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Old 01-17-2014, 11:19 AM   #1
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Need Help Installing Water Valve In Shower

DW wants the valve replaced in the shower (and she's right) because setting water temp almost impossible. Removed knob and trim plate, have found a black plastic plate between me and the three pipe connections ...question... has anyone else run into this? Can I just cut it up to remove it in order to get at the pipe fittings?

Any help is appreciated.

Jim
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Old 01-17-2014, 12:16 PM   #2
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DW wants the valve replaced in the shower (and she's right) because setting water temp almost impossible. Removed knob and trim plate, have found a black plastic plate between me and the three pipe connections ...question... has anyone else run into this? Can I just cut it up to remove it in order to get at the pipe fittings?

Any help is appreciated.

Jim
Can you post a picture of it? On mine you can get to the back of it by taking the OnePlace down.
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Old 01-17-2014, 01:20 PM   #3
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Check on the other side of the wall the shower fixture is mounted. There's often an access panel to remove and reinstall shower fixture. It might be hidden in a closet or cabinet. Unless the cover plate in the shower is big enough, they often can't be R & R through the shower stall opening.
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Old 01-17-2014, 03:16 PM   #4
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Is it possible that a new "kit" for the existing valve will solve the problem without a total replacement of the valve?

That would be my first attempt to solve the problem.
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Old 01-17-2014, 08:22 PM   #5
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If it is a Phoenix, call them for a repair kit. When installing, be sure to use plumbers grease and you will have a like new valve.
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Old 01-18-2014, 02:49 PM   #6
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That Shower Valve

Hey Guys, Should have posted a picture when I started this link. There is no possible access to the back of the shower stall. The only way to fix this is from inside the shower itself. As you can see in the picture, there is a black plastic piece behind the shower wall and between the wall and the valve itself. The machine screws that go through the valve trim piece and into the valve pass through the plastic piece, so I think it's just a spacer designed to hold the valve away from the back of the shower wall. On the plastic is embossed "Remove before installing valve" and then "Remove unless thin wall installation". I guess it was left on because this would be considered a thin wall installation. Got any ideas? I'm getting ready to just cut it out and deal with the consequences.

Thanks for your help....

Jim
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Old 01-18-2014, 03:00 PM   #7
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Take the guts out of the faucet and see if you can slip the black backing plate over the faucet head?

The brass nut lever and a brass sleeve will slide off.

Channel locks and a wash rag will keep from scratching it up.. Or as suggested simply get a new washer kit for it....

Some shower faucets have scald guards or temperature control features, which raise or lower the overall temperature the faucet delivers. If you lack hot water in just the shower, take off the handle to the faucet by removing the set screw and pulling it off. Look for a round dial on the end of the faucet, right under the handle. Adjust the dial to increase the temperature of the faucet. Adjusting the dial allows more hot water to pass through the cartridge in the faucet and therefore will increase the total overall temperature of that particular shower


http://www.ehow.com/how_6217183_fix-...hot-water.html
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Old 01-18-2014, 03:04 PM   #8
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That looks just like ours in a 2003 Journey. The water temp was either hot or cold. Couldn't adjust it to warm. I think I ended up just breaking the plastic piece out since I planned on replacing the whole valve with a modern easy turn type handle. I bought the shower valve at Home Depot and had a RV shop put it in. Much better than the joy stick style.
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Old 01-18-2014, 04:39 PM   #9
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It looks like mixing valves I've worked on before. Remove the brass retainer cap and remove the white plastic guts/cartridge. Inside you should find two rubber boots with springs under them. Springs will be wider at one end than the other, take note. Take old boots and springs to the hardware store to match them to the new replacements. Use plumbers grease on new boots and re-assemble with the new springs. Be careful, the white guts or cartridge should have two tabs on it on either side, one wider then the other. Make sure to have the tabs on the correct sides. Tighten everything down and you should be good to go.
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Old 01-18-2014, 04:47 PM   #10
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Forgot to mention that when you disassemble you'll find that post that the handle attaches to has a ball on the end of it. It can also be replaced. Good luck.
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Old 01-18-2014, 04:54 PM   #11
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The stem that your handle attaches to has a ball on the other end. It should also be replaced. As advised previously, they do come in kit form.
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:17 PM   #12
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I think if you take the brass retaining ring off you'll find a second ring that also unscrews. This should allow the rod with the block on it and the interior ball out and also releases the faucet 'body' from the black plastic face plate. At this point you can either go to a plumbing supply and replace the two rubber valve seats, springs, and rod and ball, OR, with that second ring unscrewed, the valve body should be able to get pushed back to allow the black face plate to be removed out the hole. Then you could replace the whole faucet. You might need to use 'shark bite' fittings to reconnect the new faucet, or maybe you'll be lucky and find threaded fittings you can unscrew. Use teflon tape on new threads and be sure it doesn't leak, in that un accessible cavity a leak could happen for a long time before discovery! By the way, it will require 2 or more trips to the hardware store to complete this repair, more if you haven't bought the new faucet yet!
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Old 01-18-2014, 09:30 PM   #13
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Just be mindfull that replacing the valve may do little to correct the problem that you are trying to resolve as many times it is the spring loaded one way flow valves in the water heater lines that restrict flow when a faucet is only cracked open slightly and won't open more fully until the pressure in the line between them and the faucett has gone down allowing them to open more fully but then you get too much hot water and have to turn it down starting the cycle over again. Not that big a deal at the kitchen sink but a bit of a pain in the shower.
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Old 01-28-2014, 03:37 PM   #14
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This is why you buy a Winnebago

Yes I know, the windshields leak...but I took the advice offered and looked for a rebuilding kit after I took the guts out of the valve. No one could help me...not Home Depot, Lowes, plumbing warehouses, no one. So I called Winnebago. They not only told me who made the valve, but told me who made all of the valves in our rig AND gave me their phone numbers. One call to the manufacturer (Phoenix) and $14.00 later I have my new valve kit, I installed it this afternoon, and life is good.

Thank you for all of your suggestions.

Jim
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Old 10-06-2014, 03:40 PM   #15
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Do you have the part numbers?

My 2001 Winnebago Journey has an impossible to set temp in the shower.

mac 'found this thread in a search' gyvr
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Old 10-07-2014, 07:21 AM   #16
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Just be mindfull that replacing the valve may do little to correct the problem that you are trying to resolve as many times it is the spring loaded one way flow valves in the water heater lines that restrict flow when a faucet is only cracked open slightly and won't open more fully until the pressure in the line between them and the faucett has gone down allowing them to open more fully but then you get too much hot water and have to turn it down starting the cycle over again. Not that big a deal at the kitchen sink but a bit of a pain in the shower.
A few years ago I replaced the Phoenix shower valve with a Moen single handle valve in my Journey. Do a IRV2 search "Moen shower valve install". You will get instructions and even the part number of replacement valve. The original Phoenix is junk.
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Old 10-07-2014, 03:14 PM   #17
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Marinelender. Would you please post that number/address? Thanks.
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Old 10-08-2014, 07:34 AM   #18
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I to, do not like the to Hot to Cold water in the shower. It has always been that way.
Not to bad in the summer, but taking shower in the cold and having this stinks.
I wish there was a solution to this delemma?
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Old 10-09-2014, 03:01 PM   #19
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A few years ago I replaced the Phoenix shower valve with a Moen single handle valve in my Journey. Do a IRV2 search "Moen shower valve install". You will get instructions and even the part number of replacement valve. The original Phoenix is junk.
I did a very in-depth search.

Most of the part numbers that I found were discontinued.

If I have to I will pull the existing and go to the plumbing store and find one that works, I was just hoping I could find one that I could buy a head of time.

I'm also going to try to find a shower head with a long hose that I can turn on and off while leaving the water temp set, makes it easier (for my wife) for giving my 2 year old a shower.

mac 'not a plumber...but I'll try anything once' gyvr
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Old 10-09-2014, 09:11 PM   #20
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Do you have the part numbers?

My 2001 Winnebago Journey has an impossible to set temp in the shower.

mac 'found this thread in a search' gyvr
I replaced my shower faucet approximately 4 years ago. I don't know if Moen part # is L82691 is still available. If memory serves me I used a hole saw to drill clearance in the holding bracket for the Moen. The Moen valve had a boss that required about a 1" hole so valve would bolt to mounting bracket. Otherwise install went good. Don't forget to put ties on the hot and cold input pipes so the compression nuts don't fall down to the floor.

Easy to adjust water and it stays at set temp. Good upgrade.
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