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Old 11-12-2018, 08:39 AM   #15
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On my unit I regularly use the Calgon and Dawn to keep the black tank clean. Many use the water softener with Dawn but couldn't say which is the best. But as stated by others that using the water softener wouldn't hurt.
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Old 11-12-2018, 09:56 AM   #16
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One more note... be careful what goes down the drain into your gray tank. Oils and fats will definitely leave a film on the sides of the tank which can disable the in-tank sensors. Powerful degreasers and enzyme tank cleaners may be necessary to get sensors back to operational. The See Level system has an external tank sensor and uses radio waves to sense the tank level. Yes, it does require access to the tanks and may be a chore to install (using the original sensor wires) but it works sooo much better.
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Old 11-22-2018, 11:25 AM   #17
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So I ended up using about two cups of fabric softener, a cup of liquid dish soap and between 1/3-1/2 tank of water in the gray tank. Took about a half hour, fifteen mile drive, with a lot of starts and stops to get some sloshing action. I was hopeful, but I can't say this exercise ended up unexpectedly...no change in the gauge reading. But it did leave better odor control for a few days; so we were happy about that. Guess I'll look into some of the chemical solutions now.

Thanks to all who replied with suggestions.

Fred
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Old 11-30-2018, 09:51 AM   #18
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Fred,

I have had the exact problem as you. Grey water tank problems only. I suspect oils and greases and my most suspicions are on coffee grounds. I tried everything chemical under the sun, more than twice, and no luck.

The final (and only) solution was mechanical cleaning. I removed the dump valve - surprisingly easy, held on to each tank by a rubber sleeve pipe connector. This is on a 27n where the grey water and black water join in a Y assembly.

I stuck a pressure washer wand up in there, and couldn't believe the gunk that came out, even after weeks of all kinds of chemicals and treatments. The gunk was a sticky crust made up of Dawn soap, Calgon, coffee grounds, commercial tank cleaner products, and oil and grease solidified into a wall-coating that was very strong.

After cleaning with the pressure washer, the sensors began operating correctly, and stayed that way for a year. But even with better caution on what goes in the drain, after a year, it is showing 3/4 full all the time. So I have to clean it again. I believe a regular hose will work, with a small diameter nozzle at the end. I'm not sure a pressure washer is required.

We currently use lots of Dawn, but no other tank chemicals. I will clean the grey water tank again mechanically, then start using a tank treatment of some kind and see if I can make it stay clean more than a year.

Best of luck.
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Old 11-30-2018, 12:16 PM   #19
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Have you tried any enzyme cleaners? Happy Campers comes to mind, available on Amazon. Otherwise, forget using the original tank monitor and upgrade to See Level tank sensors. I did earlier this year and unknown tank levels are a thing of the past. Installed properly, you can tell within a gallon or two what's in the tank and the LPG tank monitor is crazy accurate compared to the original. Yes, it is a bit of effort to install but it uses the original wiring. In my case, the water pump "On" LED and "Pilot Out" LED had to be rewired as they are powered by the original logic board which was removed. It's a bit un-nerving to cut the wiring harness and rewire to the new panel and I left enough wire on it to be reconnected if desired. I chose to remove the original faceplate and cut a hole in it to accommodate the new monitor panel; again a bit un-nerving. I am quite handy with electrical stuff and tools in general and knew it was not beyond my capabilities. I'll try to attach a photo of the finished panel and I may be contacted for further information if you or anyone else desires. Best wishes.

P.S. Unable to create a URL for the picture. Contact me and I can e-mail it to you.
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Old 12-03-2018, 07:15 AM   #20
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I finally crawled under the RV and took a good look at the tanks. GW is only about 6" tall and long and wide. There is only about 1.25" height between the sensors, which are on one end, so clearly they would only be accurate when the MH is perfectly level. Also not a lot of head pressure to push stuff out of the tank.
Our method of control is to operate off the FW tanks and dump GW anytime we fill with FW. (Usually every 3-4 days).
I have noticed that the readings on the tanks vary with whether plugged into shore power or operating off battery power alone. The readings when on battery alone appear to be more accurate.
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Old 12-04-2018, 10:32 AM   #21
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Team Foxy,

Mine is the same shape, with sensors fairly close together. Still, when it is working, it works very well to tell us when to dump.

UPDATE: I didn't need to disassemble the pipes and get a pressure washer wand in the tank this time. Using just a garden hose and very small nozzle, snaked it into the tank from the dump valve, sprayed around a little, and it all started working well again. This was all pretty easy to do.
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Old 12-05-2018, 10:39 PM   #22
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danhannah,

Thanks for the tips. I've wondered if that might be necessary. If I understand your process correctly, how do you control the water exiting the tank? It sounds like the drain hose would not be connected?

Thanks again.

Fred
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Old 12-05-2018, 10:48 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeC View Post
Have you tried any enzyme cleaners? Happy Campers comes to mind, available on Amazon. Otherwise, forget using the original tank monitor and upgrade to See Level tank sensors. I did earlier this year and unknown tank levels are a thing of the past. Installed properly, you can tell within a gallon or two what's in the tank and the LPG tank monitor is crazy accurate compared to the original. Yes, it is a bit of effort to install but it uses the original wiring. In my case, the water pump "On" LED and "Pilot Out" LED had to be rewired as they are powered by the original logic board which was removed. It's a bit un-nerving to cut the wiring harness and rewire to the new panel and I left enough wire on it to be reconnected if desired. I chose to remove the original faceplate and cut a hole in it to accommodate the new monitor panel; again a bit un-nerving. I am quite handy with electrical stuff and tools in general and knew it was not beyond my capabilities. I'll try to attach a photo of the finished panel and I may be contacted for further information if you or anyone else desires. Best wishes.

P.S. Unable to create a URL for the picture. Contact me and I can e-mail it to you.

JoeC,

That sounds like a great upgrade, but unfortunately I don't think I'm as handy as you on electrical issues. I really thought that with the tank readers being on the outside of the tanks on this MH, we wouldn't have sensor problems any longer. Pretty bummed, but I'll get something figured out with all of the great tips from everyone on this site.

Thanks for the help!

Fred
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Old 12-06-2018, 11:38 AM   #24
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danhannah,

Thanks for the tips. I've wondered if that might be necessary. If I understand your process correctly, how do you control the water exiting the tank? It sounds like the drain hose would not be connected?

Thanks again.

Fred
Yes, Fred, sewer hose was not connected, had to be left off to snake the garden hose up. The waste gray water then flows out round the garden hose, into the compartment, and onto the driveway. I do it in the driveway, then clean the driveway (and the compartment) with the same garden hose.

It's not too big of a mess.
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Old 12-07-2018, 10:18 PM   #25
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Yes, Fred, sewer hose was not connected, had to be left off to snake the garden hose up. The waste gray water then flows out round the garden hose, into the compartment, and onto the driveway. I do it in the driveway, then clean the driveway (and the compartment) with the same garden hose.

It's not too big of a mess.
Well, we sold our driveway last year and started fulltiming, so I don't think we have that option. However, I recall seeing a Rhino fitting that connects to the drain outlet and on the top it has a hose connection. I doubt you could get enough pressure from there to really clean the tank, but maybe a smaller hose could be sent up through it. I imagine that would catch most of the wash out. I think I'll explore that. Thanks for giving me that thought!

It would be great if the manufacturers would provide a washout connection like they do on the black tanks.

Thanks again,

Fred
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Old 12-08-2018, 01:20 AM   #26
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Well, we sold our driveway last year and started fulltiming, so I don't think we have that option. However, I recall seeing a Rhino fitting that connects to the drain outlet and on the top it has a hose connection. I doubt you could get enough pressure from there to really clean the tank, but maybe a smaller hose could be sent up through it. I imagine that would catch most of the wash out. I think I'll explore that. Thanks for giving me that thought!

It would be great if the manufacturers would provide a washout connection like they do on the black tanks.

Thanks again,

Fred
I have a 27Q and I bought one of those fittings with the hose connection but soon discovered there's a 90 degree turn between the black tank and the discharge fitting. that greatly reduces the water flow from the hose so much as to make it pretty ineffective for back flushing the back water tank. If you haven't done so already, it might best to shinny under the rig to see how the piping runs. I should have done that.
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Old 12-09-2018, 10:21 PM   #27
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akeagle,

Thanks for the insight. I was hoping that fitting might be the solution. I guess anything short of what danhannah suggests is an experiment.

Thanks for your input,

Fred

BTW.... I hope you weren't adversely affected by that quake!
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Old 12-10-2018, 12:46 AM   #28
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No house damage, just lots to pick up from walls and shelves.
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