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Old 09-14-2011, 05:07 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoMoreAZ View Post
Regarding the red lamp burning out... The lamp burns out because Winne is applying too much voltage to the lamp. If your batteries are charged as they should be, there is approx. 13.3 to 13.5 VDC on the lamp. The lamp will burn your finger when you touch it when it is on and will burn out.

The fix is... I added a garden variety silicon diode in series with the +12 VDC lead before the lamp. Works great, drops .7 VDC so the lamp does not get hot or burn out because the voltage to it is to high. I did this fix after Forest City changed the switch/bulb once and I changed it once. Switch/bulb #3 has lasted > 2 yrs now.
NoMoreAZ,
My kind-a fix partner. As a side note, in my GL 1500 Honda Goldwing, all the handlebar switches and controls were back lit. But, when I purchased the bike with 145,000 miles on it, all of them were burnt out. So, doing some investigation, I found that not only all the bulbs (very tiny "Wheat bulbs) were burnt out but, all the housing areas where the bulbs are, are burnt too.

So, I kind of did what you did, I adapted some 3mm LEDs to the applications in all the positions. Long story short, it turned out way better than replacing them with factory bulbs, which would have cost a lot more anyway. Now, no heat, less electrical need, and a way cooler look. So, I might just investigate the same kind of fix, unless I can find the same deal Chris found, at $3.00 per switch.
Scott
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:28 PM   #22
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Actually, that was $3 for a PAIR of switches! It's probably more today...

Adding a diode sounds like a good idea.
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:29 AM   #23
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My Class C had a red light for the electric operation, which I really liked because I knew with a glance that the Electric element was either powered or not. Wasn't a big deal when camping, but it saved me an element more than once when the rig was winterized (water heater drained) and I plugged it in while working. My Adventurer does not have the feature, I wish it did.
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