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Old 08-10-2014, 02:19 PM   #1
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Sewer Hook Up Access Hole Too Small???

Hi all,
I'm new to this forum and from what I can see so far, it looks like an excellent place to come to for ideas / advice. I purchased a new 2014 Winnebago Vista 27N a few months ago and have a question concerning the sewer hook up. The vista has a "closet" with the access hole in the bottom of the compartment. The problem I'm having is that I am not able to fit a standard 4 inch hose (with bayonet connector) through the cutout. There is a black "spinning" cover that snugs up around the hose to close up any holes. The cutout in that piece is fine. But the one in the floor of the compartment is the one that's the problem. I'll try to attach a few pictures to see if that helps explain. Thanks!!

EDIT: I thought about just taking a dremel tool and routing out the white part of the cabinet, but there's actually a "lip" on the white plastic part. If I trim it out, the panel might become weakened in that area, or maybe it will not seal well. What do you think?
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Old 08-10-2014, 02:33 PM   #2
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Many styles of 'stinky slinky' have removable fittings. You could take a short piece of hose and put ends on it to extend a 'permanent' section out through the opening in the compartment. Keep a cap on the part hanging out and when dumping attach your slinky to the section coming out the bottom. Others have used a clear extension pipe to do the same thing, hook it on and let it extend out to hook up the slinky. I've read some people just cut out the small opening and install a kayak hatch in the floor of the compartment, allowing plenty of space for the hose and fitting.
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Old 08-10-2014, 04:40 PM   #3
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In my case, there were 4 nubs on the hose connector. I removed two and, while I have to work at it a bit, can get the connector and hose through the slot. It is actually good to have as snug a fit as possible, so no "critters" can make it into the compartment. Keep working at it! :-)


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Old 08-10-2014, 04:53 PM   #4
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Thanks so much for the great ideas!
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Old 08-10-2014, 04:57 PM   #5
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There are many clear plastic extentions that will fit through the hole. You may have to use 2 hose sections but it will work. Take a trip to the RV Supply store. You'll find what you need.
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Old 08-10-2014, 04:59 PM   #6
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What I did on my Journey was to take out the spinning black plate, I then got 2 large white cutting boards from Walmart, stacked them and cut them to fit the hole the black plate set in. I then cut a hole in the cutting boards and installed a twist off deck plate big enough to let the hose that I bought fit through. The only issue I have is the hole has some space around the hose since it's smaller than the coupler and I need to figure out a way to seal it. For now I stick a rag in it. It looks nice and clean and I was happy with the results

I forgot to mention I did have to trim back the opening some in the floor of the compartment.


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Old 08-10-2014, 05:13 PM   #7
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TJ311, I would trim out some of the lip in the area of the arrows and insert the bayonet connector at a angle. Looks like it just needs a little.
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Old 08-10-2014, 05:14 PM   #8
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Wink FIlling Voids around hose...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelm130 View Post
What I did on my Journey was to take out the spinning black plate, I then got 2 large white cutting boards from Walmart, stacked them and cut them to fit the hole the black plate set in. I then cut a hole in the cutting boards and installed a twist off deck plate big enough to let the hose that I bought fit through. The only issue I have is the hole has some space around the hose since it's smaller than the coupler and I need to figure out a way to seal it. For now I stick a rag in it. It looks nice and clean and I was happy with the results

I forgot to mention I did have to trim back the opening some in the floor of the compartment.


5" Twist Out Boat Deck Plate
I read or saw a youtube video, I think it may have been an RV Geeks video, That you can use 0000 steel wool to fill gaps around hoses to keep mice and other critters out of your basement areas.

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Old 08-10-2014, 05:17 PM   #9
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That looks like the plate with the hole should come out... But

Using a 5 or 10 inch clear extension stick the small end through the hole and hook to hose,, UNDER the bay (Use elbow if needed). Best solution.

PLUS that way you can VISUALLY verify tank has finished draining.. Now, I can not tell you a personal story... But I got the idea of starting with a clear section from someone who ended his post with "Do not ask me" so you can imagine his story.
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Old 08-10-2014, 06:12 PM   #10
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I have the Itasca Sunstar 27N, identical to yours and use the Rhino-Flex sewer kit. The coupler unscrews from the sewer hose, take the coupler off put the hose through the hole then put the coupler back on. Only takes a few seconds each time you connect or disconnect the hose. Got mine at Camping World.
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Old 08-10-2014, 09:03 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
That looks like the plate with the hole should come out... But

Using a 5 or 10 inch clear extension stick the small end through the hole and hook to hose,, UNDER the bay (Use elbow if needed). Best solution.

PLUS that way you can VISUALLY verify tank has finished draining.. Now, I can not tell you a personal story... But I got the idea of starting with a clear section from someone who ended his post with "Do not ask me" so you can imagine his story.
I tried that but on my 2000 Suncruiser, the hole is not lined up under the valve and an extension didn't help. I'm able to wiggle the hose thru thr hole but have a lot of trouble making the connection/ I have the brown/orange Rhino hose.

Looking at the Thetford premium with bayonet connectins
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Old 08-10-2014, 09:14 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romer1 View Post
I tried that but on my 2000 Suncruiser, the hole is not lined up under the valve and an extension didn't help. I'm able to wiggle the hose thru thr hole but have a lot of trouble making the connection/ I have the brown/orange Rhino hose.

Looking at the Thetford premium with bayonet connectins
That's why I suggested the short section of slinky with fittings on each end and a cap underneath. The flexible nature of the slinky takes care of any mis-alignment of dump valve and opening. Just leave that section in place and hook up slinky to the 'stub' to dump.
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Old 08-11-2014, 12:16 AM   #13
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The only problem with that on the newer models is that the electrical cord and water hose go through the same opening, and you can't get the electrical cord through the opening with the sewer hose already filling the space. As a result, you can't leave the server hose in place all the time, and instead would have to remove it from the opening every time you wanted to pull the electrical cord through...a catch 22...anyway, that was my experience with the 26HE (2013). I opted to figure out a way to get the rhino sewer hose though the opening. Hope you find a solution that works well for you!


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Old 08-11-2014, 12:19 AM   #14
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I should have noted that once the electrical cord and water hose are in place, the sewer hose fits through the middle opening fine...it's just that the plug in the electrical cord needs to use the wider part of the opening, as the side of the opening it belongs in is too narrow for the plug end to fit through if the sewer hose is already in place.


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Old 08-11-2014, 05:19 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOMFEN View Post
TJ311
I have the Itasca Sunstar 27N, identical to yours and use the Rhino-Flex sewer kit. The coupler unscrews from the sewer hose, take the coupler off put the hose through the hole then put the coupler back on. Only takes a few seconds each time you connect or disconnect the hose. Got mine at Camping World.
Tom
Thanks Tom. This is the exact hose set up (Rhino-Flex) I ended up buying. And yes, I have to take the sewer coupler off and push the entire hose through the cutout. What I don't like, is having to pull the hose back through the access hole after I've used it. It has been flushed, but I still don't like dragging the dripping dirty hose through the compartment. Would be so much easier / cleaner to just unhook the bayonet side from the RV and let it drop through the access hole. Then it can be cleaned thoroughly and stored.
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:23 AM   #16
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I like the "Quick-Port" setup on my Adventurer. I didn't know they didn't use it on the Vista/Sunstar.

If you weren't aware, here is what it is:


A retrofit may or may not be possible (sewer compartment isn't a baggage type door?) maybe something to think about.
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:31 AM   #17
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Quote:
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I like the "Quick-Port" setup on my Adventurer. I didn't know they didn't use it on the Vista/Sunstar.

If you weren't aware, here is what it is:


A retrofit may or may not be possible (sewer compartment isn't a baggage type door?) maybe something to think about.
Now that's a nice setup. No pull through at all. I like it. Nope... the Vista has the hole through the bottom of the cabinet.
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Old 08-11-2014, 05:46 PM   #18
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I had the same problem on my 2013 sunstar. I filed out the openning so i could get it in and out with a problem.
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Old 08-11-2014, 05:56 PM   #19
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I have a 2014 Vista 30T and have the same problem; however, I found that by tilting the hose and turning it around to find the right angle, it will go through the hole without making any modifications. I use a Rhinoflex sewer hose. Don't get me wrong, it is a very tight fit, but it will go through!
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Old 08-11-2014, 08:06 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJ311 View Post
Hi all,
I'm new to this forum and from what I can see so far, it looks like an excellent place to come to for ideas / advice. I purchased a new 2014 Winnebago Vista 27N a few months ago and have a question concerning the sewer hook up. The vista has a "closet" with the access hole in the bottom of the compartment. The problem I'm having is that I am not able to fit a standard 4 inch hose (with bayonet connector) through the cutout. There is a black "spinning" cover that snugs up around the hose to close up any holes. The cutout in that piece is fine. But the one in the floor of the compartment is the one that's the problem. I'll try to attach a few pictures to see if that helps explain. Thanks!!

EDIT: I thought about just taking a dremel tool and routing out the white part of the cabinet, but there's actually a "lip" on the white plastic part. If I trim it out, the panel might become weakened in that area, or maybe it will not seal well. What do you think?


Don't trim the lip on the plastic floor. You're right in that it does provide strength to the floor. The better suggestion is from Saber77. If you tilt the fitting as you pass it through the opening it will fit. We had the same port and used the same hose on our 2001 Adventurer. After a couple tries it becomes second nature.
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