Use of Heat Pump

[doit2010]

How do I use the "Heat Pump" on my new to me 2001 Suncrusiser 32V. How do I set the controls on the thermostat to use the "heat pump". I have read the manual but not sure I am understanding how it works.

If I set the “True Air” to:

1.Fan Mode to Auto
2.Thermostat to Elec Heat

And heat then flows out of the roof vents the heat pump is working correctly, but if it gets to cold the unit will automatically switch to Gas Heat (propane) and then the Heat will flow through the floor vents?

Do I understand this correctly?

And is this cheaper than paying for propane? I have to pay for metered electricity at the park I am at for a month.

Thanks

ESW

[Belgian]

You almost have it. If the temp. difference is greater than 4 degrees the propane furnce will come on.
Let me explain my understanding. The inside of the MH is 65. You turn the thermostat to elec heat and set it to 70. The difference is greater than 4 degrees and the propane furnace will come on and heat until the MH reaches 70. But, if you turn it to elec heat and set it at 68 dgrees the heat pump will come on. To maintain elec heat you have to raise the set point while the elec heat is on to 70 as the temp in the MH raises.
If one is cheaper than the other I don't know. That would be based on cost for each which you know.
The heat pump won't work well when outside temps are below 40 degrees.

[amanda_h]

Good explanation, Belgian!

Yes, the heat pump function is very inefficient. In fact, you'll probably wonder if it's heating at all sometimes as if you feel the amount of heat coming out of the vents, it's not very warm at all. And, as Belgian mentioned, it even becomes more inefficient as the outside temperature goes below 40°. However, we've noticed that our heat pump does function at near or even below freezing temperatures if we are in an arid climate as in the desert southwest. Some say that the heat pump function in an RV is there primarily for taking the chill out of the air when outside temperatures are above 40-45° and not for your primary heating source.

The better alternative to the heat pump in our opinion is an auxiliary plug-in heater of some type. We use a cheap ceramic-type heaters that we plug into an outlet. Other RVers will use more expensive heaters but the cheap ones have served us well through the years.

In freezing temperatures, we will use both our propane furnace in combination with one or more of the ceramic heaters. You'll want to run your furnace some of the time as to keep your basement compartments somewhat warm so your pipes won't freeze.

Some locations have relatively inexpensive electric rates. If so, you'll probably find that using electric heat will be cheaper than propane. When heating by propane alone, we've found it adds up quickly. So if we know we are in an area where electric rates are relatively low, we will use more electric heat and if we're in an area where the electric rates are high, we will try to use an equal amount of each.

[Genset]

Can only comment on my setup, have a 5 button thermostat on wall to controll the 2 Aqua Hot, Diesel or Electric, the 2 Heat pumps or a/c units, fan controls auto, hi or low speed. Of course there are 4 thermostats around the coach, plus can heat the engine.
Hope this will help
Dave

[doit2010]

Still not sure what is going on with my basement AC/Heat Pump. I still have questions. It has been said that the heat coming out might not be very warm, but my heat comes out quite warm. Is it possible that I have something different than a Heat Pump? And actually have some type of electric heating system? One reason for asking this is that the amp meter on the control panel shows a lot amps when on, starts out at about 16 amps and the gets up to 28 or 29 amps? (I only have a 30 amp system) This is on a 2001 Itasca Suncrusiser 32V and I am quite sure that this has not been modified in any way by the two previous owners.

The other question or comment is that when using the AC/Heat Pumps it is quite loud, especially when compared to the use of the gas heating system. When the gas system is on you hardly hear it, is that normal?

[Ding-a-ling]

Originally Posted by doit2010

Still not sure what is going on with my basement AC/Heat Pump. I still have questions. It has been said that the heat coming out might not be very warm, but my heat comes out quite warm. Is it possible that I have something different than a Heat Pump?
The other question or comment is that when using the AC/Heat Pumps it is quite loud, especially when compared to the use of the gas heating system. When the gas system is on you hardly hear it, is that normal?

Here's our experience:
With the heat pump running with outside temps between 45 - 70 it takes a little while for the heat to get really warm. But when it warms up it really puts out the heat! And yes, you must keep track of the set temperature , and raise it as the coach warms, to maintain the 2 or 3 degree differential.

Of course the gas furnace is quieter than the HP, and that is normal. We don't find the noise to be a problem, though.

FJF

[Skip426]

Flipping over to the cost side, depending on your use of propane vs electric and price of power vs possible needing a propane delivery if availible or having to break camp to go for propane. Every park, unit and price point are going to be different, with the added variables of outside temp and what you consider a comfortable temp inside your coach and the level of insulation of the coach. Up to you to make that call.

[doit2010]

Thanks too all for you input, now still questioning the AMP's. Anyone with that information?

[Davdeb1]

If the amp meter is going up that high, then then Heat Pump is definitely working. You must have an a\c heat pump in the basement. The biggest user of power in you unit is the ac\heat pump. You may even have heat strips also. That is resistance electric heating which uses a lot of power.

[new2RVn]

We leave our fan in the "on" position to help with noise. When it runs all the time you become accustomed to the noise and don't get that sudden blast when it comes on.

[mrschwarz]

Originally Posted by new2RVn

We leave our fan in the "on" position to help with noise. When it runs all the time you become accustomed to the noise and don't get that sudden blast when it comes on.

Can you run the fan full time when in heat mode? Ours will only run when the thermostat calls for heat.

[Jim]

hi..re the amp usage..the unit has 2 compressors which are both on when using the heat pump..first one starts and the second one kicks in about 30 seconds later..this accounts for the increase in amps...in a/c mode, if the setting is within 2 degrees of the room temp, only the first one runs..if the one cannot maintain the desired coolness or the thermostat is set 3 degrees above room temp, then the second compressor will kick in also..if the thermostat is set 5 degrees above room temp in the heat pump mode, the gas furnace will come on also and both will run until the desired temp is reached..in heat pump mode i set the temp 3 degrees above room temp and keep moving it up as the room temp rises to avoid starting the gas furnace..i only use it when the outside temp is 40 or above to avoid freezing on the fins....on fan auto or on positions with cool or heat settings ,the fan only runs when the compressors are operating..the fan on mine only runs continually when the thermostst is set to off..hope this is understandable and helpful..jim..

[doit2010]

Jim, What you have said makes sense, but I did not think that my 32V has two compressors?? How do I know if in fact I have two compressors? Again what you are telling me is what is happening so I guess that should be proof enough that I do have two units.

Thanks, now I really do get what is happening.

[autofish]

doit2010 look in the breaker box if you have two 20amp breakers marked ac then you have two compresors. I have never seen a basement ac that did not have two.

[Yoda2405]

doit2010:

All the basement units I have seen or heard about on Winnebago have 2 compressors housed in one unit. They come on in stages as discussed and the first draws 16 to 17 amps while the second stage draws slightly less due to no having a second evaporator fan outside kicking in. The nice thing is that both stages will operate on a 30 A service where on my current coach both roof top units will not operate on a 30 A service.
It sounds like your unit is working normally if it is behaving as discussed with the different temperature settings on your thermostat.
Enjoy your new toy,

[mikf]

one thing that I did not see mentioned was when the heat pump can not keep up and the propane kicks on, after a set amount of time the heat pump will try again. I think it is after an hour. so just leave it on electric heat if that turns out to be cheaper.

[Journey39n]

As I understand the heating system, heatpump and propane furnace work together as a team. If the heatpump can not reach the thermostat setting, the propane furnace will kick on.

Again, as I understand the system, if the propane furnace has to kick on three times in a row to boost the heatpump, then the heatpump will stay off for a period of time (5 hours I think) before trying again.

I have observed this behaviour both in my current RV, and in my 2003 Horizon. Seems to be a pretty good design for those cold nights, that I drive south to avoid.

One other thing, in my present rig, it appears that below certain outside temps, say 40, the propane furnace fan will kick on for about 60 seconds at the end of the heat pump cycle. No burner, just fan. I'm guessing that it is to send some heated coach air down into the basement. But that is just a guess.

[Navy Flier]

You statement about what you see on the amp meter indicates you have two compressors. When the first one comes on you should see about 16 amps, as you do. There is then a time delay to let the first compressor settle down. When the second one comes on you will see up to 32 instant amps which should very quickly settle down to 22 to 24 amps.