AM   #5
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Pflugerville/Austin, Tx
Posts: 7,368
Quote:
Originally Posted by akeagle View Post
If that plug is removed and there is no anode rod, only something that looks corroded, its possible the rod had done its job and literally dissolved. I removed the plug from my 2016 Minnie Winnie last summer and although the anode rod was still attached, the 1/2" diameter rod had corroded down to about 1/8" at the plug. So, with your 5 year old coach if the anode rod has never been replaced, it just might have broken off and its remains are laying on the bottom of the tank.
This is something that I've wondered about at times but never really fought it either way or looked for reasoning. Some tanks have rods and other never do. This is the first RV that I have had an anode rod, even though I have had several RV's that have been much older,with much older tanks that were never designed with rods. I expect to find them in electric water heaters and have always understood it was to save the tank from the currents created by the electrical part.
So my question is why do I have one on this unit when it has no electrical water heating? I like the idea of using a small valve designed for water heaters as it makes it quick, easy and less prone to error. This is what I've always used:
https://www.google.com/search?q=camc...hrome&ie=UTF-8
But I now see it only in 1/2" on a quick look. Perhaps the different brand and different metals as well as different size fittings?
Morich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2018, 12:15 AM   #6
Winnebago Master
 
akeagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Deming, NM
Posts: 582
The water heater in our Minnie Winnie is a Suburban propane model with aluminum tank. As I understand, all water heaters, including all types of residential WHs, have a tendency to develop galvanic electrolysis due to dissimilar metals used in their construction and impurities in the water. The anode rod is made of magnesium and designed to be sacrificial by in effect attracting that electrolysis to itself instead of the more important parts. Water quality varies considerably everywhere around the country due to acidity and mineral content. That has a direct bearing on how long an anode rod can be expected to last, and thus should probably be checked annually. If your MH doesn't have one, I suspect other manufacturers may make their tanks out of plastic or perhaps lined with some kind of coating that prevents direct water/tank contact. If an existing plug/anode rod is replaced with a drain valve, I could see the possibility of considerably shortening the life of the water heater due to the galvanic electrolysis. Any other opinions out there?
__________________
2016 Minnie Winnie 27Q on a 2015 Ford E450 chassis. Retired U.S. Air Force. Lived in Anchorage, Alaska for 30+ years. Now Living in Deming, NM.
akeagle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2018, 06:39 AM   #7
Just Trying to Help
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 526
Atwood water heaters ---> Aluminum tank ---> NYLON drain plug only
Suburban water heaters ---> Steel tank ---> Drain plug with anode

Follow manufacturer's recommendations, per the installation and operation manual for the model heater you have.

I may be incorrect, but I believe neither Atwood nor Suburban mention drain valves installed in place of the drain plug. People do add them, though, at their own risk.

I installed a drain valve in the cold water inlet to the heater. It is actually lower than the drain plug opening.

A small amount of water left in the heater (such as that below the drain plug opening) does not create a problem for the tank, should it freeze.
__________________
Mark
2008 Holiday Rambler Admiral 30PDD (Ford F-53 chassis)
2009 Honda Fit Sport
l1v3fr33ord1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2018, 07:16 AM   #8
Winnebago Owner
 
Frederick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Western Colorado
Posts: 52
Thanks for the advice

Thank you to everyone who has chimed in on this issue. With your help I have located what I believe is the drain plug. My water heater is an Atwood so I found the nylon plug which also means I don’t have an anode to worry about. For now, while it’s parked in the barn, I have an oil heater inside the RV keeping the unit warm along with a small thermostatic ceramic heater in the water box compartment and heavy insulation placed under the outside cover to the water heater. It’s only 4 degrees today so I think I’ll let this cold snap pass before investigating further. If I am right and it’s a nylon plug with no anode I’ll be installing a drain valve. Thanks again to all for helping.
Frederick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2018, 08:13 AM   #9
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Pflugerville/Austin, Tx
Posts: 7,368
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frederick View Post
Thank you to everyone who has chimed in on this issue. With your help I have located what I believe is the drain plug. My water heater is an Atwood so I found the nylon plug which also means I don’t have an anode to worry about. For now, while it’s parked in the barn, I have an oil heater inside the RV keeping the unit warm along with a small thermostatic ceramic heater in the water box compartment and heavy insulation placed under the outside cover to the water heater. It’s only 4 degrees today so I think I’ll let this cold snap pass before investigating further. If I am right and it’s a nylon plug with no anode I’ll be installing a drain valve. Thanks again to all for helping.
You sound like a reasonably smart fellow and most likely will have this thought out but I might mention what I did. Yes, it is certainly a bad idea to go against what the manual for your own heater suggests on what plug to use on your heater but that does not mean we can't go a step further and know WHY!
Use only a nylon plug? That seems like a good idea to keep from having two different metals in contact as they can corrode much quicker and can seal themself together. But a little thought can help you get what you want as well as keep yourself out of trouble! Use PVC or CPVC to go in the hole, run it out to a convenient spot and then add the valve!
I never liked making a hard water mark down the side of the RV so running it out to drain into a funnel is a win/win for me.
As far as I've figured, with an anode, I'm pretty well stuck with it as a bad design.
Morich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2018, 11:30 AM   #10
Winnebago Owner
 
Frederick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Western Colorado
Posts: 52
Thanks for the advice Morich. I used to teach metallurgy so I have already determined that if the nylon plug is the drain that I will use a pvc adapter and run a heat certified pex hose with the valve on the end so I can drain outside the body and avoid streaks as the residue from any heater is generally highly mineralized. If I do this I will post pictures for future reference.
__________________
Frederick
Frederick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2018, 12:47 PM   #11
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Pflugerville/Austin, Tx
Posts: 7,368
Okay, thought that might be thought of already! I find no problem with heat and CPVC as it is rated for 200 and the heat is not really going to get too high at the drain, only as hot as the water and that is not much past 120-140, so I have gone with it for years and never seen problems. I tend to use what is on hand and CPVC is one of those so I have added the normal brass valve like used behind a stool and left enough CPVC to bend it out enough to hold the type of funnel I use with a long tube to get it down to the ground. I try not to make it difficult. Got plenty of bigger problems to deal with. A bit more flex with PEX? That would be nice but I'm not into working it too much. I'm trying to stop working and that 50-60 crimping tool is holding my education down!
Morich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2018, 05:15 PM   #12
Winnebago Owner
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 122
I have a 26 HE. Before draining the hot water tank, I turn off the valve in the sink cabinet. Then I remove the nylon plug. I connect air to the hose line and use 30 psi to flush all the lines.
After that you can add RV antifreeze to the system. That is located in the passenger side compartment where the water tank is. There should be a hose for adding the antifreeze to the syste.
rottenkid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2018, 07:23 PM   #13
Winnebago Master
 
Ray,IN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 2,039
Another thing to remember, there is no need to fill the water heater with RV anti-freeze, just drain it, turn the bypass valve to the bypass positions before proceeding with winterization; just drain the fresh water tank. What little water remains in those tanks cannot do any harm because the surface area is much larger than the depth, this makes the ice hump up in the center instead of pushing outward.
I've been doing it that way for perhaps 40 years now without any freeze damage.
__________________
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA 1SG, retired;PPA,Good Sam Life member,FMCA. "We the people are the rightful masters of both the Congress and the Courts - not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow men who pervert the Constitution." Abraham Lincoln
Ray,IN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2018, 05:34 PM   #14
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Midwest
Posts: 45
Water heater

A little water in the bottom is not enough to expand and damage anything. Atwood heaters are aluminum tanks, no need for Anode rod. Suburban are a type of metal that need the Anode style plug.
Indy Bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2018, 08:39 PM   #15
Winnie-Wise
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Waynesboro,PA USA
Posts: 307
Our last 4 rigs had Atwood heaters and draining them frequently those plastic plugs don't hold up. We replace them with brass ones from the hardware store. I had checked years ago with Atwood and they said brass was fine.
__________________
Downsized Winnebago C, 24 V /08 Saturn Vue/2014 Town and Country Van/03 Goldwing (Big Red)Recently triked Roadsmith kit
Beabop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2018, 08:54 PM   #16
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Pflugerville/Austin, Tx
Posts: 7,368
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beabop View Post
Our last 4 rigs had Atwood heaters and draining them frequently those plastic plugs don't hold up. We replace them with brass ones from the hardware store. I had checked years ago with Atwood and they said brass was fine.
Fully agree that brass was always fine when I have used it but then I wanted to move the water out away from the side and the brass valve seemed harder to refit to use a tube, so CPVC seemed to work easier for me.
One point to keep in mind when asking brass or not? there are tons of brass valves sold by Camping World and dozens of other places and made especially for this. This might be one of those places where theory may lose out to actual experience with using the brass valves.
Morich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2018, 07:20 AM   #17
Winnebago Master
 
Ray,IN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 2,039
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beabop View Post
Our last 4 rigs had Atwood heaters and draining them frequently those plastic plugs don't hold up. We replace them with brass ones from the hardware store. I had checked years ago with Atwood and they said brass was fine.
Regardless of what an employee of Atwood told you, brass will react with aluminum, although not a quickly as steel: https://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm
__________________
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA 1SG, retired;PPA,Good Sam Life member,FMCA. "We the people are the rightful masters of both the Congress and the Courts - not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow men who pervert the Constitution." Abraham Lincoln
Ray,IN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2018, 08:08 AM   #18
Winnebago Owner
 
Frederick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Western Colorado
Posts: 52
Thanks for the advice Rottenkid. Beccause you own the same model of motorhome I have s separate question.

I just installed a new radio in my 26HE. I noticed that the wiring diagram for the new radio and the chassis harness has wires that are for rear speakers. My rig does not have rear speakers. Do you know if our rigs have the wiring for rear speakers already in place? If so, do you know where they are located?

Thanks again.
__________________
Frederick
Frederick is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
heat, heater, water, water heater, itasca


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Any Winnebago Vista or Sunstar 26HE owners ? cvcman Winnebago Class A Motorhomes 6 10-12-2018 01:43 AM
2013 Itasca Sunstar 26HE Pantry drawer jmo01830 Winnebago Class A Motorhomes 15 06-29-2018 10:44 AM
New owner 2013 Itasca Sunstar 26HE jmo01830 Welcome Mat 8 06-18-2018 01:38 PM
Vista Sunstar 26HE 2wheelluge Winnebago Class A Motorhomes 42 03-12-2016 06:04 PM
Black Tank smell in 2013 Sunstar 26HE Rossi6998 Winnebago Class A Motorhomes 19 08-16-2014 11:07 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Winnebago Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:35 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.