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Old 04-29-2012, 01:08 PM   #1
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NO hot water pressure need HELP

No hot water pressure, No water coming out the faucet with city water or using the water pump. Can anyone help me?
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Old 04-29-2012, 01:25 PM   #2
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Sounds like someone turned the water off to the water heater. Maybe for winter
storage?
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Old 04-29-2012, 01:33 PM   #3
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I been camping for a week now. been working fine until now.
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Old 04-29-2012, 01:36 PM   #4
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Has anyone messed with the bypass to the tank?
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Old 04-29-2012, 01:54 PM   #5
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The basement have been lock. There is a very very very small stream coming out of the faucet
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Old 04-29-2012, 02:01 PM   #6
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Well there has to be water blockage to the tank or from the tank.
Turn the bypass and see if you get water out the hot water tap. one way
it thru the tank the other is tank taken out of the system.
Check any screens that might be plugged at the taps if they have one.
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Old 04-29-2012, 02:15 PM   #7
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There are basically 3 kinds of bypass. 1 valve, 2 valve and 3 valve.

In the single valve (one valve) system you have a 3 way valve, this is in the cold water line, it either sends water into the heater, or into the bypass line.

In the 2 valve system the 3-way valve is replaced by two single acting valves \

In both cases the bypass line connects to the HOT side with a simple "T" fitting.

Thus the pipes and valves entering the water heater form kind of a letter H, lying on it's side.

IN the 3 valve system there is a cut off valve in the HOT line as well.. SO it looks like this (Again an H on it's side)
-V-T---- Hot
. . V
-V-T---- Cold

Disregard teh periods there as space holders.

The vavle into, and out of (if it exists) the water heater must be open for hot to flow
(The remaingin valve, if it exists, is the bypass line)

Now the problem.

Since they do not know when the heater is made which system will be used..... It is common to install a check valve in the outlet.. On the 1 and 2 valve system this is NEEDED. (on the 3 it's not) This valve suffers from mineral build up and eventually sticks closed.

I know one RVer who simply gutted the valve,, Removed the outlet pipe from it, reached in with needle nose pliars and pulled out the "Guts". Worked great.

Others have figured out how to remove the valve, and replace it with a manual valve.
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Old 04-29-2012, 02:23 PM   #8
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According to an RV Engineer (Fleetwood) the check valve on the cold water supply line to the heater is to prevent the heater from circulating the hot water back thru the system. It is considered a common failure item and is available at any Camping World in addition th some RV dealers. The spring that holds the valve in position is fastened very poorly and can fail at any time. When it fails water pressure drops to zero or almost zero depending on where the valve stops.
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Old 04-29-2012, 02:40 PM   #9
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Well, turn the water heater by pass on, I get water from the hot water faucet. Must be a blocked in the heater. I got an Atwood water heater.
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Old 04-29-2012, 02:54 PM   #10
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NITEHAWK is correct. The check valve has failed, thus restricting the flow. Two choices, remove the valve ( at the top of the water heater) and replace it, or if you can't get one soon, just gut it and replace later. The valve is located where the top water line goes into the heater.
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Old 04-29-2012, 04:40 PM   #11
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Is the water fill valve turned to "Normal"?
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Old 04-29-2012, 04:43 PM   #12
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Is the water fill valve turned to "Normal"?
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Old 04-29-2012, 04:49 PM   #13
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All faucets or just one? If it's just one you have something blocking the water line at that faucet. Turn off the water, pull the water line off the affected faucet aim it in a bucket and have someone turn the water back on. If you have water pressure take the valve out of the hot side and clean it.
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Old 04-29-2012, 05:03 PM   #14
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Is the check value and pressure-temperature relief valve the same?
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Old 04-29-2012, 05:04 PM   #15
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Are the winterize valves open at the water heater?
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Old 04-29-2012, 05:24 PM   #16
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All faucets
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Old 04-29-2012, 05:25 PM   #17
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The check valve is NOT the high temp/pressure valve.
It will be on the cold water line as it enters the hot water tank
and may be part of the line the screws into the tank.
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Old 04-30-2012, 09:36 AM   #18
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You need to go to the back of the Water Heater, where all the pipes go in and come out. The cold goes in the bottom, hot out the top. Look where the cold water supply goes into the heater, you'll see a big bushing just before entering the heater, this should be the Check Valve. UnScrew it, if you don't have a new one, just gut it and put it back together.
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Old 04-30-2012, 09:41 PM   #19
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Update
I got hot water now, replaced the check value.
Thank you everyone
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Old 06-17-2012, 02:05 PM   #20
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no hot water

(2009 Tour) I had exactly the same problem, yesterday the hot water went away with almost all the pressure. I followed the instructions in this thread and found the cold water check valve was stuck in the closed position. Took it out, gutted it, reinstalled and still no pressure. I discovered that there was also a check valve in the hot side and it had also failed, retainer was gone and the spring was laying loose in the check valve.

Anybody have an answer for why they would put a check valve in the hot side? It sure worked, it kept the hot water from getting out. :-((

Thanks, Bill Barton
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